ISX

We have 1/4" of ice on everything. It took probably 2 minutes to get down the flight of stairs at my apartment. I drove back to parents and all the bridges made my jeep slide all over the place. Roads aren't as bad, just wet. But anything that isn't pavement or cement is coated. Even the rocks at my parents driveway made my jeep just spin out the whole way up it (in 2wd). Snow is an issue but the black ice is where all the deadly things happen, and we get tons of it since we constantly hover around freezing all winter. Rain during the day and it freezes at night.

Mine blinked when I was playing with the grid heater relays. Maybe one of the wires on yours came loose.

I'm gonna rock the boat cause I'm bored. According to my calculations and the TSB that says you should have 10-20" Hg, that means a max of 9.8psi drop. At 5000ft you are at 12.2psi, subtract 9.8 and you are at 2.4. This is all absolute psi. At 2.4psia, water boils around 130F. At a more modest 2000ft, it boils at around 150F. That is only with the max vacuum spec.... In other words, I don't think its boiling. I don't think the vacuum lines get that hot when the engine is only 180-200F and the vacuum lines are an insulator and not even sitting on the engine for the most part. I think vacuum lines are better since they obviously don't have as much air in them meaning less water as well, but I'm betting they would still freeze given the right circumstances.

I thought of this thread and saw this the other day. Now the funny part, its 35F with no wind....even I'm not that bad and I have terrible blood flow.

Only the guys who posted in the 911 contact section are on the list. It's a privacy thing.. If you posted then maybe I missed it. USA List Canada List

Thats pretty significant actually. Thats at 55 where there isn't even any real speed. Do the calculations at 70mph.

The only way I see it doing that is zoomed all the way out. Zoom in so you aren't seeing the whole world.

Your google maps link took it straight to the same spot on my map... sooo

Because if you look at your quote, it says new salem.. That's what I used. I looked for cities people said before putting in "areas" because the city is obviously where they are so it is more accurate.

I assumed he was one of the general ones. However, that's exactly what I have and is exactly where it puts the placemark. So if google is wrong, point out where the right location is.

A lot of you guys don't even have a location.. You just say "around the southern half". But you all list phone numbers and that can be tracked to a city so thats what I used in that case. So W&F was probably one of those scenarios. If you have actual cities then that would be far easier.. Dorkweed is another one I guessed at. thracing is in canada, but hes right on the edge, zoom in and you will see.

The CAD system is a brutally easy setup. If the posi lock is only $159 then that does seem smarter but the CAD can be fixed and go another 10 years. If you clean it every summer and blow the vacuum lines out then I would think it would be good for a long time. I don't know what makes the valves go out being they are not really exposed to anything, its just a sealed little thing. They are very cheap. If the thing did go out, vacuum line got whacked off going through some snow drifts, that would suck to have to get under there when a posi lock would probably eliminate that. Up to you, if it were me I would fix the CAD and put some fancy braiding on the vacuum lines and make sure they were tucked away, but thats only because it is simple and really a solid setup. Everything has risks and the vacuum crap is probably overly complicated but it does work pretty slick when it does work. Damned if you do damned if you don't. Personal preference either way.

I'm pretty sure it takes vacuum both ways, otherwise it would just use a vent rather than completely diverting the vacuum from one side to the other. I played with it a bunch and I'm pretty sure without vacuum it doesn't do anything. The system is simple, the valves are cheap.. The design saves the u joints in the driveshaft. Its a good system if it works.

You meant flagstaff didnt you I think I got it now. Thanks for checking these guys.

All I can put are cities, you guys dont have addresses lol. I think thats plenty close though, not like they are gonna break down at your doorstep.It's done though. More work than I anticipated but the update/refresh thing really made it easy. I mean I just put in the address and hit save then hit update and it's done, so cool. I'll work on the hyperlinks tomorrow, maybe.

Figured something fancy out so you guys can see. Only members can see this section so only members can see this link.. http://mapalist.com/Public/pm.aspx?mapid=404996 It works off a google docs spreadsheet which I can update, then click update on that map it updates from the google doc. Very slick. I need to see if I can somehow make it to where when you click on the pinpoint, it shows info but also a hyperlink to the thread that guy started so they can see more info. A lot of you have special instructions and stuff so it would be a good idea, I just have to keep playing with it.

I'm a mile from the interstate so I gain 10* per 10ft a I go down the on ramp with it to the floor. I don't want the jeep slacking so I blow the cob webs out every morning.

You know its bad when you $%^&* are sending me 5*F weather to wake up to. Then again, I'm in an upstairs apartment and I drive an inefficient gasser that produces lots of heat

All I did was put a switch on the small wire, wired it into the cab to my switch then back to the grid relays. I remember having issues between whether to use the green wires or not (back in 2010 when I was still learning), but looking at the schematic, the green wires are always connected and it is the hot ones that are switched. Meaning you would use the green ones to switch the entire system on and off. Or you could do the hot ones individually to control both grid heaters since the system may or may not use both during different times. I used the green wires and it worked perfect, killed the whole system at the flip of a switch.

This might be of interest. Theres a section on the forum strictly for researching these sorts of things and I started a thread on it long ago. Might shed some more light on things for you. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/5046-Better-to-idle-or-better-to-drive-on-a-cold-engine

:iagree:One thing I think might be interesting, where is everyone going for thanksgiving? I'm going from my place in columbia to my parents in sedalia. Little 40 mile drive.

I put these in the front inside the coils. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/air-80765/overview/year/1997/make/dodge/model/ram-2500 Completely worthless. All they seem to do is firm the ride up and prevent the stupid bouncing that happens when you go off the 6" drop offs that missouri's fine road construction crews leave behind. I run them at max pressure, anything less and I doubt they would do a thing. IMO, if you can pull off a regular air bag, not that in-coil style, you would be muchhhhhh better off. Plus getting them in the coil works about as good as uh, I cant say anything without it being a dirty joke.

I have the ride rite thingers, they just have the valve stem that I routed to right underneath the rubber grommet inside the tailgate. My tires leak more than those things. I never need to go over like 20psi and they are rated for 100. I have no idea what kinda insane load 100psi would take. I had our trailer packed, firewood to the bed rails and a 1000cc 4x4 4 wheeler on top of the firewood and that mighta been when I hit 20psi. They are great. I'm not sure how they would mount on coils though.

This is probably the best place to get it from. http://www.genosgarage.com/59L-CUMMINS-DIESEL-BARRING-TOOL/productinfo/TOOL_LTBT/#.UoQIJFykr38

You remind me of Clint Eastwood in Gran Turino. Older than the current generation (and MS to make matters worse) yet you can outdo them, teach them, and kick their *** if need be. Every time I read these stories from you it just reinforces that viewpoint even more. Keep at it Russ!