wil440

proper old fashioned mechanical gauge here, the less electrical stuff on my truck the better

In your first post you describe the problem as a shudder or very quick cutout, my truck did the same thing maybe a year ago, just felt like it was off for a really short time and repeated say every second or so until I backed off, if I drove really steady it wouldn't happen but the more the go pedal was pressed the worse it got OR the bigger the grade/load. On my truck it was fuel pressure, It had a Fass direct replacement bolted to the block. I removed the pump and went mechanical..... problem gone, never hickups at all now. I see you have 14psi fuel pressure, is this on a mechanical gauge or electric, if electric I'd be testing that with a mechanical one as a reference. One another note .... how old is the fuel filter ??

I installed mine about a year ago, I don't have the time to build a tune so I downloaded 2 from here, both for stock truck as aside from Low pressure fuel system mine is stock and auto so being in the UK I cannot break a trans, no one here to rebuild a trans so it would be me and then it's back to time..... anyway I have a towing and DD tune, With just these 2 tunes set as they were written the truck is totally different, more mpg, smoother and more power, tows my 5th much easier too. I was more than happy with it, but I had a adjustable boost valve which I'd never fitted ...... that thing time again...... fitted yesterday..... now I really do need to be careful with the trans, I'll certainly not be going bigger injectors bigger turbo until better trans is ticked off the list. Someone no doubt will be along to advise you better as I said I haven't done anything with mine but fit it and load 2 tunes

I'll take my chances with the mechanical

The axle casing needs stretching slightly (for want of a better description) to get the carrier out, either side of the cover you will see 2 holes maybe 1/2" ish diameter this is where it fits https://www.randysworldwide.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/02/Dana_Spicer_Housing_Spreader.pdf It looks scary but it's not, I've done a few

Same here. Mechanical is the way. Only time you need to prime is the first dry time and if you ever do it takes a couple of minutes anyway. Never have to worry about fuel pressure again

Wouldn't hurt to change oil and add friction modifier first and while you draining it check for bits. As for rebuild you will need to either slightly press the casing top to bottom or make a tool which uses the 2 holes to do the same then separate the carrier if my memory serves me right

It is not the cold that's the biggest problem here. Our winters are predominantly wet with temperatures usually not lower than - 10c. Every morning the inside of the windows are covered in condensation sometimes frozen mostly not. Block heater means it will be dry sooner and less idling means a happy neighbor and truck too

5.9 isn't known for runaways so mainly no problem, maybe a precaution to have something to block off intake when changing turbos this was meant to happen but still dramatic https://www.thedrive.com/news/36023/the-aftermath-of-a-diesel-engine-that-ran-full-throttle-for-eight-minutes

Thing is here while I'm away from neighbours it's not quite the same as USA away from neighbours so if and when it does get cold here which as we are surrounded by sea is later than most land locked countries as the water brings warmth I'll plug it in to save running the truck early in the mornings so the heater can clear the screen sooner, this way my neighbour is happy as it's parked maybe 20ft from his house as my drive goes straight past his house and of course I park it away from my house

Fly lead arrived this morning exactly what I needed, truck is plugged in and being tested to see how long it needs

My guess on that would be Parts List 1 torque convertor 1. transmission 1. Engine 2. front fenders 1. Hood 1.Windshield And whatever else the shrapnel took out

Not typically the turbo that explodes first, the crank/rods/pistons have a much lower tolerance of RPM. Think of it this way as long as the turbo has oil feed it's sort of ok but feed it engine internals and it will explode Stop the air you will cut rpm no matter what the engine is using for fuel I just remembered another 2 stroke, Rootes themselves made a smaller one, Rootes was a car manufacturer here up until the 60's but they made 2 stroke diesels for Commer and other trucks, these were reknown for running backwards, if you let the clutch out and it sort off nearly stalled it could easily run backwards, so you pull off in 1st it switches and you're in reverse which is one of 4 Gardner diesels would also run backwards but they were 4 stroke these would start with next to no crank movement either foreward or backwards I just remembered Chrysler bought out Rootes

Well detroit diesels were famous for the sump oil runaway being a 2 stroke diesel they had/have much less liner area as it's all intake port, liners then wear and it will suck engine oil, this goes on until BOOM, bit like a world war 2 shell going off with chunks everywhere, Detroit use a intake flap that shuts ALL air into the engine, but there is 2 drawbacks to this. 1. Once flipped the intake shuts and Straight 6, V8 and V16 all with Roots superchargers manage to suck ALL engine seals inside out within a second, end result is a complete engine stripdown BUT at least engine parts are still in one piece and not in the next field and fished out the dirt with a magnet. 2. Downside number 2 is the worst, on the earlier Detroits certainly fitted to Terex dumptrucks the flap had a tiny lever on it painted red, this lever was under the long bonnet inbetween the V right next to the supercharger...... needed swingers like a bull elephant to get in there and flip that bad boy, seen one once when I was maybe 28..... every single person within 100yards ran off, me included. So if a cummins does run away rip the aircleaner tube off and and put something over the turbo intake, preferably steel, certainly not your hand In fact when something goes wrong with this site there is a movie comes up with a guy doing the same thing

