Red Rambler

I was reading your mod last night before I posted, but am glad I went ahead and posted just for peace of mind. Your mod looks better in my eyes given it solves the issues you listed above. I really dont like the look of oil all over the front of my engine either. I assume the bottle gets full and this is the result, oil spilling all over the front of the engine. I have never emptied it if a person is supposed to, in the 24,000 miles of me owning it. In my mind I was thinking just pure oil and neglected to remember the oil is heavily diluted 128:1, 1 gallon fuel to 1 oz oil, and also atomization. Last night when I was looking through my oil fill cap, I could see the valves working, and your right, it would be such a small window when the valve is open. I have built a few single cylinder race engines for mini bikes and race karts. Often times with more aggressive cams you get valve overlap where the exhaust valve is closing while the intake valve is opening, and both are open at the same time for a period of time. My thoughts were, being 24 valves if there was a way that an exhuast valve would be closing at the same time of an intake valve opening and allowing vapors to escape that way, but I'm thinking not possible as the rush of intake air/fuel mixture would keep the vapors in the cylinder. Basically a scenario of un expelled exhaust gases being left in the combustion chamber with new unburnt fuel/air, so there is no way to push past the valve seal. Just thinking out loud and too much into it lol.

Dang, this is just a terribly messy design. I need to change my radiator fluid anyways, so might as well drain it and pull it. Thanks all for the help.

Alright, I give in. Will be my next mod for sure, only after I get my dual fuel filters added. The stock crankcase breather bottle is a messy design, that is for sure. Not a lot of oil really makes you think it is pouring oil out, such a mess.

My thoughts were using the oil in my fuel, if some escapes past the valve seals, that could possibly be the vapor I am seeing coming from my oil fill cap, but im only at 131,000 miles. But we all know valve seal dry out form old age.

Thanks Michael. I was just unsure if this mod would work as it states you are going up inclines and down ravines, where I am mostly horizontal almost always.

Yes, I watched a few videos and saw one moparman did of normal blowby, and mine is about to that same extent. My oil filler cap does not dance, it just sits in the exact same spot when I take my hand off of it. I do run 1 OZ of oil for 1 gallon of diesel in my fuel. I use the 16OZ containers from Wal-Mart, not sure if that could be a possible attribute as well. At this point that is the exact wording I would use, its is a vapor. It does have the strong odor of oil however. I did read that also and there is a hose that is going from somewhere around my power steering pump to a T on my firewall, the hose is old and to the point that one end is almost dry rotted. I need to replace that hose for sure and make sure it has not came loose.

My truck has the stock crankcase breather bottle. It is making quite the mess and getting oil all over the underside. Got a few questions however as when I am sitting on level ground at a stoplight I see smoke coming from both sides of my truck. I can take my oil fill cap off and smoke comes out of that hole and I see smoke coming from my crankcase breather when I shut my truck off. It appears to be smoke coming from my crankcase breather but I wanted to make sure I possibly don’t have a bigger issue since I am getting smoke coming out of the valve cover oil fill hole. I don’t recall this issue previouslay but have noticed a stronger smell of oil as of lately as well. I don’t get any oil coming out of my valve cover, just smoke. I have been reviewing the crankcase vent mode, however it seems quite a few have done this mod due to steep grades, however I haven’t been on any extreme grades.

I have noticed with our last round of snow, the road crews have been laying down a lot of liquid de-icer, not sure how potent that stuff is on vehicles though. Might be worse than salt.

Those old clips look like wire taps. You will like the ability to see behind yourself upon backing once you get this thing going. My last straw was when I almost backed over my sons bike, because I couldn't see with the stock backup lights. Being in the Desert seems to have left your underside of your truck nice and clean

I think we all agree soldering is best when able to do so. I have the below soldering station and it works awesome. Heats up fast and you can get different tips for it. However, at times I have used butt connectors. Weller Soldering Station

The top link doesn't appear to be 3M on Amazon, however the 2nd link in eBay does appear to be 3M, based on the title. My 3M butt connectors have wire size lettering on them. I would use the Solder n Seal connectors versus the butt connectors if you purchased those, the ones you posted in the other thread about. My butt connectors that are 3M have the below lettering on them.

Oreilly auto parts has both but are Dorman brand. I usually get 3M from eBay. 3M is great quality. 3M Butt connectors Heat Shrink

Glad to hear it. Amazon is a good source.

Is there an alternative to the Donaldson? A different brand that is 3UM?

I have used this stuff to assemble my air compressor black water pipe lines. Happy to say no air leaks. Stays pliable for a long time.

I would get some permatex thread sealant and ditch the tape. As I know the permatex is good with diesel fuel. If over tightened the aluminum or brass tee can crack, check for that also. Permatex diesel safe

Same here. Not sure how I have never seen these before.

No matter what you found a handy wiring connector. I'm sure they work just fine.

They have good ratings. I have never used them but rather have a soldering iron and the roll of wire. I would for sure give those a try. I'm sure the solder is decent and the price point is good enough to give them a shot. 50 piece US of A set 100 piece set $18.49

Whoops LOL, that's what I meant. Male. I couldn't find one of those in the -12 Male.

Here is one piece of what you may need. -12AN 180 Degree fitting I cant find the other end, a -12AN female to 3/4" hose barb, possibly a local hydraulic shop can make that?

I completely agree. The hardest part about ball joints is getting them out via a press or ball joint press. After that it's strictly cleaning and putting the new one in. These can be rebuilt while still in the spindle. I am just unsure about the longevity in between rebuilds.

After looking at that relay, I am pretty sure that is a cheapo. I would get this one. It is a Delphi and made in the USA for a few dollars more. That Amazon picture is deceiving. Delphi USA Made fuse

Yes, I sure did. That looks just like it as well. The way I mounted mine it has a round rubber cushion that is between the light bar and the mounts. So vibrations should be limited, other than typical road bumps that shakes the whole truck. The green arrow below is pointing to the rubber cushion.

Yes, they certainly are. But being rebuildable I thought they might be a good option. I have just never heard of anybody using them until reading on CF.