LiveOak

The ignition key trick works only on 2000 through 2002 models on this series trucks. You will have to get a code reader and extract the codes. I will venture a guess that if you put a fuel pressure test gauge on the IP schrader valve. The lift pump pressure is dead or very low. The rough idle is very likely the IP in my opinion although the dead pedal can be caused by the APPS. Can you borrow a code reader? The other option is if your friend has towing on his insurance, he can have the truck towed to a shop and have it checked. I think I would try to find out what codes if any are latched first.

That is where I bought mine. Still haven't installed it yet, but mention Gary sent you and I believe they will give you a discount.

Another possibility is the injector pump flow return valve is stuck shut. With years of low fuel pressure not enough to trigger the valve to open, the valve can become stuck shut, not allowing excess fuel to return to the fuel tank. Mine did this initially after being installed and I called the Air Dog folks and they mentioned this possibility. My Air Dog would go up to about 24 psi at times but eventually with use stays stable at approx. 18 psi. I asked the tech. support guy about the pump putting out too much pressure and he told me they all get pressure tested before they leave the manufacturing facility. :confused: You may want to call and get some advice on the best course of action to take.

What kind of air filter are you running? I tried the aFe high flow filters and found them wanting. They actually reduced air flow over a new stock paper filter. I finally settled on the BHAF. Works very well. Easy install. Cheap. Add a turbo heat shield and Outerware Pre-filter cover to make the set up work optimum. The other area you may need to change and it has already been mentioned is the tubo nozzle housing.

Have you considered a bad A/C compressor? Extreme drag may cause rapid rpm drop? :confused:

I am looking for a good quality magnetic oil pan drain plug for my wife's 2001. I have one of the Geno's Garage magnetic oil drain plugs on my truck which is a very good plug but the magnet is kinda weak. It does OK. Does anyone know of any other good quality magnetic oil pan drain plugs? I ordered one from Power **** Racing on ebay. The magnet is really strong but the plug is not the right size and is junk. Any recommendations appreciated. Thanks!

Ditto!

Just my 2 cents worth of opinion but if you are gonna spend the money and effort to install a DDRP, especially on a NON stock truck, get the Air Dog or FASS. It is not that much more and it is far and away a MUCH better and capable pump.

I am NOT a member of the "Church of Amsoil" however I will say that many of their gear lube oils and the marine heavy duty diesel oil are very good products. I use their differential lube oil and heavy duty marine diesel oil in my ATV's. I used to use it in my cummins but it is just too expensive. Again very good products albeit FAR over priced and OVER hyped.

Bare in mind these pressures are predicated upon the lift pump being moved to the frame rail just under and in front of the fuel tank and 1/2 inch ID fuel lines and AN fittings up to the injector pump. When I had this pump in stock/OE location on the engine with the stock/OE fuel lines, these pressures were about 2-3 psi lower across the board.

Idle is approx. 20 lbs. Normal operation is between 16-17 psi. A hard 5th gear pull @ wot approx. 14-15 psi.

Dave, So far so good. The wife has been driving the truck without issue and I have driven it a few times to check the lift pump operation and performance. It is working well and holds good pressure well within acceptable limits.

My wife's truck does this between 3rd and 4th if you try to shift directly from 3rd to 4th without a momentary pause. I drained the transmission and overfilled it about a quart or so with Pennzoil Synchromesh. A drain and fill is way cheaper than a rebuild. Try changing the trans. oil and over fill a quart and see what happens. It took a few days of driving my wife's truck after the oil change but it seemed to help improve the shifting. Its not perfect but it is noticably better.

Cranking is referring to while cranking the engine with the starter.

Russ, All I can say is you pay for what you get. The BFG T/A All Terrain KO's I have on my truck have been EXCELLENT tires ON and OFF road and they ride smooth and quiet. You can expect 50K miles or more from them especially if you use the balance beads. They come a pretty wide range of sizes.

I bet black crinkle finish paint would look sharp and cover up the imperfections.

Plugging in about 2 to 3 hours before start up and idling with the exhaust brake set works pretty good but I like Mike's 3 cylinder warm up switch. I just don't have the heart to cut into the wire harness like that. Murphy is always close by and like to wreak havoc. :D

Thin plastic sheet material stock is much easier to machine and form to the correct shape, plus it is not nearly as abrasive to the chrome on the grill.

I did the exact same thing you did but I stock piled those BS campaign pumps at $60 a pop and bought 6. I am down to my last one now. They worked OK when they were working but you had to keep a close eye on them. The Vulcan big line kit was a great addition though.

