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It is definitely nice to look stuff up anywhere and everywhere. I used to have sprint which had an unlimited data plan and I rigged it all up with the family to where it was a wifi hotspot using the network carrier towers from here to detroit michigan. It was awesome. But they have since made sure to block every way you can do that (you aren't supposed to be able to do that without another $20/month charge). However, using just the phone is fine and you can get to everything on the web and yeah it really is awesome. But, $100 a month is BS. Internet at home isn't even that much and cell phones can barely even come close to what a laptop can use. I was paying $100 for mine and eventually asked why when I could just get a stupid phone and jump on my parent's plan for free using their minutes (they have thousands in rollover) and unlimited texting. It's a no brainer. If it were me and you were going on a vacation, download the FSM and bring a laptop.. I mean thats $1200 a year you can spend on a new laptop every 5 years, a DAMN nice laptop that will last all 5 years without a sweat. As with anything else these days, it's just another luxury..Write down everyones number in the 911 section as well and now you have a smart phone for your break down times. You will lose data before you lose voice signal. Data is very flakey in a lot of places especially mountainous places. I got a smart phone (Nokia N8) and turned the data settings all completely off so they can't charge me anything for having it since they don't know about it. So I can use it in wifi places and all kinds of stuff. It has offline maps for use with the GPS as well. That is pretty slick with the smart phones though being able to google a place then have it just take you straight to it. Still tomtom does the same thing and a hell of a lot better. Phones are kinda hard to use with GPS. IMHO, take your laptop.. get a stupid phone (keep your current one if thats the case), and get a tomtom or something for GPS. Oh and the batteries on smart phones last only a few days compared to the weeks you can get out of a stupid phone. I mean they are nice but $100/month is just too much. If you can afford it without sacrificing anything else then go for it. I personally don't think I will ever go back to one.

The only thing I have ever had magically fail was the water pump. I would take the belt off and spin it feeling the bearings for wear every 25,000. Replace if it feels crappy..

Same issue with my truck. You can't see any fuel leaks but air would get in. I actually cut all the metal lines and used swagelok fittings to eliminate the stupid banjo bolts, problem solved.

Now thats just insane

Just think of how much time it knocks off being able to do 0-60 in just one gear.

Who is talking about racing or flooring it? This is about improving turbo efficiency really, which in turn improves engine efficiency..isn't that your goal?I am never floored, not even close, the engine would melt. Hence the reason we are talking about turbo intake temps lowering EGT's. If they are lower, I wouldn't go faster, but it would make me feel better doing 100F lower up that hill at the same speed. The engine would be more efficient since the turbo was working better, mileage would be up....now you see why I want to hear AH64's proof on the matter. This has nothing to do with racing. This has to do with making the power our trucks already have more usable and more efficient.

You're avoiding the issue If a little cold air intake could mean the difference between maintaining whatever speed and having to decrease before the engine melts, then I think it's worth looking into further. As for the hills and stuff. On my way to this one place I ride dirt bikes there is an alternating passing lane. There is always a line of semi trucks going up dead mans hill at 35mph (in a 65) and it just happens to be a passing lane but to pass them all you can't slow down from 65. It is a steep longgg hill and I am pushing 25-30psi doing 65-70 to pass them all with EGT's hovering around 1000-1100. However, without my boost controller thing holding the wastegate shut it would only be at 20psi and I would need more fuel since I don't have as much boost and my EGT would show it. I'm not about to drive down to 25mph following those semis up 50 miles of identical steep hills. That is actually where I get the 25F over ambient temp on my BHAF, up that hill.. If I was 100F over ambient up that hill, would it be the same as not having my boost controller thinger as well? Thats what I want to know. I don't want to build it for everyday flat ground running, I want it to be efficient doing that as well as up that damn hill. I have it all set perfect to where I can do whatever I want under 1200F at this point, but I don't know how much my "open flow under hood" design has helped it. Like I said though, taking all that crap out did seem to help my EGT's, I just cant prove anything since I don't have solid figures. But I think AH64 does.

