ISX

I would get any CR 5.9. I'm not sold on the 6.7. I think the later CR 5.9's are better (post 04.5?) but not sure, someone who owns one will chime in.

The fact that it didn't smoke before and does after they fixed something seems counterproductive. I would take the breather off and mark TDC on the dampner then rotate the engine clockwise (from the front) and watch valve overlap (watch the exhaust valve go down then back up but before it is fully up, the intake valve will start to go own, the instant you see it go down, stop) as it should overlap pretty close to the mark on #1 or #6. A cam that is a tooth off would put it pretty far off. When I was experimenting the other weekend, the valve overlap puts it realllly close to TDC (with stock 10/20 lash settings). It would be an easy indicator

Deja vu. I got a haircut today and the $%^& showed me the back of my head with a mirror just so I could see it's getting thin back there. I actually tell them not to touch the top at all, only the sides. I can go 5 haircuts without touching the top But my dad was bald at 19ish so I guess I'm lucky. As for your head, it's the stress of looking bald that keeps your head warm

Can you go into more detail about #6? I assume it was melted? Did you drive it like that? You said in the original post "Now it smokes" which makes me think it didn't smoke before even with the bad #6. More info we can get on what brought it to this point the better

The whomp sound and the fact that #6 is the same compression as the rest even after you replaced it makes me wonder. The oil consumption is also interesting. You bought the engine with #6 messed up so who knows what else could be wrong but nevertheless #6 should have tested good. Just sounds like all 6 intake valves are leaking or are just flat out all timed wrong but the cam is on a gear so the only possibility there would be the cam is a tooth off which I doubt but who knows. Just seems like something the previous owner did seems to have thrown everything off.

Every inch counts, even if it's just an inch taller that could mean an inch too short of jack. I was trying to think of why I didn't have it under the axle and I forgot it was the front that blew out. I couldn't get it under the A arm or whatever that is because the flat caused to drop to the ground so much. Meaning I had no choice but to jack it somewhere that required the full flex of the suspension before the tire would come off the ground. Thats where the jack came up short. Even a block that was long that I could set the truck on then add a block under the jack to jack it up some more would be a good idea. Or just don't let the tires wear to the point of blowout.

The OEM one isn't tall enough. It technically is for me (2wd) but it wasn't when I my tire blew and I was in the ditch. I don't trust idiots on the road and I pulled off the shoulder and into the ditch and jacked it up. I was on an exit ramp so probably overkill but eh. Anyways I ended up digging up some dirt to get the tire off the hub. All I would do different is bring like a 4 x 4 x however long block of wood with me and it would work fine. It takes forever since you manually screw it but it does do the trick. A 4wd truck if they use the same jack then I could see being a problem.

I would really question the $470 balancing (820-350).. The parts to rebuild the thing are like $100 on ebay. A new turbine/shaft is I think mine was $80. I imagine the compressor wheel is another $80. So seeing as how a rebuild just cleans the compressor/turbine assembly, it is a $100 parts job then labor. But here's the thing, Mike got more than that because of the damage the hose clamp caused. I think he had to get a new compressor wheel, turbine, compressor housing, $$$$. Which might be $400 in parts including the rebuild kit. The labor probably killed him is what I'm thinking.Still, I'm not sure a new one isn't the same $800. My brother seems to get them a dime a dozen with his company connections to get them straight from holset or wherever.

You are prolly over but the truck can probably handle the shear weight, its you who makes it safe or unsafe going 100mph or 50mph.. If that stupid ecoboost pulling the boat through kansas that I saw doing 80 had hit that crosswind any worse than he did he would have no boat or truck. At the same time, powerstroke guy pulling TT was sailing along at 60-65 as if he was on rails. Same as gun rights or anything else, you make it unsafe, not the object. A guy I worked for pulled 50k lbs of I beams to the scrap yard with his V10 dodge a mile away. I was with him, we did 20mph.. An advertisement for VW once had that TDI toureg (i think) pull a boeing airliner....at 5mph. And I know everyone has seen trucks well within their limits driven in a very unsafe manner weaving through traffic and riding peoples tailgates at 80mph+. The weight deal is an issue as too much tongue weight obviously breaks things but I think everything aforementioned is worse.

Fixed.

That definitely works. When I ride dirtbikes I sometimes wear a camelback (backpack full of water). The first time I wore it was when it was 100F and figured I should finally bring water. I had no idea how it soaked all the heat out of your back, it was downright awesome.

