CAMG3X

Have drove the truck for ~800 miles so far and it still hasn't leaked yet. Just keeping a close eye on it and haven't had to use any stop leak yet. Will see, not sure how it would just stop like that. Coolant levels are staying fine

Is the bars leak safe on heater cores and radiators. I'll keep checking on mine, but seems to be not leaking currently. Need to clean it up again to be sure. Can see how that area is a weak point. Oddly mine looks to be coming from the front driver stud area, maybe from the nearest water jacket somehow. I happened to order new axle joints and ball joints before all this, so will probably attempt to get them out of the way first while the gasket is holding

Can't say if it is the original gasket. I'm the 3rd owner and it still had stock head bolts when I got it 60k/5yrs ago, but Update : I let the truck sit for 5 days or so and then took it on a couple 80 mile round trips, one with a ton of gravel in the bed. At this point it has stopped leaking, at least to the ground. Radiator level appears to be full still, will check it in the morning again. Could be evaporating. Has me scratching my head since I definitely ran it harder the last few days. I'm guessing it will leak again

Must have been you that did the write up! Remember seeing something about Ford seals on here quite a while ago. I've thought about upgrading springs and push rods, but that might be later. Still running the Hx35 with no exhaust brake. Plan to go to maybe a 62/68/12 when the hx bites the dust. It's my DD and hauls firewood when I can. Does what I need currently and then some!

Oh, good call on the valve seal upgrade. Are they the Ford style or newer cummins style? Ya, mines dripping fairly good. A drop every 5 seconds I'd guess. Who knows how much while driving. Like I said maybe a cup per hr with how much I have to fill it. Need to look up a good machine shop in Missoula, MT for the task.

Sounds good, I'll stick with stock. Wish I knew why it let go, was still running low timing from my winter tune on the Quad and she has it pretty easy lately. Must have just been her time ha. Dang, that's pretty smooth progress for 2hrs! Whenever someone gives their time to get something done I usually double it for myself haha. Took me all day to do studs, injectors, and valve lash. Need to get my hands on an engine hoist before getting going

Sweet deal! Ya no oil in coolant or overheating going on. Just leaking a cup per hr of driving I'd say. Definitely want to do the job myself. I changed my coolant and thermostat in 2017 and now again a few weeks ago. Probably 50k miles between. Who knows how long it went unchanged by the previous owner. I know it had stock head bolts and a chip at one point. Is Oringing the head worth it? Leaning on machining the head with stock gasket and new valve seals.

Well, been looking over the truck the last week. Originally had, what I thought to be, a bad water pump. Looked to be leaking out weep hole due to coolant seeping along the timing cover below it. Replaced the pump and all was well for a couple days. After a 4hr trip I found a small coolant puddle. Started tracing it and found the source at front-middle of the head. Leaks down behind the fan housing and follows the timing cover under the water pump. Warmed up the truck and when I squeeze the upper radiator hose small bubbles emerge from the head in the area pictured. Will start tackling the head in the next couple weeks. Surprised it blew with arp studs in place at 135lbs... Is this a common area for it to go and is there a water jacket behind there? Could the new pump have had anything to do with it? My first time ever having to do a head so I'm sure I'll have plenty questions along the way.

I just ran into similar misfortune. Thought I had a water pump leak, changed it out and took a 4hr road trip. Got home and all was well till 2 days later saw a coolant puddle on the floor. Thought it would be the pump again, but traced it back to the front of the head middle /drivers side. Will be doing a head change as well in a couple weeks when I can snag some time. I'll post a thread on it.

I'm wondering if that's the cause of my high idle as well. I installed a wells apps last year and it has idled around 860rpms ever since. Checked the voltage at 0.56v when I installed, but I probably should check it again. DAP injectors only have 15k miles on them, so was hard to believe that they would loose pop that fast. Engine load jumps around from 2-6% at warm idle.

I'm guessing it's fueling hand off from ecm to quadzilla fueling at idle state. Perhaps others can come in, but when I switched over to large injectors my truck would almost have a low lope when depressing the clutch to get going. Messed with the fuel tuning a bit down low and it seems to have helped with hand off

Haven't received the parts yet, guessing by the end of this week or early next. Excited to get it put together, heard the thuren coil/shock combo works wonders. Doubt the shocks will do much for the rear, plan to do leafs later once I save some more cash. Lil nervous too since it's my daily driver, probably one of the bigger projects I've done on it.

Good call! The set from metalcloak is designed for years 2000-2002, but I'll double check when they come in. Would hate to get into it and have my DD down for a week waiting for parts

Ya I made the mistake of trying to suck them out with a small hose before blowing them out with air. Got some in my mouth, definitely not antifreeze lol

I had the same condensation like liquid in a few of the stud holes. Want to say at least 4 of them had about that same volume.

I've put in an order for the parts : Thuren 2" soft coils, 4 Thuren fox 2.0 IFP's, metalcloak control arms, Maxx extended sway bar links, and SSI adjustable track bar and bracket. What would be the best order of operations for this install? Was thinking of taking out the track bar and sway bar first to relieve the axle. Then tackle the control arms with the frame jacked up followed by coils and shocks. What are your thoughts? Will probably run to the dealership to get control arm and cam hardware in case I need to cut the bolts, heard it can be a pain Thanks!

Ya mine is about 3" of rake, especially with the ranch guard on. I mainly would like to get a little more travel and ride quality out of the front. May look into the Carli progressive leafs for the rear down the road, but not wanting to sacrifice load capacity.

I keep fairly cool with proper tuning and 7x012s. Hx35 maxes out pretty quick if not careful. Cruising I get around 700egts at 70-75. Granted I haven't tried towing anything extra heavy. Plan to upgrade turbo at some point, but fairly happy with the current spool and power.

What track bar set up would you recommend? From what I've read I'll need to do something to prevent the axle from being pulled to one side with the lift

Do these rules apply to large injectors like 7x012s? When I first start the truck it's around 10%, but then fluctuates from 2-6 when warm

Ya, think I'll stick with stock leafs for right now. Does pretty well with a hefty load in the back, amazing how much the ride improves with weight. Will do bags if I start towing more. My track bar is due for a change so will go with a 3rd Gen conversion set up, coupled with some 1/2" longer control arms. Think the geometry will be fine with that? Hoping 2-2.5" won't alter much

Looks like that set up works darn well! I generally haul decent sized loads of firewood, might look into an air bag setup. Do bags help the ride in the rear? I'd like to do leafs, but worried about losing capacity. Right now my stock front end bottoms out fairly easily. Mainly looking to get some better travel and ride quality. Guessing the front end will still be around an inch lower than the front with the thuren 2's

My front shocks are worn out and I plan on replacing them with fox 2.0s and was thinking of coupling them with either thuren 2"or 3" coils. Not looking for any crazy lift, just a little more travel. My front end sits 3" lower than the rear and the thuren coils spec to 2.75" vs 3.75". Anyone have experience with those coils with a ranch hand brush guard on the front? Figuring it will take it down an inch Much appreciated

Have thought about doing that if it keeps up. The only debris that I was getting in the valve was rubber shavings left over from the install. Hoping the strainer will catch the rest for now. Really like the whole system. My pressure has stabalized right around 20, lowest I've seen it is 17 getting on it.

I probably have taken the valve out a dozen times now to clean it. When it would get stuck the pressure would drop to around 10psi and climb up to 18 through rpm range. Now I have the strainer in place so not having a problem with things getting stuck