I think there is a different issue going on. The intercooler drops the temp but is the turbo working harder (and less efficient) if it is fed hotter air.. I think the IAT would mask this since the intercooler gives the illusion that the turbo is working fine, though it could be working like crap but since the intercooler is good at it's job it easily masks the issue. Like I said though, I see 25F over ambient max but I have no shroud, no battery, no overflow tank...no nothing, so it could be a completely different story for someone with those still in. I have also hear the stock intercooler is only good enough for stock values and begins to fall on it's face after that. Being the heat really comes on when you get above "stock levels", a high turbo intake temp could make a big difference in how well the turbo does it's job. I think of it like my boost controller I made. If the turbo is fed hot air, you can still get enough flow to show the restriction of 30psi, but you are working against the wastegate and EGT's are pretty high. Leave the wastegate shut and now you can get to 30psi with ease and the EGT's are nice and happy. So the analogy is that a hot intake air turbo is "fighting a wastegate" whereas an ambient temp air temp is working with the "wastegate closed". This isn't really noticed if you have never done it. I mean 30psi up a 7% hill might mean 1200EGT with X load. But what if you could do 25psi with everything the same and be at 1100EGT....thats what my wastegate thinger did for me. The same thing could be true with the ambient temp stuff. I swear my EGT's went down when I ripped everything out and if the turbo intake really does get to 100F with all of it in, then I could see the EGT drop being legit.

Has anyone gone over 200k with one set of injectors? I mean does good filtering and lubricity cure it?

So how do you know when the injector is failing? Does the CEL come on or does it start running weird or what? How long does it take to destroy more than the injector once the injector fails?

Does filtering it with fancy filters fix the problem? I mean the VP is one thing but an injector that destroys an engine is quite another. So you wouldn't just be changing the injector, but the piston and liners as well. Do they even have liners? That sounds like a very expensive ordeal.

I've been looking, and looking.......I have yet to see the spec for a VP truck. The service manual in the downloads section here explicitly omits the spec. I can go on cummins quickserve and my factory service manual is public for my 12 valve and it says 350psi for a new engine and 300psi for a used one with none being more than 100psi variance. But 12 valves run 17.5-18 compression (never can get a straight answer which one). So where is the spec for the 24v's? Then here we have this article http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/34-engine-system/144-compression-testing and he says the stuff isn't listed. But he says 375 across the board for a good running engine which all 24 valve engines have less compression than a 12V which I already found has a new engine spec of 350. Sooo left with throwing your hands in the air again. Theoretically you could calculate the pressure and then compare it to the pressure you measure and if its within a certain percentage then you would be able to call it good. I think.

I thought about that. I went over the formulas forever but it didn't make sense to me and I just grew tired of working on it. I'll research it more.

The intake temp determines how many moles of air can be in the chamber along with just setting a starting point. The ending compression is the same but the ending temp is vastly different. Going from 0F to 100F IAT creates a 305F ending temp difference. I think 14.7 is the right starting point given you are cranking the engine with the starter (slow) so the chamber easily equalizes. In this spreadsheet (more detailed) you can see 0-100F also has a 21% mole number difference. So you lose a 300F and gain 21% of air.CAI Proof.xls

I don't want to shatter your theory but that is not how you calculate pressure of compression. You might read up on the Ideal Gas Law The spreadsheet I attached makes it easy as it also calculates temperature. The simple PV=nRT is too simple as you will have a constant temp or constant pressure which simply isn't the case. But with 16.3 CR and 100F intake temp, 0 boost, the pressure is 731psi at TDC. With all the leakage that is why 350ish is more normal.Compression.xls

I can see this being in another duramax overheating video

That's why I said even if you have to go out of your way to do it.... I would spend all summer shoveling one shovel full a day to run a conduit over to a post with an outlet on it, anything, starting a cold truck is the only thing that wears it out. You don't see Caj doing that and look at the result. He lets it idle all night while he sleeps in it, I mean that thing shoulda worn out 5 years ago, but it doesn't because it's always warm. Plus he drives it nice and sanely. There's 100 videos of retards on youtube starting them and flooring them and you can see the results very quickly. The second time they do that it barely starts. I know we don't floor ours so we don't have anywhere near as bad of results but the cold start is the single biggest wear contributor IMO.

