ISX

I don't do it but I see no reason you shouldn't do it either. I mean he's beating it to death but he's being thorough to make sure everything goes together perfectly and there will be 0 chance of anything messing up. Can't insult a guy for doing things right, even if it is insanely thorough. Usually those lifts have steel blocks to pin the lift so it doesn't fall on you if the hydraulic seals blow out, maybe his didn't have them so the jack stands were his failsafe. I learned a lot from the vid actually and if I was experiencing some issues then I now know another thing to check. He greases stuff I never greased, this and that, it was a good video.

If you wear a carhatt coat and try and ride a dirt bike, you quickly figure out how much it sucks. It's like that kids little brother on A Christmas Story. So I switched to shirts and just kept putting more on. It was 10F or something and I was fine even doing 40mph across the field. But yes, it is unrealistic, get a truck or suv.

If you layer up with just t shirts (more like 7 long sleeved ones), it's amazing how cold you can go and ride a dirt bike. The t shirts keep you perfectly flexible yet layered enough that the wind doesn't get through and you stay quite warm. I'd say a thin windbreaker on the outside layer would seal the deal. Coats never do a thing for me so I don't even own one. I just wear more shirts. I have to have tight layers not some big drafty coat. Heated handlebars would be a must though.

Get the 4 runner. You can throw everything in the back and not have to worry about it getting wet or anything. If you need to load/pull something bigger, use the truck.

I used a wire and well you can see. Did it longgggg ago, never had a problem since. Only did it on the one side.

I never thought the grill covers did anything, and after testing I was right. Two 10* days of starting it and instantly taking off (nicely), and the warm up times were identical. I can't remember and I can't find the thread but I think I covered the entire radiator with cardboard when I tested it. I am still under the logic that the radiator isn't used until the thermostat opens, so blocking it does nothing when the engine is circulating only the water within it, not the water in the radiator. I would think the wind would be minimal on the engine because the grill, radiators, etc, are slowing down the air and then it isn't enough of a gust on the engine to really take any of the heat away from it. I think if you guys timed it rather than assumed it was heating up faster, you would be surprised. Thinking something works tweaks your mind a little, but a stopwatch always tells the truth.

What is your daily menu like then?

I'm not gonna let it leak oil all over everything. I've conquered everything inside it as well as in the engine so its just boring now. I liked working on it a lot more than driving it, the jeep is the opposite so I drive it instead. I'd like to take the engine out and put it on a stand and play with it.

It looks better on my desk than under a hood hidden away.

Could be as simple as a clogged prefilter. If he doesn't care then he probably didn't even look. These 12 valves aren't built by NASA. Check filters, overflow valves, etc, thats all there is to it.

Not sure what is so hard, I can get to mine just fine

http://www.walmart.com/ip/29825362?sourceid=api00ct5c918807b5ed4f2db149ea65b88f3383&veh=aff&wmlspartner=readonlyapi Shrink tube, crimpers...thats all you need.

My gripe was that the steering wheel seemed off center. It seemed like it was mounted an inch off center so when you turned, the steering wheel traced out some oblong shape. I think it was just the shape of the steering wheel but it drove me nuts.

Brother had one and got rid of it after not wanting to do the timing belt thing. Seemed nice, I didn't like how it felt behind the wheel but maybe I'm not used to these newer vehicles. We raced and my jeep blew it's doors off lol. My jeep could also keep up with my dodge You can get a lot of headway with a long 3.07 rear and 5000 RPM's at your disposal compared to my dodge's 3.55 and 3000RPM. I can do 60 in 2nd in the jeep. 105 in 3rd (according to tire/gear calculations). My jeep gets a consistent 18-22mpg. Pretty happy with the POS haha. I do love it

I'd like to hear some actual input from cumminsforum or another big forum and get some actual polling numbers on how long guys are going on stock CR injectors or other major components. We kinda get lost in time so the initial bad injector thing was also during the ULSD transition phase when LSD was still being flushed out. So to use 2014 logic, are they actually screwing up like our 2003 logic keeps thinking? I heard the injectors go out and they cost $1000 an injector, but that is ollld thinking. I'd like to update that logic and get some actual numbers now that CR's are well, old. I mean they are 11 years old now. If everyone was changing out $1000 injectors every other mile, every CR would be in a junkyard by now. So yeah, I wanna come up with a poll somewhere for some updated numbers.

