rogerash0

i just clicked on a sub-section too deep, my fault. A full directory path of where the thread exists would be sweet, if you can see my edited bit in the above post.

i went to that forum then clicked create post and it re-brought up the list of forums to post in and I didnt see the quadzilla section populated on the list. sorry, I figured it went to the wrong section after all.. edit; at the top of this post, the directory tree is listed as: Home > quad v2 wiretap settings so I still cant really tell where this thread was stashed exactly.

After reviewing Nicks video on the quad v2 custom tuning functions, which really should be described in the app so I dont have to reference the video every time, he talks about TPS Pump Minimum and Pump Low Boost Scale PSI controlling when wiretap is applied. I want wiretap to come on at 20% TPS. If I leave Pump Low Boost Scale PSI to 0, will wiretap be left off even when boost is 0psi or greater? ie. whatever setting is set, either boost or TPS %, wiretap wont be turned on until the highest parameter setting has been achieved? A digital light on the dashboard of the app that shows when wiretap is coming on would be really cool. That would clear up any confusion. Also, is the max canbus fuel 4095? Lately the largest numbers I have been seeing in my data logs have been around 2900. Also, is there a reason why Nick doesnt set max pump stretch to 2200 in his extreme tunes? Thats the maximum allowed, but 2000 is the highest Ive seen him input.

I had two HID kits from DDM tuning. Was not a big fan. One died from the slightest mist of water when I blew a tranny line. Where are you getting your 476, and is that an SXE model? 5x13 sounds a bit small for that horse level, doesnt it? I mentioned that level to you and I thought you said Id need atleast 6x13. Also are you going with the GDP fuel pump off the crank?

Im jealous, that sounds like a nice build. P pump or VP? Im most interested in how it drives with those chargers you picked out. The hx35 will be unmodified? Everyone told me not to go T4 on the primary, but isnt your 476/87 a T4? What size injectors are you pairing with it? Are you going for smokeless or how smokey is OK /w u? After putting my II 62mm SXE .70 turbo on, the lowend torque is really up. Driveability is much better, with no more shuttering on TC lockup. And thats with a pretty wicked boost leak from somewhere. I still wish my setup spooled better, thats why Im jealous of the combo you picked out. You did such a good job on the headlights I must say a video would have been cool. I dont think I could trust myself to do a job that well (but anythings possible).

Ya five r are a shop of poorly paid young men working hard for the big man. Nothing to write home about. The big boss doesn't know how to align trucks either. Based on this photo, I see what you guys (or someone) was saying about the stock ear of the frame/track bar being what's cracked.

Looks like this BD third gen track bar conversion bracket has cracked pretty good after just two years of me driving on the road. I contacted them and they say it doesn't look like their bracket & to send more pics, so I did. This was installed by Five R Trucks in Colorado Springs, CO after my track bar bit the dust in a pot hole the wife managed to run through. That's when I really learned about these good ol dodges.

My injectors are brand new from F1 Diesel and put my old ones, and new DDP's to shame.

I've got a ticking now too, me thinks it's the belt tensioner. A friend with a Cummins lost two belts; replacing his tensioner fixed it. I have not lost a belt, yet.

Btw I meant to report with 100% certainty that when I drop into gear and the truck dies the rpms do not raise at all prior to stall. Also here's my timing/stats on a cold start.

Ya I figured that was the case :/ sorry man, hope she quits weeping

Sounds like u should make your own thread. I would think a sensor is cranky if your seeing that much variation of timing at idle. I went thru and replaced em all with Wells sensors , made in the USA from AutoZone. Their documentary of their apps sensor on YouTube made me a fan. I heard the T seals were pricey, that's why I asked. I'm surprised 1/4" line worked. On the leaky #2, do u torque it to spec or make it tight/hella tight? I am a fan of always using new orings. I'd be curious to hear if they fix your problem. I even bought new connector tubes a second time after having bought new ones originally... And of course they were the same. Ddp originally then bd for cheaper. I had the same problem. Did the same thing, sanding it down. Overall found it critical to snug the line first then do injector then finish snugging.

I rly thought I did my valve lash spot on the first time so I never thought it was the problem but after the second go around all of a sudden no hard start. Where did you get your rubber seals for that T and what did u pay? They are the only thing I haven't replaced... But mine are ok for now. But I need to do em. For #2 still leaking loosen all blue line clamps and loosen injector hold downs. Loosen line, wiggle injector with a wrench in the top of it as u snug the line good. Tighten injector hold downs. Tighten line rest of the way . Then do the blue line clamps. In all seriousness I bet u already knew that .