Technically he followed the rules. Technically I haven't followed the rules Rules state you can't download unless you are a standard member. You become a standard member by posting 20 times. That way, the site grows and the member fixes his truck. We could easily give give give and just be a reference site but then everyone would come in here and hog the server and kill the speed of those who want to interact. Personally......I would just set it to where they have to email a staff member if they want the file. I don't really think people who just want to fix their truck care to stick around and fix everyone else's trucks as well, they have lives, we have lives.. The effort required to email staff is enough to keep the traffic down as most people I assume would be too lazy to do it. Maybe we could discuss this in the staff section. Hmm actually I will just start a thread on this in the website section. I like to hear a majority input rather than just the staff. Why run this place like the government with everything in secret. Personal info I understand but I'm all for hearing input as a community rather than just the head honchos. I'm going to close this thread to keep others from posting to it since this isn't the right section but receives exposure so people will go to the other thread and post there instead. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/8174-File-Downloads?p=78642#post78642

I wouldn't touch it.. When it goes, you just put it in 4th gear, it doesn't leave you stranded or anything. The gear just slides off the splines and spins on the shaft. You can actually feel if it is loosening up. When you let off the clutch the engine is dragging on the gear, when you push the pedal you load the gear so it twists the other way and there is a certain amount of give/play in it. As the nut works it's way off, that "play" gets wider and wider because the nut has unscrewed and since the gear is helical, it slides down the shaft then hits the nut then "engages" on the splines. When I screw the nut back on, there is almost no play in it. It should be the same as all the other gears basically.. But yeah, don't fix what aint broke... I think the 24V trucks have a revised nut and that initial tightening and other tightening screws on the nut seem to "set" the nut in place and keep it there a long time. It's a very very complex issue that nobody has been able to really pinpoint. In my opinion it is the play that works the nut off. As in letting off and then getting back into it, working from loaded to unloaded gearing, hammering at that nut. That is why even tack welds break loose. Thing is, as with anything else, I don't know which of these rumors are from guys doing truck pulls and guys who just pull a TT every now and then. Many forums combine the 2 then you have guys with billet everything because they saw it break on a guys truck. The rumors never drag along facts like the guy popping the clutch with 50psi of boost or this or that. Meaning, tack welds might actually work.. I am very easy on the clutch and only punch it once it is engaged and I am already slightly loading the engine, I don't want to floor it and slam everything with the play in the gears, I want them to already be meshed. Be sane, stuff won't break

Put some water bottles in the fridge and sip on them. Bring a cooler with you in the car if you have to. Always kept me cool anyways Going to denver it was 110F through kansas and I have no a/c at all (haven't recharged it yet) but even drinking hot water helps as you can continue sweating your *** off

Here all you have to have is a class E license which is nothing more than taking the drivers test again and it just includes some CDL questions. You are still limited to non-airbrake trucks, it really is nothing but a pizza boy license.. I got mine 2 weeks ago so I could get a job with service trucks and such. All you did was go in, take a 25 question test, done.

I just can't win with this thing. I got it now Let me know what else you find

Well if you think about it, people do the same thing with 3/4 or 1 tons...loading them with a million tons because they don't want to buy something bigger. You can't fix stupid

You're killing me Mike! Fixed it. Thanks guesswho, good thing you're back around again

Didn't think of it like that. On my way to denver through kansas there was just constant 60mph crosswinds (explains the 10000 windmills) and I saw plenty of ecoboosts pulling bumper pull 30fters and absolutely fighting the hell out of it. They were all over the place. The speed limit is 75 there and those guys were doing every bit of it. I even got passed by an ecoboost pulling a boat and I was doing 75-80, just to watch him slam on the brakes when a strong wind almost shoved him right off the road. I then came up on a new F250 powerstroke pulling the same trailer going only 70 and he might as well have been on rails. So I guess manufacturers are doing it right by limiting power output, though they are still giving them enough power for stupid people to just hold it to the floor to get where they want pulling their trailer house. Actually I just happened to be taking pics of window stickers lately and I think it's the sticker shock that drives people away form making the 3/4 ton jump. Hmmm, thats comparing a work truck to a cadillac powerstroke lol but most seemed to have a 50k minimum for the powerstroke and 40k minimum for the ecoboost. That $8000 option is a pretty big deal breaker.

Yes it's for 4wd only, yes the tail housing is the issue, yes it happens to the 2wd ones, mine does it every 100k miles since I have never done anything permanent to fix it. After it initially happens, it just comes off easily from that point on if all you do is retighten the nut. Since my truck was used as a hotshotter and he pulled in 5th gear a lot, it quickly ripped the nut right off. I imagine a normal driver wouldn't have any issues till 200k or possibly never.

I think racism is driven by the "thugs and gangbangers" but at the same time the thugs and stuff have grown up that way because of racism. They think white people are against them and they become violent because of it and create all the drama seen in this case. So racism is driven from thugs, thugs are driven from racism, its a neverending circle that will probably go on for another 50 years.

Well welll http://www.ramtrucks.com/en/ecodiesel/ Still, 420TQ just puts it next to the ford ecoboost. There is no reason they can't stuff a 5 liter in it with 600TQ. There is definitely something fishing going on as to why they put such a turd in it. I am betting the intent is MPG and that would surely get it, if emissions doesn't get it first.

Heres some pics if anyone wants to see. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ohz47uqp5ushr0o/u-nxfCS3ue

My jeep gets around 18 on average so it's not too bad. I don't know if my dodge would get much better with the city driving crap. Plus it would never get up to operating temp in all these little jaunts.

The truck is parked for now. Been parked for a year ever since I had the tire blow out. I don't have the money or the need to drive it or fix it being in a big city now. The jeep flys around here effortlessly so driving that thing would just suck. It is basically just a trailer puller at this point but its a long ways from me having money again.