gipperkid

It was definitely .017 to .019. I guess my ECM just died from age. @Mopar1973Man

So I picked up an Innova 3320 since my Craftsman multimeter was too basic. Started the truck cold and the grid heaters were kicking on and off. Both batteries were at 14.24 volts at idle. For AC noise I got intermittent readings of .017 to .019 and then I would get .048 to .051. I'm not sure why the readings would fluctuate. But with those numbers I'm assuming the alternator took out the ECM.

ECM was shipped to ACS yesterday. Got the truck home on the ECM from the 2001. In the meantime will be testing for AC noise and doing the ground mod. I'll report back once my repaired ECM is returned. The OCD in me stamped the case of my ECM with the last four of my VIN to see if I get my ECM back or one that was already repaired.

And in the original W-T write up there is reference to the PCM grounds at the auxiliary battery. In the simplified write-up I did not see mention of the PCM grounds. Are the PCM grounds fine the way they are?

@Mopar1973Man Reading through the ground mod again. Is the ground in the above picture is made from the piece on the passenger side and the splice on the driver side? And where does it ground to? If I overlooked it, sorry in advance.

Yes that would be the same ASI. I will steer clear of them.

Ok, talked to both ACS (Auto Computer Specialist) and AMS (Auto Module Source), both in Florida. Both places basically said the same thing, fill out the repair form, explain the problem, list codes, and 1-3 day turnaround. However Auto Computer Specialist's cost is $249.99 and Auto Module Source is $149.00. Both give a 1-year warranty on the repair. Any reason there should be a price difference? Input on either company? Also I can pick up a used ECM for about $500. I'm leery because once I send mine off that is it; if it get's lost or they claim it can't be repaired.

Man, what is it with these ECMs all of a sudden......

Well that definitely makes since then. I knew had to be a different signal/wiring or something. Well I would at least be able to get my truck home with that ECM. I have been researching ECM rebuilders, and prices are all over the place. Funny thing is I manage a salvage yard and the majority of the ECM rebuilders we sell computers to on a daily basis. www.Autoecu.com is ASI Auto - $298 for repair, $1150 for reman www.store.allcomputerresources.com is All Computer Resources - $849 reman www.fs1inc.com is Flagship One - $899.99 reman (I really don't like this company even when we sell to them) www.autocomputerexchange.com is Auto Computer Exchange (ACE) - $848.50 reman www.automodulesource.com - Auto Module Source (AMS) - $149 repair (These are both the same company out of Davie, FL) www.siaelec.com is SIA Electronics - $128.25 for repair I know all the computers they sell are ones they buy from salvage yards. I suppose it's just who has the least amount of warranty claims. I have dealt with all of the above, but everyone's prices vary. I hear a lot of talk about ACS in Florida.

@Mopar1973Man @Dieselfuture @dripley I had some time last night to troubleshoot. I was also able to get a hold of a Solus Edge scanner. With the current ECM still in the truck I was not able to make any communication with the ECM. The scanner would not connect to the ECM, but would connect to the PCM. I then hot wired the VP and FASS. The engine would start and idle. The engine idled very low and was a bit rough to get started that way. Still had the flashing WTS while running this way. Reconnected the FASS and VP back the harness and no start. I had the ECM from the 01, so I tried it. I left my ECM bolted the the block and just connected the plug to the 01 ECM. A side note, I still had yellow VOID stickers on both the VP and ECM connectors, not sure if that was factory from Cummins for tamper evidence. Also while doing this I disconnected the battery grounds. After connecting the donor ECM and reconnecting the batteries the truck fired right up. The scanner would connect and I could read all the engine data, see the grid heaters kick on and off, engine rpm, etc. The check gauges illuminated and I was not showing oil pressure on the gauge. So I am stumped on that. Would there be something different in an 01 ECM? But nonetheless I think it's best to say my ECM needs rebuilt? I'm not sure what else I could troubleshoot.

Looks good! Hey they only way you are going to learn is to jump in and do it. Prep, prep, prep, is the key to good body work.

Didn't have time to work on the truck last night. But I made a jumper for the FASS relay and a test plug for the VP44.

When I jump the FASS relay should I unplug the FASS connection at the factory LP connection? Not sure if there would be a risk of back feeding voltage into the truck harness.

Glad to see others working to keep these 2nd gen looking good.

Dumb question, how do I hot wire the FASS? Do I need to unplug the FASS harness from the factory LP connection and jump the relay on the FASS harness?

Ok, I just figured since the ECM is not sending the FASS a signal with key-on that it would not run. So once the VP is hot wired, the engine will run and FASS will be on as well?

@dripley Ok, I just didn't want to hurt the IP without a constant fuel pressure. But I suppose since it will just be idling it shouldn't be a problem.

@Hawkez I'm sure the VP44 is on borrowed time. I figured milk it as long as I can. I would probably need to hot wire the IP and FASS, correct? That's just it, I don't see any other faults appearing. Could be the VP44 PSG, The APPS? The overhead console displays CCD when the WTS is flashing. But it's just weird the truck ran for a good 20 minutes after installing in fresh batteries. I just hate grasping at straws. Since ACS seems recommended, I'll put a call in to them.

I'm going to borrow a co-workers Snap-On Solus scanner. It should be able to "see" more than the basic BluePoint scanner I used last night. I swapped batteries one at a time, started with passenger battery first. Not sure if that made a difference. The old batteries still had charge, but dropped when load tested. Being almost 9 years old I'm sure they exceeded there time. I've had the P0216 code for a hwile, I'd say a year at least. Not sure if the P0230 appeared because of the no-start with the flashing WTS.

@Mopar1973Man Ok, so I pulled codes with my basic bluepoint scanner. Did this before swapping batteries. Only codes the scanner was able to pull were P0216 and P0230. Also before swapping batteries I could key on and get the brief second of the lift pump and wait to start until the grid heater kicked off. Swapped batteries, cleaned the terminals, and got the terminals reconnected. Turn the key, and get normal operation of the LP and WTS. Truck starts and runs. Let it run for a good 20 minutes. I get the truck in the garage and I notice I have no throttle when I press the pedal. It comes and goes, then the truck starts to lope and then just shuts down. And now the WTS is flashing again. I couldn't pull any DTCs with the scanner, says unable to connect. And with the key trick I get P1693 and P1694. I didn't have the big scanner just a basic one. Where to go from here....?

I'll try that as a last resort if all other troubleshooting fails.

Will any of the ECMs I listed be fine? It seems that they all share the same ID number regardless of year or trans type. But yes I am just going to go ahead and get a nations alternator and do the W-T ground mod.

I'll report back once I get the scanner on the truck. Hopefully will be able to tonight. Is there something that I possibly missed as far as troubleshooting that you could recommend? I'm throwing two fresh batteries in, cleaning connections, scanning for additional codes.

Well I know I need two new batteries. Is it worth my time trying troubleshoot, or should I just pull the ECM and send it to ACS in Florida?

Even though the truck started twice, of course it only ran for about 10-15 seconds. So with the ECM it's like an old windows computer where it freezes on boot or blue screens? Would I be to swap an ECM from another truck? I have a few ECMs laying around. 2001 w/Auto, ID 3946242 2001 w/Manual, High Output 2000 w/Manual, ID 3946242