ISX

Gas is $2.79 here as of yesterday. Hmmm, I just looked at this. http://www.gasbuddy.com/gb_gastemperaturemap.aspx I wonder why we are the lowest in the nation. Usually it's another state.

I don't know if you guys know this but the windshield wiper fluid wipes a light frosting right off.. I have done it every morning the last couple weeks. The only way I would do what you want is if you had a deep cycle battery that disconnected from the entire electrical system for the duration of energizing the grids. I put a little 50 amp relay on mine that was energized by the grid heaters which would switch the relay and open the "charging" wires that connected the one battery to the rest of the system. Was really nice since the voltmeter never budged since the grids weren't tied to the main batteries when they were on. I think the EGR stuff makes the air a lot hotter than a mere 130F. I mean my truck on a 100F day still takes forever to warm up. Meaning I am not sure if your idea would work very good. The principle is sound but I don't think it will help that much and could possibly burn up grid heater wires and such if you aren't careful.

If you track everything down and multimeter everything and cant find any shorts or anything, let me know and I can send you my PCM. It's a 1997 5spd, have to check with someone else to see if it would work.

I wonder if there's more to this. I mean it ran fine before I assume and now something is tripping the PCM up. Do you have wiring diagrams and stuff to double check things you may have brushed up against? You can get them in the downloads section.

If it were me I would try a different PCM if you have a buddy. Hopefully it doesn't fry his as well but the PCM does everything you listed.

Yes anything 22 was gone.

I was at bass pro yesterday and noticed the shelves are still wiped clean. Seemed to be plenty of 223 ammo though.

Yeah stodg is probably right about that too. The cooling jets keep the pistons happy. Truth be told, I have seen 1500F in my stupider days, truck still works fine. Thing is, there are many factors that could work against you. The black smoke residue crap could cake the EGT probe and insulate it, giving you a lower reading than actual, so you could melt a piston even though the EGT gauge never showed anything insane. The 1200 rule is the safety margin basically, what stodg said is fine too. Beyond that you might be fine (like I was), but it is risky and potentially very costly. If you need more power than the EGT gauge allows, you need to be looking at turbos or other things to fix it. Air first, then fuel...

1200 is the limit. That is actually where aluminum melts (the pistons) but there are oil cooling jets that spray the bottom of the piston to cool it off, so 1200 is basically the limit. Anything higher and you are flaking bits off the top of the piston. But 1200 you can stay at all day.. Might be an elementary question but everyone here was in your same position so ask away. Information can be hard to dig up on the internet, especially valid information.

Broke mine too. Threw it in the trash and got a digital one. I can't stand the "somewhere between 140 and 190" crap, I want specifics.

My jeep started doing that crap. It got worse and worse until the stuff on the floor was on the dash. Oddly enough, rotating the tires fixed it. Was doing it 10 times a day, hasn't done it for a month now since rotating. No clue what the deal is. It was the passenger side front.

Yeah I've seen the link 20 times now. Here's something from that page as well.. Anyways I am talking about 0 acceleration.... That entire page is on inertia which is the resistance in a change of motion. By 0 acceleration, I am talking no change in motion. That means that entire page doesn't apply to what I am talking about since it is talking about acceleration. Now dorkweed makes a point of some differences but I am not sure of how much stress it actually accounts for. Does it account for 1 or 5mpg worth.. To me if acceleration is factored out (cruise control), then you are left with frictional drag differences. If the tires have similar drags, I think the cruise control MPG's will be identical, irregardless of tire weight (though the bearing thing might add to it). In all my days of driving, accelerating quickly is the only thing that ever drags my MPG down.

I have some things I want explained in greater detail....What is the difference on bearing loading for different wheel/tire setups? I mean the weight of it sits on the ground and the car didn't change weight so the bearing load would theoretically be the same. Meaning bearing frictional differences would be the same with any wheel/tire. What is the difference in rotational wind resistance between tires of different sizes (not straight forward head on resistance, just rotational turbulence). In my feeble mind, an object with similar surface tread surfaces and similar width/diameter, would have equal rotational force required to keep it at the same velocity. Read that carefully...I am talking about an acceleration of 0... So what I mean is a flywheel from a steam engine that weighs 1000lbs and a reproduction of it that weighs 100lbs (made of plastic), would require the same forces to keep it spinning a set velocity with 0 acceleration. Why? Because they have the same rotational wind resistances (they are replicas of each other as you recall). The only thing that would matter is the friction from the bearing loading. Put them both on some sorta weird magnetic levitating bearing and then tell me, is there a difference in the force required to keep them both spinning 1000RPM?.... Im pretty sure they would have the same force. Not sure cause I'm never right but thats my theory. To me the only factor in tire sizes/weights is the factor of acceleration, which is the title of that inertia article. Obviously in the previous example, the 1000lb flywheel is going to take a lot more force to spin up to 1000RPM than the 100lb plastic replica at the same rate of acceleration. However.......by varying time, you could theoretically apply the same force to both and stop when each reached 1000RPM. The heavy flywheel would take a longgggg time to get up to speed while the plastic one wouldn't. In conclusion, I think acceleration in the end is the only real difference. Tread patterns cause differences in road friction, surface area causes differences in wind resistance, but in the end, 2 similar wheel/tire combinations of completely different weights would equate to equal mileages on the highway in my mind because you have 0 acceleration and all other forces are equal. So we have the mileage differences.....which I believe will be experienced more from people who accelerate often (stoplights, etc) than those who don't. I think tread pattern and differences in wind resistance are what changes things for similar weight setups concerning 0 acceleration scenarios.Mike also told me how he accelerated in the old days and he didn't waste any time getting up to speed lol. I accelerate veryyy slowly when I am getting all my 27mpg readings. Someone else on here told me the best they had ever got out of a jeep like mine was 18.5, but I am getting 22 religiously at this point. One interesting thing I read a while back was that wider tires are actually better because the deformation caused by narrow tires takes a lot of energy to deform, kinda like having a flat tire. By deforming I mean where the tire touches the road and flattens out... With a wide tire, the surface area means more weight distribution and less deformation, whereas a narrow tire deforms a lot more because of all the weight on the smaller surface area. Alright, tear my theories apart now

