Red Rambler

Does anybody have any info or insight on EMF Rebuildable Ball Joints Only the uppers are available and the rebuild kit is $50. They are made in Canada.

I used square U bolts that fit over my receiver and made longer brackets to attach to my aluminum bracket. I tucked it up as high as possible. I used rubber spacers in between my brackets to reduce any vibration.

I finally got my light bar mounted and hooked up. The cold today is brutal and trying to work without my hands going numb from the cold but I can't work with gloves on, gloves make it impossible to use hand tools for the most part. I am happy with the end results, given this is a cheap light bar and the sole purpose is to backup in my driveway.

Lol, yes it sure does. Prep yourself ahead of time for a little bit of wiring by reading the schematic, your ready, and then when the rubber hits the road the wires have already been spliced into by a previous owner. And since we are talking 17 years ago that's highly likely!

You are correct I'm not seeing the 3rd wire either. Glad you confirmed it is a ground, being a black wire that would be my guess. Those wire looms are real fun to attempt to sort through on the truck

Off to rockauto I go! I have had good luck with Raybestos, 1/2 ton truck stuff though.

Yep, and from what I am reading the quality is no longer there with Moog. I guess its a toss of the hat no matter what. The Dana uppers/lowers are looking better and better.

@CTcummins24V @Me78569 sorry to bring up an old thread, but curious about the below upper/lower ball joints from Dennys Driveshafts. How did they, or are they still holding up after a few years? I am in the process of redoing my front end and gathering parts now. Since the Dana upper/lowers are better priced than Moog, it makes me wonder if the quality was any good.

Nice video. Like anything else, you get what you pay for quality wise and lighting is no different. The huge price variance is a big factor that is for certain. Those Rigid lights are nice!

Glad you got that figured out and I concur with you on the light bars. My expectations are a year, year and a 1/2 max, given the harsh conditions they must live in. I have attempted to conceal mine as much as possible. Below is the exact light I purchased for $29. If it lasts 1.5 year I would would be happy.

I ordered mine off of amazon. They are cheap, but I have not had any issues with them. 1 relay for $10 or 5 for $25. Weatherproof Relays

This is how I did mine following Mike's advice. Get a weatherproof relay as well.

Thanks, I completely skipped over the Wiring maps and went to the 01 engine wiring maps instead.

Pardon my ignorance, what is the path to finding the above article.

My light bar I have been working on will be mounted up and above my hitch but below my bumper. I have it wired in on a switch so I can power it on as needed. It's an 18" bar. I am still working on the mounting U bolts. Foggy picture as it was cold and today and had my phone fogged up.

The wire I tapped into was more like 12 AWG. However it had 12 volts, so I know it was the correct wire. None of the wires that ran to the plug were this same wire. It appeared the main 12 was tied into the wires up stream.

Any idea what color the 10 AWG wire is? Edit: red/pink. I found it.

Thanks gamble. That is what I will have to do then. Sorry OP for the hijack.

Thanks Gamble. What adapter did you use at the sender on your tank. I never had an intake pump. I assume the sender has an adapter of some sort at the tank.

That is most likely what I will do. Just run new hose to make it easy. I really like the filters on the outside of the frame rail tucked up high. Thanks for the info.

Gamble, how does your fuel line run? On the fuel boss it utilizes the factory hard line from the fuel tank to right under the driver is where the hard line ends and the rubber hose starts. My question is do you still have the factory hard line or is your rubber hose plumbed from the tank and you don't use the hard line any longer? I want to run a setup like tfaoro does, however the rubber hose is a pretty short run from the hard line to the engine bay. Does anybody have a dual filter setup while using the factory hard line?

I too have the glacier diesel fuel boss. I still use the stock filter housing and fleetguard fuel filters. No issues on my end.

Thanks @gipperkid I purchased my mechanical fuel gauge from diesel manor. I can get a 1/8 npt tap from oreillys. I may already have one, just need to check. I was doing some research on glow shift due to price point but quickly said no due to the negative reviews. Isspro is what I am after. I like how diesel manor says to use small drill bits and step up to a larger bit to keeps the shavings small.

What is the process for adding the probe? Drill and tap the manifold in the rear section? I assume the turbo would need to be removed to catch any metal shavings? Anybody have a suggestion for a gauge?