That is why I said it is better than nothing somewhere other than Texas, but in Texas it's not like you have icicles hanging out of your nose so you might as well just get in and lightly drive it. If you have a foot of snow on the windshield and ice under that and it's 0F out then that "better than nothing" becomes a lot better than nothing, especially better than the 6cyl high idle. You are correct you just read what I said the wrong way or I said it the wrong way. Even you still came to the conclusion that it isn't worth it in Texas so you are basically seeing the same point of view. IMHO I would just plug it in. I know it's easier to just flip a 3cyl high idle switch to heat it up but going out of your way to get a receptacle in front of your truck at your house has 10fold benefits in my opinion. Diesel is like gold, electricity is cheap. Starting a warm truck also cuts a lot of wear and tear. Even though you have 3cyl high idle, you still wear everything every time you start it at 0F.

..and ran across it again. Basically corvette vs. fighter jet.. You can listen to 8 minutes of crap or you can start it at 8:00 where they actually race. Pretty amazing.

I calculated a few times and you can basically say that any truck that does 70 at 2100RPM+ is 4.10. If your tires are huge then it is possible to be under 2100 with 4.10's but for sane tire sizes this works. Mainly because the highest O/D (0.75) with the smallest tires OEM (245/75) with 3.55 is 2050RPM at 70. 4.10 would obviously rev much higher. If you go the other route to see if this rule of thumb holds up wtih an auto (0.69) with 4x4 tires (265/75) and 4.10's you get 2100 so the rule of thumb works, barely.

I'll fix this. After all, someone without a 24V has no bias towards opinions High idle is for any temp that water freezes. It kicks in and lets it warm up faster. However, Mike has a chart in the articles that show high idle alone barely does anything. Same story with my 12V, idling it up barely does crap. Alright here it is, almost the bottom of the page it shows a table. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/51-high-idle-mod You can see that high idle gets it to 300F...which is nothing. You can see everything is crap unless you add an exhaust brake. The 3cyl high idle does do some though by itself. I think Mike uses the high idle for nothing but keeping his alternator going when he does some of these car accident calls and has all his lights running. Other than that I see no use in the regular high idle. The MPG fooler is basically ONLY for maybe <50F temps. Mike told me his mileage goes to crap in the winter but mine never does and I get down to -10F sometimes. I thought about it and the only difference in the winter vs. summer is the IAT so I told him to fool it and low and behold his mileage stays the same in the winter as the summer now. So it is ONLY for the winter. Whatever these things do in the winter for emissions just seems to have a negative impact on MPG's. There is another thread for what to do during warmup in the diesel research section and basically the best thing to do is let the engine idle for maybe a minute <32F, maybe 30 seconds from 32-60F, and 10 seconds for anything hotter. After that, just go. Don't floor it, just load the engine with easy driving until it gets nice and warm (>140Fish). Take off slowly, etc. This is because a cold engine is a tight engine that causes the majority of the wear so idling just keeps the wear going for a long time. Starting it and driving it gets it up to temp quicker and out of the "wear temperature" range. These things won't produce any heat just idling. I wouldn't even bother with the 3cyl high idle. Unless you have an exhaust brake to combine with the 3cyl to really get the heat rolling. If you didn't live in Texas then I could see the 3cyl high idle only as being better than nothing. In other words, I wouldn't get it for Texas. Get in and drive it instead.

PM sent

So I didn't know what to say about that, went to CF and found this http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/3rd-gen-powertrain/617695-million-mile-quest-ends.html So my question is, would a dose of 2 stroke and having the fuel ran through a frantz or centrifuge fix all this? I mean I haven't heard of anything other than injectors failing and as long as they have lube and clean fuel, I don't see how they could fail. I never hear about anyone running the fuel through a better fuel filter than the OEM one. Plus, why do the pistons score when the injectors fail? I know nothing about these CR symptoms.

This last haircut I did get it half off since I told them not to even touch the top It's degrading

Could you tell us any codes or what symptoms you were seeing that pointed to the ECM so we could be on the same page of your troubleshooting. More details you can give them quicker and better we can help.