ISX

I'd like to see some accurate vacuum testing. The filter minder is about as crude as it gets, I'd like to see 0.1 vacuum precision and I could probably calculate everything based on that. I mean the dyno is testing it at max boost so although it's probably insignificant during cruising, it could make a difference during WOT. I'm not sure though, but would love to find out.

I wonder if the grid heaters are causing the voltage drop so the pump doesnt get enough power to maintain pressure until they turn back off.

Gradual drill size increments John That's the most important thing I can tell you that will solve most of your problems. I won't use anything but the high torque arm twisting drill given a choice, but yeah, you gotta be smart about it and don't bite off more than you can chew...as in going from a pilot hole straight to 3/4".. Good luck! You know where I live haha.1/4"-1/2"-5/8"-3/4"

2 weeks ago I went on my annual dirt bike thing and a guy asked me to drive his truck down there so he could ride his harley. It was a 2005 F250 5.4 auto. POS to say the least. I think you all know that you use the first half of the pedal for driving and the last half for passing..or at least I do. His was the last half the entire time or it wasn't moving, floored to go up hills. Anyways he has the biggest slide in camper he could get and its just marvelous to drive. When you turn, the whole truck rolls to one side a lottt, its very top heavy. The wind pushes it wherever it wants and you really have no control other than aiming for the center of the road. That's all you can do, so you just sit back, relax, aim for the center, and let the truck do whatever it wants. It is going to blow all over the road and this and that, you can't stop it, so don't try so hard. Let it do its thing and just constantly correct it, slowwwly.. Don't jerk it back straight, just widen your tolerances up a lot on where the truck should be at in the road. Without a trailer you can hold a 1 foot tolerance between the lines easily, with the trailer, let the lines be the tolerance. I mean its that simple, you can't control it as precise with a trailer, so understand that, get over it, and let it do its thing and drift around and dont be afraid of it. Your mirrors are wider than it (should be) so if the mirrors aren't going to hit the oncoming cars, then the trailer wont, so dont worry about it. It's just like in the sand with my dirt bike. When you turn, the bike pretty well just washes out and feels like you just turned on ice, but it is just sliding a little to get a little burm to have some traction to turn, like 5" of sliding, and that freaks everyone out. If you watched me ride you would never see my put my feet down and I am completely relaxed and you will watch the bike slide all over the place. It's normal, its going to happen, understand it and don't worry about it. If all else fails and you really want a good lesson, drive something much harder. Something with a big slide in for example haha. If you try and parallel park a semi and eventually get the hang of it, then how easy will it now be to park a prius.... By doing something much harder, things easier become MUCH easier. I used to think my ford was hard to drive until I drove my dodge, then I went back to my ford and it was like I was in a little car that I could park on a dime if I wanted. Same thing when I got out of that guys PITA F250 and got in my little jeep. Face the challenge! Understand it. It's just a trailer and some wind lol.

Have you gone through with a multimeter to make sure power is getting to each fuse? The PCM is turned on with the key switch and it can go bad and you would see that with no power at the fuse. Make sure and check both sides of the fuse, you should be able to just stick the multimeter probes on the tops of the fuses. Mike had a fuse blow that didn't look blown but was broke somewhere you couldn't see or something so thats why I say probe both sides. I assume you have a wiring diagram? If you have power going through all the fuses when the ignition is on like they all should, I would get a needle and start piercing wires to see if the ignition and grounds for the PCM are actually working correctly. The grounds are pretty crappy on these things. But it's definitely an issue of the PCM not doing anything. If all else fails, bring it to me and I'll fix it for free. Would love to have a PITA issue like this :hyper:THIS IS A 12V MIKE!!! lol no ECM.

What is the spec on the AC thing? How much is too much before it causes issues?

Yeah, bolts.. If you step up the drill bit sizes more you would minimize the metal the drill has to cut each time so you would have a better chance of holding on. You also should be going slowwwwwwww. Even a 1/4" drill bit that is sharp will cut through steel at crawling speeds. The faster you go the faster you dull the bit. Press harder, go slower, use cutting oil, and that bit will last forever. Also going slow means you can let go of the drill without injury easier. If you win the lottery you can use one of these http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/MILWAUKEE-Magnetic-Drill-Press-3F865 We always used them to drill through I-beams and its really slick. And yeah 3/4" might be a little big lol.

I get about the same boost numbers. Still, I would look for boost leaks and possibly reevaluate the turbo's condition.

Hour away from me, saw it in person last year

Got a point there. 15" tires are the new R12 freon..

It wont do anything we have I don't think. Does VW crap and semis and anything else we don't own. I'll have to look again.

Here is mine I got for xmas 2 years or something ago. Has everything but the one I need lol. But you can see how it works if you didn't already know. It goes into the quick release on the gauge hose. I have one adapter hooked up..