Yeah.......I have been playing the fix the fuel pressure problem for almost 3 years. Figured I would pass along what I know that WORKS from personal experience so perhaps maybe someone else might benefit and NOT have to go through this EXPENSIVE process.

I pretty much came to that conclusion in my case because buying a sheet of similar material stock was almost the cost of just buying the winter fronts. A note on the winter fronts after they are installed.......I go over the screw heads with a Sharpie permanent marker to black them out so they match the winter front covers. Kinda half *** but it is way cheaper than black anodized screws. LOL

You can make your own or you can buy a set of winter fronts for your truck from a guy named Eric Buckel.Eric Buckel Location: 6139 south 4480 westSalt Lake City, Utah 84118USA Telephone: 801-965-6358 Tough ABS Plastic panels that bolt in your grille to reduce cold air and help your engine warm up faster.. No drilling.$30 for chrome grille$35 for Sport modelboth are shipped for $7 shipping I have his winter fronts installed on both of our trucks. I leave mine on until mid summer. Not only to they help engine warm up and keeping it warm, they also help to reduce the bugs in the condenser big time. :thumbsup I used nylock nuts instead of the standard nut and lock washer in the hardware kit.

If you are not going to leave the engine stock mean moderate and up modifications, I recommend the Air Dog or FASS. If you are gonna leave the engine stock or conservative modifications, the Vulcan Big Line/Pump relocation kit and a modified Aertex E8845 pump. http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Draw-S ... ps9804.htm http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Airtex ... tx8845.htm Eric at Vulcan can modify the Aertex pump for you to accept 1/2 AN fittings. I have this very set up on my wifes truck which is stock and it is working very well. If you decide to go the Air Dog route, it is more involved on the install but worth the effort for a modified truck. Better hurry if you want an Air Dog, the price is going up soon Xtreme Diesel has them for $499 and free shipping. http://www.xtremediesel.com/pureflowtec ... fp150.aspx The kit from Dodge is expensive junk that does NOT work. The pressure is too low and it does not meet flow requirments for the injector pump. Regardless of what pump set up you have, a fuel pressure gauge is an absolute necessity. If you are going to add mods. I strongly recommend a boost and EGT gauge as well. The guages can be mounted on the A pillar if you choose to mount all three or you can mount them on the steering wheel colmn just behing the steering wheel. Other mounts use the dash. I have the Boost, EGT, and fuel pressure gauges mounted on the A pillar and my wife's truck has the just the fuel pressure gauge mounted on the steering wheel column. This is the gauge mount I have in my truck: http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Fuel-P ... p/tp05.htm This is the guage mount in the wife's truck: http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Fuel-P ... -p/scp.htm The steering wheel mount is the easiest and simplest to install because you don't have to route the wires and lines up through the dash and to the A pillar. The A pillar gauges I think look a lot nicer and are easier to read if you have decent eye sight. LOL

I realize this is kinda off topic and not Dodge related but I figured there is a wealth of knowledge and experience here that might be able to help me out. The transmission in my wife's car went out about a month ago. The car is a 1995 Ford Taurus LX with the 3.8 liter V-6. The transmission will go into gear in 1st or reverse and function properly in those gears BUT will not shift into higher gears. If the car is made to go as fast as possible in 1st gear, it will try to shift up to the next gear but when it does, there is NOTHING. The engine just revs freely and the transmission stops pulling the car. From what I have been able to gather, this is a very common failure. The care has 168,000 miles on it and is not worth much. The local transmission shop tells me a rebuilt trans. will run about $1900. I can get a junk yard trans. that has about 90,000 miles on it for around $600. The problem is that car is maybe worth $500 and not worth this huge expenditure. The other problem is as I am told, these are very weak transmissions and are lucky to get 90,000 miles out of them. When we first bought the car, the entire transaxle had to be replaced under warranty with maybe 25,000 miles. I am told we are lucky we got this many miles out of this one. I am a half way decent wrench but no professional mechanic. I was hoping to let my teenage daughters use this car for learning to drive on before I buy them something better. Does anyone here have experience with this transmission and can this issue be repaired without spending an arm and a leg? Befor I spend that much money on this car, I will by a late model Honda or Toyota. I don't want to throw good money after bad. I am fed up with American junk. What if any are my options here? Thanks.

I have checked at my local auto parts store but they don't carry it. I called Eric at Vulcan and he tells me the hose he uses now comes on 250 ft. rolls. I was thinking about buying a roll but 250 ft. is just way too much. I thinking it might be available in 50 ft. rolls but apparently it is not. I'll look on the hose and post the manufacturer and grade. This is the first time I have used this hose so I have no idea how it will hold up.