The windmills are free energy.. Though I'm told they cost a ton to maintain. Anyhow, it's just like Tom says, its sold all over. When a plant shuts down for maintenance, the power is sourced elsewhere. However, I think it costs more money for the power company when they have to buy power to make up for what they can't produce for their customers. A lot more. In the summer when everyone has their A/C on, power stations can't keep up. They have to buy power and start huge diesel generators just to feed our souls. The windmill thing eases all of these peaks that power plants cant keep up with. Coal plants can throttle back, nuclear plants are 100% all the time. Spring and Fall is when there is the least use because it is that perfect temp when you don't need A/C or heat. Then in the winter everyone kicks their electric heat back on (for those who use electric). I would say christmas would be a very high load same with thanksgiving because everyone has their oven on. There are some hugggggge reservoirs of water in places around the US where the water drains down into a separate reservoir through turbines generating power during the day. This is how they get energy for the high A/C use periods.. At night the load is lower so they have pumps that pump the water back up to the higher reservoir. Obviously rain is a big win. They are just huge man made lakes.. Companies actually get some sorta incentive to use "green power", but it costs extra per kwh, and the power doesnt come from the windmills per say, its a gimmick.

That explains the soot.

I'll get his attention

I guess I'm not much better. I had this battery laying around and didn't want it to go to waste so I'm floating it until I need it in something else. Ran wires all the way back through the trim above the doors. I did put a fusible link on the positive so maybe I'm a little better lol.

I actually thought about this yesterday when I got some overcooked food that is already way overpriced. I was like, how can they give me this crap when the usual is soooo good. I know you don't want to throw away edible food but this crap is ridiculously priced so it was ridiculous to get what I received. But, even if something is cheap doesn't mean it should quickly fail. If I buy a cheap Blu-ray player, I still expect blu ray quality and at least a year of it working. If I paid extra, I would want 5 year minimum and some extra bells and whistles. 1300 miles is ridiculous at any cost. Might as well have super glued it all together and charged you $50.

Yeah. So theoretically if you pinned the pump (but didn't pin it), and went back 14* or whatever is on the engine data plate, then it would be at spill port closure. At which point you could pop the gear off and then put the timing on the actual degree you wanted. Again, that is a very very cheater method.. I'm merely saying in a perfect world, it would work.

The more I look at my pump (next to me), the more I wonder if it's adjustable. When I did the cutaway vid, I didn't really see slot in anything to adjust it. I need to look deeper into it. I've heard it can be up to 2* off but if it is a set place on all pumps then the problem could simply be that the pumps range from 12* to 14* stock timing, giving the 2* off on some pumps and dead nuts on others. From my recollection playing with mine, it was pretty accurate. Using it to set timing is probably frowned upon but it's not like it wouldn't work. If you were really good you could measure the exact timing that the tab was at then write it down and you would simply put the engine at TDC, break the nut, then move the damper forward or back the amount extra you wanted. I've even gone to the point of measuring valve engagement to compare with my damper mark to find TDC using a dial indicator. There are tons of things you can do with these, just math and measuring.

I think you are wrong on the pin it and move it to 14* mark. TDC is an easy reference so the pump tab uses engine TDC as a reference. The spill port method is ACTUAL timing degrees. If the pump is tabbed and the engine is at TDC, then it is at stock timing, but you are at TDC, not 14*, so how can this be? They put that tab 14* out of phase.. That way you just find TDC, rather than 14*, which is obviously much harder. So by tabbing the pump and having the engine at TDC, you are at 14*. By turning the engine backwards another 2*, then you are at 16*. So you would be 2* from the TDC mark. It took me a long time to get a perfect understanding of this, cumminsforum didn't help matters. You just have to remember that the tab is out of phase so that they can use TDC as a reference because it is easy to find.

I measured with calipers and got 1.180" which means 30mm would be it being 1.1811" and 1 3/16 is 1.1875.

I never pin the pump. That thing is plastic and any movement at all shears it off. I just eyeball it with the mirror perfectly centered. That should get it within 1/2 a degree if not better. If you really wanna cheat, get it at that spot in the window, then instead of putting the engine at TDC for the stock timing, go backwards the degree amount EXTRA that you want. So if the engine is at absolute TDC and the pump tab is perfectly aligned in the window, then it should be at the timing on the side of the engine block. We'll say 14*. So if unlock the pump and move the damper counterclockwise 2* and retorque the pump nut, then it will be at 16*. That is as cheater as it gets and isn't the most accurate but it's not like it doesn't work. The accuracy is a factor of the tab in the pump. The port that shows the tab can actually be adjusted, and hence be out of whack. I doubt it would be over 2* off but how your truck acts shows that it is probably correct. Perfect starts, terrible EGTs, all a sign of overly retarded timing. I use 1 3/16 as well. I think some sockets are made sloppier than others.