Mine had the same symptoms u describe and I was chasing it for awhile but. I think it was from me doing a bad valve lash job my first time. It ran fine when warm, basically what u said to a T minus I never put it on a hill. I also wanna say it started better with the drive pressure leak fixed, but I may be getting that and the valves mixed up in my head. I fixed both problems back to back.

Do we know for a fact that the vp44 spits out more fuel when you send it command rates above 3600? We know the message will goto the vp44 computer, but do we understand what exactly it does with that msg/numerical command? In my mind I'm picturing beakers and cc'ing each injector line. Thanks for the answers. I liked all 3; short, long & vendor's.

If duration is Max at 120% why can it go above that? It's not that I don't believe you, I'm just curious before I set my Max to 120 and retailer the smoothness of the fueling from bottom to top.

If I knew of those time cycles in the first place that would have been good. Im expecting it to be fast, so if I know that it should take that long, I'll probably get less frustrated and mess with it less. Often times when your explicitly waiting on something, staring at it, 30-45 seconds can feel like two minutes. I typically dont mess with it, and agree the less u mess the better it works, but sometimes Im several minutes down the road trying to drive and its still not working. Thx for the advice

Got it, thx. I downloaded that awhile back and got lost as to where it belonged & didnt end up doing anything with the file. I know now that .apk files are apps for the phone. thx

Why not pirate MS Office like the rest of the world? That's clearly not your taste, so its a dead end road to suggest that probably, but the load times of the open source stuff turned me off of it quickly. Also I just downloaded NTLite to combine NVMe drivers into a Windows 7 installation ISO and Im pretty shocked, its free for home use and has a very slick easy to follow GUI. You can definitely customize your Windows xx ISO to include all the drivers and software you need. It even has a screen to execute files after installation. It's definitely worth checking out. It even has a fancy page showing your current Hardware Profile to ID all the missing/not missing drivers between your hardware & what's loaded into the Windows image. Also Rufus will make you a "Windows to Go" USB installation.

Theres no beta app in the play store and I've loaded the beta 2.7 from the downloads here.. that's what had me messing around with that batch file the other day; i wasnt tinkering for no reason

I updated to the custom beta to see this progress bar, and I changed from 2.5 to 2.7 Quadzilla only and ofcourse I still dont see it. Seems to connect about the same still. What am I meant to be on to make this progress bar show up? ( simple things like this start to drive me mad, luckily I move on with life..)

Moparman get a cheap hdd and have a windows partition on it? If you dont feel like pie'ing up your current drive. That excel spreadsheet made me the best daily tune I've had yet. It's not dailed but it was so damn close out of the gate I havnt bothered with it hardly. Carby: Thanks for mentioning - Decreasing timing in the lower RPMs will help to spool the turbo ( do this through timing reduction not timing sliders) I havnt been pulling timing through timing reduction. I always pull it down 1-3pts because my truck likes less, and I like less smoke off the bottom end.

It actually happened yesterday morning despite my best intentions not to stall my truck. I had it plugged in overnight, I have the grid heater and all that but it doesnt cycle when plugged in. It may have been 28 or 32 degrees outside. I throw it in reverse, & the rpms drop lock a rock and the truck dies perceivably instantaneously. I restarted it, and dropped it into 1 instead of reverse. It took 1, then I go into reverse, and off I go without stalling. I'll watch the tach extra carefully next time and drop it into R just to see for ya. Im sure your right, when I spoke to his wife on the phone she said they are slightly smaller than 7x0.011 but its not about the nozzle size as much as it is about how it flows & the shape of the holes. I quote.

Don's f1 220hp injectors in my truck with a 2-300rpm lower than stock stall converter (see firepunks site) will stall my truck when put into reverse when cold. I throw it into first, then reverse, and it won't stall. Typically just needs to do that once unless it's real, real cold.

Ya its interesting stuff, I had a 5th + 6th grade teacher who taught us how to count in base 2 to 10. I'd like to know more about it, like what you mentioned above. Kind of an inperson topic tho. I often wonder why we dont / wish we did have an mirc channel for the frequents of this board. That was kinda neat back in the day /w the Techspot(.com) fellows. (and other underground warez peoples, back before p2p when hacking corporate ftps was a real thing) I did some wep encryption packet sniffing with aircrack-ng and got the passwords in hex I believe it was. I wanted to convert them to plaintext but never figured out how, because windows would take the hex & accept it to connect.