No I've never seen turbo oil seals tested they are build and forget as they usually are ok, kinda like a piston ring seal in the larger stuff. Also in the larger stuff it is almost never done to rebuild a turbo, worn out is bin as engine is way too much ££ to mess around, some cat stuff doesn't even carry a core charge and typically removed between 10000hrs and 15000hrs to be safe alongside water pumps. Quarry close to me replaced 4 engines in 2 6030 excavators last weekend, 32litre Cat engines which are also fitted in the 777 dumptruck...... just to be safe now that is big ££££. Plenty of history around here Jag, do a search on Grace Dieu ruins, 3 miles away, monastery 2 miles away, bradgate park ruins 8 miles away, loads of disused railway tracks that that idiot Beeching closed in the 60's one is just 200 yards from my house Sorry derail alert !!!!

It's quite normal for turbos to be off, it would be put together on a jig lt could be the right jig or just a jig to get it together, I'm talking new manufacturer as typical these do not use skilled labour. I used to work for caterpillar and if 2% of the factory was skilled that would be it, old matey wouldn't have a clue why he is clocking a turbo mostly he wouldn't even know what it was in front of him. It did stay together correctly when you clocked it? This is more so if circlips hold it together

I wished I lived in the USA I'd be dropping my trans off tomorrow.

We only have one domestic plug and socket, 2 industrial, which is one for 240v and one for 110v. You must have more than that As for driving I'll take a guess as to why we're on the left. I think it's to allow knights on horseback to pass with the right sword arm free and on the outside.... No good for me as I'm left handed Not everyone does it all the time. Visitor to the country struggle with that small detail Jag... Left side it is Here anyway Anytime I'm in a country that drives on the right I do practice if I'm not driving like in my head. Usually I get it wrong within 10 minutes

I have gone from a work Ford Transit and my truck parked on the drive festering in the winter with bucketfuls of condensation on the inside to my truck is my work vehicle, pulls a box trailer workshop and it's just at 165 ish K It's now dry inside and will last better for the use I'm sure Totally agree on the dodge bit....... babying the trans, careful of ALL electrics and deleting as much as possible, grid heaters and fuel pump and PCM fuse Fuel here is a killer @ £1.20 plus a litre but I figure that tax man pays for that Would really like a real US 5th wheel flat bed with my box on the front and a bed for transporting but here thats silly ££

I did start a topic on this earlier but deleted it as I was soooo confused on what I needed to use the block heater in the UK. I have a 110v transformer as households here in the UK use a much more deathly 240v, all work sites use 110v so 240v to 110v transformers are rather common BUT our 110v uses totally different plugs and sockets and heavier cabling also, so I was going to ask what I needed to connect to the block heater plug at the rad support but after switching between several USA sites and several open ebay pages I found a company here supplies the very item, only small problem it's amazon and I for one think Mr Bozo is rich enough without my ££. On it's way delivered tuesday. Never really bothered about the block heater before as my truck was always a hobby, not anymore it now tows my mobile workshop and 5.00am starts and the warmup time is not good for local relations I must say your electrical plugs/sockets/leads etc are really confusing

Not too far away from us except... We're per litre and you per gallon, your gallons are smaller but we're still 3.5 to 4 times more £. It's all relative though as I live in the midlands so £100 to £200 gets me most places in the UK except for maybe the far north of Scotland. If you paid the same for fuel as us some of you wouldn't get to a shop for £200 ⛽

So is the 18 cents a gallon the total tax or is there local tax too. Only asking as here in the UK petrol is around £1.19 a litre and diesel is more, tax is over half the cost

What does FP drop to.... my truck had a Fass DDRP and it started to feel like it shut off for a VERY small period of time in very quick succession, it would do this until I backed off a little, only in 4th lockup and on it. FP was dropping to 5psi ish Ripped the entire fuel system out and redone the lot, I went mechanical and on it i'm in the low 20's PSI never misses a beat now, fuel temps never over 120f and a lot of return flow even at idle As for the quad, i've never looked at a timing curve on mine, load a tune and go.... don't have time at the moment to figure it out and with a stock trans it's more than enough on a downloaded tune, I also doubt a quad would cause a vp to quit without it was quitting anyway

I'd agree with a quad. Best thing I did on my truck and I haven't had time to tune anything just downloaded one tune for towing and one for when not towing. Truck runs a huge amount better. Just now need a trans build and I'm good to go

One halfway decent for 600000 people is great. UK 66 million people..... good trans shops ...... forget it, more good trans shops on the moon than here in the UK