LiveOak

This is what a lot of folks use: http://www.genosgarage.com/prodinfo.asp?number=TOOL_3824591

If you had the original Carter lift pump mounted on the side of the engine and you replaced it with the current pump, you do not have the intank pump.

I am getting to this party kinda late. A lot of reading to do and perhaps I missed something but from what I read, it appears to me that perhaps your slave cylinder and/or lines let go. With no slave cylinder to operate the clutch, the transmission is not going to behave well to say the least. Just on hunch, have you tried replacing the slave cylinder assembly? As already mentioned, I would remove the PTO overs and drain the transmission oil into a clean container and inspect it for metallic particles and contamination. Also check in the bottom of the transmission case for the big donut magnet and any metallic debry or other contamination. You should also be able to get a half way decent look at the transmission gears/rotating assemblies. If they look good, this is no guarantee all is well but about the best you can do at this level. If all looks goods to this point, you might consider replacing the slave cylinder assembly and refill the transmission with the PROPER oil (the dealer ridiculous priced stuff or Pennzoil Syncromesh or other oil that meets Chrysler's MS9224 spec.). When filling the transmssion it is very important to "over fill" by 2 pints. This will ensure better lubrication to the 5th gear shaft bearings. Just my worth and if I missed something, sorry about the oversite.

http://www.thoroughbreddiesel.com/airdog/2.htm That AirDog II has the adjustable fuel pressure and flow demand upgrades but costs about $100 more. To be honest, I have never had to touch the fuel pressure adjustment on my AirDog I. For a short time the fuel pressure was staying around 22 psi because my fuel return valve stuck shut but eventually did open and now my fuel pressure stay rock solid at 18 psi. For the most part, you really won't have a need to adjust fuel pressure once everything is set up correctly. If by chance you do need to adjust fuel pressure, it can be done by changing shim washers. If you go with the AirDog I, I would get the AirDog 150. If you go with the AirDog II, I would get the AirDog II165. You can do fine with the AirDog 100 but the AirDog 150 is the same price and leaves room for future mods. It is a coin flip. I guess if I was buying an AirDog now, I would go with the AirDog II 165. I purchased my AirDog from Extreme Diesel: http://www.xtremediesel.com/fuelsystem_1.aspx?page=2 Hope the video's and links help. I am sure others will jump in with their comments and observations too. I am sure you will be happy with either. Good luck!

The comp boost fools the ECM but you still need a boost elbow or other mod to prevent the waste gate from opening up and dumping boost pressure.

Isn't the Baldwin PF7977 the newer version of the PF7777? That is what I have been using.

I already had the proper fittings to run 1/2 inch fuel line from the tank to the IP since I had installed the Vulcan Big Line and drawstraw kit. Flman posted a link. If you are not sure, give Eric a call at Vulcan Performance and he can help you put together all of the fittings you will need. This is the Big Line kit that I installed: http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Draw-Straw-II-1-2-in-draw-tube-and-1-2-in-pushlo-p/vpps9804.htm If you are going to install an AirDog or FASS, many of the fittings come in that kit as well as the fuel hose. If you go this route, you will need this kit: http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Draw-Straw-II-1-2-in-draw-tube-and-1-2-in-pushlo-p/ffip.htm Maker sure you have a heat gun or some other means of heating the fuel hose up without melting it. These push lock fittings are a muther to get the hose 100% pushed on the barb in some cases.

In my opinion, the Baldwin PF7977 is the best filter out there and if you buy them by the case, they cost $10.16 from BFWeb Express: http://www.bfwebexpress.com/ I keep a couple of spare fuel heater elements as well since they are very difficult to get and word has it that they are no longer in production.

EXCELLENT video and thread! Just one minor thing. NEVER break torque with a torque wrench. If you do it enough or with a enough power, it will mess up the torque wrench. This was a pet peev of mine with crewchiefs on the flight line.

Added filter protection and the fuel heater. The AirDog does come with great filters that do protect against harmful materials and water but it does not have a fuel heater. Perhaps that is a feature they will add to a future AirDog pump.

That is the filter I have for my AirDog 150.

Just wanted to subscribe to this thread to follow what the solution is. Have you made any headway yet?

How much are they?

That is just plumb crazy! Looks like that entire area must have had heavy torrential rains that saturated the ground and the entire mountain side just slid down hill.

Subscribed! Very interesting thread! Can't wait to read part II. This is where an ultrasonic cleaner would really work well. We used those to clean up carbon coked turbo-shaft engine parts in the engine rebuild facility on Ft. Campbell.

The OEM filter especially if you use the Baldwin filter, will still filter about the same and provide a last chance catch for any possible water that may get by the AirDog filters. I consider it VERY cheap insurance.

Glad to hear everything worked at so well.

You can tear your dash open and clean out the evaporator tray as well as disinfect that area which is a MAJOR job or live with it as was mentioned above. No really fast and easy solution to fix this problem permanently. At least as far as I am aware of.

A few weeks back, a few folks were having some issues with their A/C on their trucks and A/C tools. Thought I would post this here. I got the email notification this morning. Though maybe some of you who may be looking for A/C and equipment might be interested. http://www.foxruntools.com/ Moderators: I didn't know where else to post this so please move it if this is not the right place.

I forgot to add, try installing a temporary mechanical fuel pressure gauge on the system and check your pressure that you see in the cab against what the mechanical gauge says. A bad fuel isolator separator or isolatore membrane could screw up your pressure readings in the cab. Check you fuel pressure hose and lines to the isolator as well. I going on the presumption that you have a mechanical fuel pressure guage in the cab.

Likely from the crud and debry in the drainage tray that builds up over time around the heater core and evaporator core. The condensation builds up on the crud and when you turn the A/C off it mildews. You can minimize this by turning you A/C to vent fan and the fan to HI a few miles before you get to your destination. This helps to dry out the evaporator area.

Oil pressure sounds a little high to me. Have you put a mechanical guage on the engine to verify actual engine oil pressure and your in cab gauge is reading correct pressure?

Have you eliminated the fuel filter as a possible source or fuel restriction? If not the fuel filter, sounds like the fuel pump may be getting weak or sucking air in the system somewhere.

This is a VERY dangerous thing to try. The only application that I am aware of where this is done is when propane tanks are filled. If liquid propane were to reach a burner........it would NOT be a good thing. Mike has experience as a fire fighter. I am sure he can elaborate on that.

I think you may have posted the wrong link. This is about installing a boost bolt in the intake manifold.