Yeah I mentioned the oil pan lol. I want to see oil temp readings in the summer vs winter to back this up though. I mean the oil pan isn't aluminum so I'm not sure just how big of an effect 8 or so inches by maybe 5 inches of cold steel has on the oil. Steel doesn't exactly transfer heat that good so to me it's kind of a crapshoot to say if it plays a big factor or not until I see some oil temp readings. Ideally a gasser is the only thing to have in the winter from what I can tell. They put a lot more heat into the coolant due to inefficiencies. Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmm is it possible to run the espar unit while driving? I mean with a gasser you are paying for the heat by using more fuel than a diesel truck, so if you used more fuel (in the espar) you would have the same effect of getting more heat.

I don't think there is actually a fix to this other than an EGR.. I think dorkweed is the closest to a solution. Radiators do nothing until the engine is up to temp. I have completely blocked mine off and ran 2 identical tests on 2 identical 10F days and there was 0 difference between completely blocked off and completely wide open as far as how long it took to get to operating temps. I have a digital water temp gauge so I can see exact temps. I stopwatched it....the times are identical. The radiator does nothing if the engine doesn't have a reason to use it. I don't run a thing at this point. I challenge anyone to do the exact same 2 identical tests before challenging that.. Insulating the engine would be a good thing, but I think another big part of the problem is air touching the inside of the engine. By that I mean the incoming air.. The intercooler easily takes any heated air (from turbo compression) back down to ambient temps, meaning the engine is sucking in that 0F or below air. The intake manifold is completely aluminum and probably absorbs a lot of the engine blocks heat and the constant flow of freezing air keeps the manifold/engine cooled. In a sense, the incoming air and everything it touches, act as the engines "radiator". I bet the oil pan being open to outside air also aids in cooling things, but I've never measured oil temps in the winter compared to summer. At 10F going 50mph, I drove for 35 miles and it just got to 170F and never got any higher, with the heater on full blast. The thermostat never opened and the 10F radiator temps from the IR gun when I pulled in the driveway reinforced that. The heater core was taking away all the excess heat. Radiator didn't play a factor.. To me, since the radiator doesn't do anything until its up to operating temps, I would block the intercooler if anything. However, you barely build any boost just cruising down the highway so the air isn't getting very hot so you can't try and retain heat that isn't being built. Hence, the EGR.... Pieces of crap but they take the hot exhaust heat and run it back through the engine, warming it up. I see that as the only solution that would actually help matters.

Not my truck lol

Doesn't work quite so well on a truck with 450k miles I noticed. Flywheel teeth are so worn down that the barring tool gear pops over them.

These things have had a lot of recalls on the throttle cables.. Might check that out if anything.

John there are guys on CF getting screwed all the time one way or another... Drive it, criticize every part on it, drive it again...get the title crap figured out first. Honesty has gone out the window in current times, get everything in your favor legally before trying to wager a trucks worthiness on that guys "trust". They all act nice, tell you what you wanna hear.... It's just a truck john....you can barrow mine eternally if you put the pump back on it

$3.62! Jesus! We hit $2.99 a couple days ago :tease:Jeep is averaging 21mpg on the highway at this point. 65mph seems to be the sweet spot.

Penetrating oil....let it soak for an hour, don't be shy, be liberal. I used liquid wrench on bolts from a powerstroke turbo and took the turbine housing bolts out with nothing but my bare hands, no vice or anything. I let it soak for probably a day though.

Damn vegetarian bears

http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/4700-Getting-up-to-speed-with-the-94-98-5-12V-engine http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/882-12v-Cummins-FAQ Those 2 should give you a very good idea. As for the 5th gear nut, you just don't have 5th gear... Put it in 4th and keep going. Mine went and I said oh, put it in 4th and drove the rest of the 50 miles.

I go past the missouri river at least once a week. I call it americas gutter cause there is nothing but crap in it. Trees, mud, trash. Hence the reason I told Mike long ago that the creek water thing isn't something that should be pushed. His creek water isn't the same as the creek water somewhere else. I mean there is no way to be sure of whats in it.

You can't tell me a trailer can't be hooked onto a tractor and taken a hell of a lot deeper into the abyss than that dump truck could ever go. Yes I can tell your set on it. It's like a new computer. You know it will be faster and more powerful and have the potential to handle stuff for years to come. However, windows xp crap can handle internet and email like 80% of the world does with ease.. It's a mind game. You want the truck so you have a 12v to play with. If you have the money to buy either one then let your mind make the choice, buy the truck...Oh a much better example is the iphone haha. Every model has another insignificant feature that nobody uses. People prebuy the damn things though because they want the pointless feature so bad. In the end, people still do nothing but text and talk...same thing black and white phones from 10 years ago did. They just do it a little better now.