Red Rambler

I ended up purchasing spicer SPL55-3X from rockauto. Thanks guys for your help with this.

I may be confused on what I am ordering on rock auto. It says front driveshaft at front axle, are they meaning transfer case? edit: I think I see what you are saying now. Some say front axle at wheels. I misunderstood what I was reading. Thanks for clarifying. I ordered these thinking they would work as axle at wheel u joints. It says front drive shaft at front axle, but also says CV at front transfer case.

Thanks sir. Mine look to be a bit rusty after checking yesterday. I fully expect they are not gonna come out without a fight. The first part of the battle looks to be getting the hub removed. What made that part go a little better? I have seen guys using their power steering and an extension/12 point socket but not sure how I feel about doing that? What are your thoughts on the below? Or

I have a issue while turning, feels like the truck is possibly in 4 wheel drive, and it’s definetely in the front end. From what I have read it could possibly be front axle u joints. Since these are not terribly expensive what brand is suggested? Rock auto has quite a few brands.

I went ahead and bought the below bushing to get the job done. Thanks guys.

I am getting a 0-60 boost gauge. Is the below location a good location to put my boost gauge feed? Or is the boost bolt a better setup?

I have the Hankook dynapros and I really like them. I have roughly 30k on them so far, they have worn very well. I rotate every oil change and have white letters out. You will like them, certainly not any road noise either.

You bet, it’s a very accessible location, you will cut the rubber hose and then make a second cut to remove a short section about 1.5” long. Enough to allow diesel to drain down your arm and into your armpit however that will hopefully be your last go at having to mess with the check valve.

The strainer is pre pump (fuel boss). Make sure it’s a strainer and not a filter. The filter will cut down on flow, however the strainer will still allow free flow, but will catch the larger debris. To answer your question it’s before the T that runs up to your stock lift pump, if you have the block mounted lift pump. In the below picture, put your strainer after your hard line, obviously, but before the yellow T.

I have an HY, what is the best avenue to source an HX35W?

Will do. They closed early on Friday before I could call back. Will update next week.

Thanks sir. I might look into ordering the kit from my local dealer.

Does anyone know if my 01 may have came factory with keyless entry? I have purchased the key fobs, however my local mopar dealer says that my 01 didn’t come factory with keyless and I would have to buy an add on through their parts department.

I got home and was able to take the check valve apart and sure enough, debris was the culprit. My only suggestion for the fuel boss would be to purchase the pre pump strainer as a required upgrade. It works flawlessly other than that. Thanks @notlimah and @CTcummins24V for the help.

Thanks much, I am going to try to find one locally for the time being like you got from Geno's, and will order a Earl's plumbing push lock one like below. I have one on my old Chevy truck and the media inside of it replaceable. I'm glad you have confirmed this issue happened to you as well. I think I may have somehow gotten trash in my tank as this is the 2nd time in little over a month. I have been going to the same fill station for a while now..... EDIT: I see that what you posted is a strainer and not a filter, that is probably a better idea and would catch a lot of debris. I think I will follow your lead on that, maybe I can find it locally. Thanks!

No thread sealant or tape as it’s AN on both ends. I park my truck nose up hill most days and it starts fine. I have never had any starting issues. When I put my new gauge in I used threat sealant in between my filter canister and injection pump. I am going to open the check valve again and look for debris tonight.

I think you are correct, it is the check valve on the return line that caused the issue last go round. A very small piece of debris was caught on the face of the valve keeping it from closing entirely and allowing the fuel to free flow if you will. Thanks, I have not heard of one failure of the banjo, but I read on blue chip diesel that is something to check. Below is the check valve, one end unscrews and you can adjust pressure by increasing the spring tension with small stack able washers.

I am currently experiencing fuel pressure drops when letting off of the throttle, however when under normal throttle my PSI is running between 15 and 20 PSI. I have the Fuel Boss that has a check valve on the return line and a month ago I cleaned this out and installed a new ISSPRO mechanical gauge with a snubber as I was having similar issues. My fuel pressure was good for a length of time, fluctuated from 18 to 20. Right now it will be at 19 under normal throttle, but when idling it drops all the way down to 8 and my engine begins to stumble as it is starving for fuel. Obviously an issue. My question is, can the return line banjo with the check valve on the VP44 fail and cause this issue of fuel pressure dropping as its allowing fuel to pass through freely? I haven't read of any failures due to the banjo bolt, but just curious. Thanks.

So your setup is smaller turbos? and your timing is retarded back enough to be safe and run lower cylinder pressures? LOL, with articles such as this, you have to know they pull stuff out of their asses, because they use a shop to outsource each different task, and create a "summary" that becomes the published article. Or they weren't running head studs to begin with, and swapped to twins and that is where the true head gasket issues showed up

Forgot about this. I agree, the 1st portion of the article is fluff. I can only trust @trreed's info as I have no experience with this, and may never, but know you are running twins and real world experience always wins...But, I did like the pictures and thought it was interesting that the actual o ring channel was cut by hand and checked for depth. I assumed this was an automated process, and might be for some companies. The pictures were good in my opinion, showing this process. I understand the timing aspect of advancing the timing for a hotter burn, but struggle with the exhaust housing size and the role that it plays.

I thought this was a decent read and explanation of how to/why O Ring a head. O Ring Cummins head

I say congrats and good riddens. I had a battle with those dang things and they chewed my high idle harness up, and caused my truck to run like crap and there was a short. I have been using Irish spring soap and the pouches you can get at Home Depot. Fingers crossed so good so far, the colder weather seems to drive them to search for places. Good luck

@dieselautopower who makes this pump? I see it has a two year warranty while all others have a 1 year. Thanks. https://www.dieselautopower.com/bosch-027-vp44-fuel-injection-pump-standard-output-235hp-wire-tap-voids-2-year-warranty-vp44027

Where did you purchase your VP44 from? I am going to go with industrial injection when the time comes.

Thanks Ben, I ordered it so we shall find out. That is a good idea to snug up the fit, use wraps of electrical tape.