Yeah I think you are good with it being an HX35. I want to know more about what you see Boost/EGTwise at say 70mph on levelish ground. I have about as light of truck as it gets and 2wd low riding as well and see uh I think 5-7psi at 70. Been so long since I've driven it. But yeah you shouldn't be any lower than that is why I'm saying.. Otherwise I would be looking for leaks or turning the turbo shaft after the truck is warm to see how good it turns, check for side to side play etc. Something just seems like that turbo isn't dishing out what it's supposed to.

Are you sure its an HX35? I put a series 60 detroit turbo on mine once and the symptoms are identical to yours. That turbo was huge though so it was 10x worse than yours but your symptoms are still pretty similar. It did nothing unless I floored it and it would finally spool up to a mere 15psi. If you have something bigger than an HX35 (but smaller than the series 60 detroit haha) then I can see it causing all your problems. An HY to HX is not anywhere near as drastic as you are saying so thats why I am wondering. I mean wastegated or not, the spool up times aren't that different, not enough to cause huge egt issues. I am sure they sell the HX35 without wastegates but that is also something that makes me curious. So you might double check the numbers, otherwise, ignore this. Could also be worn out so it isn't spooling worth a crap. I am going to say you could get to 45psi nonwastegated if it was an HX35 on 5x5 but if its got a lot of coking on the shaft then its harder to turn and obviously results in less boost.

You have 17psi more boost yet the same max EGT....and the same power. Something is very wrong with that picture. That would be like me going up a steep hill at 70mph with the trailer at 20psi and you're saying you can do it at 3psi and get the same power and EGT Now I am not trying to criticize or anything but you can clearly see something is way off. The boost might be a little high but eh, not exactly 50psi like some of these guys are ignorantly running on an hx. Something is just way out of whack. Did you change anything else?

That things gotta be awesome. Get some pics under the hood sometime Oh and welcome to the forum.

Same weight as me.. I'm missing a spring so if you drop a penny on my pedal it goes to the floor. You must train your foot!! I have to be very very precise. I love it like that

Why wouldn't it work? You just do whatever to increase the fuel pressure on those. Plenty of 12V guys run them. Your foot is controllable..

If the ECM isn't reporting it right then you have to cheat it right? I don't care about the end result...I want to know how it all works.

How does it calculate GPH then? How does Mike use his scangauge for instant MPG? Or is he just cheating it with a bunch of correction percentages?

The spec is to not let it get under 25psi under a load. Nothing really happens under that but you have low power issues. The upper end spec is to not go over 45psi. I think the fuel filter housing cracks above that. I run around 25-35psi. 14 psi is very low and is usually caused by the overflow valve, they wear out a lot. Crap you already plan on doing this, I can't read.

I hate mowing, love weed eating So much more destructive feel in your hands.

I think no matter what you do, anything above ground is nothing but a target. You can hide under it but lets hope it doesn't collapse on you or a piece of cement doesn't crack and fall on you. The only failsafe way is to get out of the line of fire by getting below the sights. Being under the ground protects all of that. Thats why they say jump in a ditch if you have nothing else. Stuff can still fall on you but the bunker should be able to take anything but a train. I would imagine there to be bunkers in Oklahoma by now that people can flock to, but there is still the warning thing. Tornadoes are just too crafty. They drop out of the sky instantly. They can predict storms that are bad enough to make one but its hard to convince people to go to the bunker every single time. Most people are convinced their basement is fine, which it is for the most part. I have no idea where a bunker is so I imagine many others are just as oblivious to any around them. People all say get in your basement so everyone just finds a basement, simple. You can look at all the pics though and see the crap above them falls on them, so now you see the problem. Mother nature will always win, stay out of it's way, simple as that.

Cost of doing it, chance of it happening, the logic that tornadoes are unstoppable. I mean they pick up freight trains... So you can build a billion dollar structure of steel, but as you saw in Rogans pic, they pick up semi trailers.. Lets hope your structure was designed for 100mph semi trailers to be thrown at it. Most people simply dig a hole in the ground and build a little bunker or "tornado shelter" so then the semi flys across it since its at ground level (some are some arent). It's much cheaper, much safer, etc.. But, still something people don't have money for. There is also just the fact of it actually happening. One ripped through my parents town and tore up a little bit, but I doubt people care enough to install tornado shelters because of it. We get a lot of tornado crap every year but it doesn't really do anything a lot of times so most people don't care. Then it happens once and people rebuild, and still don't care. If it was oklahoma then I think they should reconsider, but its still a financial thing. I think a lot of people have a place to go but they don't get enough warning. Tornadoes happen pretty fast.

Well this could be very interesting. I never see any accurate results for mileage or anything on these swaps, or I don't trust the guys giving them. Note every difference that you notice no matter how small when you get this done.