Terry C

Has anyone checked the injectors?

Displacement shouldn't make any difference in making it run as long as everything electrical is hooked up. Wonder why the truck had a transplant?

What about unhooking one sensor and seeing what happens? If it acts like a sensor then try the other one. However...... That just might turn out to be a rear drum. I had one that pulsed and one drum had a bad spot in it.

Ah, St Louis is a good place to be from........ far from!! J/K. I never had any problems there, but about all I did was pass through. Welcome!

You are correct, a gauge is most accurate in the middle of its range. Just get yourself a set of quality gauges and install them as per the mfgr's instructions. The installation of the pyro is the same for a first gen, 12v or 24v. The boost is not a 'must have' gauge, but it sure comes in handy for diagnosing some performance issues. The transmission temp, the fuel pressure and the pyro gauges are the ones that are a must have. Take a look at this to give you some ideas: http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/gauges/gauges.htm

I have not heard good things about Felpro headgaskets. Not quite as bad as the MLS gaskets for 12valves, but not good things. Try going HERE and get the .020 gasket. I got one not that long ago and the only gasket not included was the intake horn gasket. Also the price was reasonable too. They also send a bolt stretch gauge. RPM has the correct procedure for STOCK bolts. Like Wild and Free said, you are going for clamping force, not actual bolt torque numbers.

I prefer mine moist......

According to my FSMs ('94-'96 and '98) there were two tanks available. One is 35 gallons and the other is 26 gallons. I never knew that until I looked it up.

So how do you tell if it is the left or right sensor? I would not want to just replace both for some excitement on a weekend........

I have heard about people doing that, but I wonder if it will really be worth it. There is actually a thin film of oil remaining on the bearing surfaces when the engine is not running. Most engines get started thousands of times without any prelube and they seem to last a long time.

I bet that would be a meeting to watch!!

I have an early RE. The last of the RH was 1995.

Hopefully it turns out to be something simple!

Transmission is full and as long as I let it run for a bit in neutral and allow it to build a little heat it does fine.

A way to check the APPS is to use an analog (needle type) ohm meter. The needle SHOULD sweep nice and steady when you open the throttle. You will be able to see any dips or jumps. Do you by chance have any sort of programming box on your truck? I saw one that would get a dead pedal after about 30 seconds of run time and would not even shut the truck off with the key. Turned out to be the box was screwy.

If you unhook the sensor, does it still do the same thing?

I could see the cold thick fluid if I was running some hydraulic oil and the temp was -40*, but we are talking synthetic (ATF+4) tranny fluid. I haven't had the opportunity to e-mail DaveG yet. The truck isn't getting used much right now so it isn't a priority. I was just wondering if anyone had any ideas for me.

All you would need to do is just loosen up the clamp in your picture and that should bleed any air left in it. I read where some guys have had that same issue for a long time and it doesn't seem to hurt anything.

Teflon tape would be OK, but make sure that you don't tape the first thread because pieces of the tape can and will break off and have the ability to cause havoc on the system. I personally prefer to use a decent quality pipe dope.

These engines don't produce much heat at an idle. That is why Cummins does not recommend letting them idle and also why you need to use a fast idle. That little heater core is capable of removing more heat than you engine makes at an idle.

Good choice........

Ever figure this one out?

Just be careful with the tight tolerances.... it just might get expensive real quick.

John, that depends on how much driving you are doing. Have you gotten it warm enough to have the t'stat open a few times? That should be enough to get all the air out. If not look for a pipe plug that you can loosen right around the t'stat. I believe you can use a 3/8" ratchet to unscrew the plug.

With all the trucks in your area I would think you should be able to find one quite easily.