TheGreatWhite

Not planning on it either way. I'll find a fix, but I don't think it'll need to fix it cause of it being raised and I couldn't remove it with a magnet so who knows....

A trick they do on 12vs is just take a punch and punch into it around the pin and it'll push material out in front of it so it wouldn't fall out. Also I forgot to note, I tried putting a magnet over it to pull it out and it didn't come out.

I honestly think that's the same thing on both my 99 blocks. Cause there's no way you could get a tab on there and have a flush bolt without chiseling it out. So no need for a tab?

I thought the timing pin housing was raised above the bolt? I didn't look long at it at all but I thought it was higher than the head of the bolt when screwed all the way in.

I saw someone do it on a 12v, not really "cut it" persay but he chiseled a portion out. The bumpy one isnt terrible, i just didn't know which one would be better. Machining the one with hotspots on it would fix it and make it useable?

Definitely subbed

On the 24v that I am building it has a KDP and I was planning on making a little tab to keep that pin in its place, but I was wondering if you had to cut some of the case out to to put the tab in and screw the bolt back in flush or if there was a way to do it without cutting any of the case out. Flywheel question: the flywheel that came off said motor has hot spots on it it appears, being darker blotches here and there. So should I just put that one on there or should I put my old one on that's a little bumpy on the surface where the clutch is applied? Its not terrible by any means but its there. I've heard to not reuse a flywheel that has hotspots but I didn't know if one that was a little bumpy was alright to use. Anything helps, thanks!

I ran to oriellys and got some last night cause I agree, they're extremely handy!

Live and you learn I guess, they'll replace it so no harm no foul, I know never to do that again...

Well I just got off the phone with Marco at Quadzilla and he said the board is fried and to send it in for warranty work. So I'm going to do that

Everything was working fine (in a relative sense) until I pulled the fuse out, then it just didn't want to cooperate anymore so beats me..... Just lost rn on what to do.... I'll try to use the adder and see what happens.

Will the turbo cooldown still work?

Where to even begin.... I've had my iQuad Adrenaline for only 2 months now and I'm fed up with it. This whole ordeal started at installation of the ignition wire. The little hook thing that you're suppose to hook onto the prong of the #9 fuse never worked for me, still doesn't, it doesn't allow the fuse to properly be seated into its spot and easily falls out. So from there I did the best I could and I placed it between the prongs since it fits pretty well between them and it worked and allowed the fuse to sit in its spot nicely. Fast forward to a week ago, driving home, feels like I was working against something since it was a windy day cause it was like big gusts of wind were hitting me and the truck was falling on its face kinda (what it actually was here in a second). Never did it do this again.... until today..... Driving home, does it again except for a longer period of time, about 10 minutes where as before 10 seconds. Hop on the app, "Can't connect to Adrenaline" so I refresh the app and it works, then it starts doing its thing feeling like its shutting the fueling off because the box had actually shut off and it completely disconnects me from the app saying "Lost connection to app." So I run home and start diagnosing the problem, all the power wires are tight, even a guy at Quadzilla told me to check them first, so I do. Everything checks out, when I plug it all back in, dash lights up, airdog kicks on without the keys turned to "on". So i turned the truck on to try and reset the dash thing and go to turn it off and it doesn't turn off, not even if I hit the gas to turn off the turbo cooldown. Pulled #9 fuse, truck shuts off, all is good. Go to plug it back in, same thing. I'm about sick and tired of this, given hardware that doesn't work with a $700 tuner and that hardware could be the cause of the potential box failure, this is ridiculous. Any suggestions are needed badly. I thought about using an add-a-fuse in place of the little fuse "hook" but with a fuse adder in #8 it won't fit (might try flipping it upside down) but wasn't sure if the Turbo Cooldown would still work or not. I need some help ASAP, very disappointed so far with this after only 2 months......

Do you know by any chance the torque spec of the adjustment nut and the bolt that holds down the rocker to the head?

Bout time to reset valve lash and I haven't found anyone's previous post about what they recommend. I am setting the lash for my new stock motor for my 99 at .10 and .20, but is there any recommendations for durations of a motor with 100hp injectors and a quad with wiretap? Anything helps, thank you!

iPhone lovers will shell out $1400 for a brand new one right when it comes out just to say they have the new phone

Least you'll never pay a grand like most people do for a new phone!

You're right I haven't! Beskdes I do t have a phone to tinker with, I just throw mine in a mount and call her good.

Fantastic idea! Didn't know you could set one up to do that!

All my guns in order of purchase. Top to bottom: Lee Enfield No4 Mk2 all numbers matching, all original, graduation and 18 bday present. AR15 I built myself Glock 43 Glock 19 Palmetto State PSAK

Do you have Android or Apple? I have a Pixel 3 and it connects 100% of the time, no problems at all.

Anyway to export the log and look at it on a graph?

I apologise, I was in a hurry and threw down "big injector" when I meant "bigger." I'm running your "mid injector" tunes.

I thought it said it was for 7x.009 as well...? Could have sworn it did.....

I haven't played with that feature but I definitely will, didn't even think to try that...