Old_Sparky

The Hopkins sound more like what I need. With dark windows and a camper shell, backing up at work at night in the rain can be a real pain. I need something that can see wide angle to help me out, not just something to help hook up a trailer once or twice a year.

I replaced my linkage with the 2009 version. Much tighter, much larger parts. It was a simple bolt-on replacement from the tie rod ends to the pitman arm. I did not replace the pitman arm.

The best method I have found takes 30 minutes or less. 1000 grit, 1500 grit, 2000 grit wet sanding. $10 bucks for three packs at Wally World, gives you enough to do 5 or more sets of headlights.

Mine had 3157's in them. I changed them out for the RetroSolutions LED backup lights bulbs. Much brighter now. Ended up putting one of the old backup bulbs in as a turn signal bulb later. One advantage of them being the same (3157).

I have been told by several people that the best way to prevent them from fogging up again after cleaning is to put a coat of polyurethane on them. I replaced mine with a set from LMC instead.

I have had my Ultragage for about a year now. It has worked well for me. I had to calibrate it for mileage, and find that as long as I drive the same route about the same way it does real well. If I go crazy with the driving, it does not do as well. One problem I have found is that once in a great while it won't turn on. I have to unplug it from the OBDII port, then plug it back in and it works fine once again.

I drive a semi all day long, rowing the 10 speed as needed. Way too much shifting to put in my truck. unless that 10 speed is synchronized, I can shift my NV4500 a whole lot faster.

Simple problem, the park switch is broke and forgets to tell the wiper motor where to stop.

I am ready to upgrade the front disk brakes on my truck now that I have the 17" rims/tires on it. What recommendations do you have for new disks/pads? My budget will only allow a total of $300 for rotors, brackets and pads, so please keep this in mind. Fancy rotors may be nice to have, but the budget is my limitation.

I am looking at some 125 hp injectors this summer. I am figuring that if I turn the Juice all the way down and keep my foot out of it I should be able to minimize the smoke. If I do hammer it, I am still hoping to keep the smoke level very low. I do understand that if I turn the Juice all the way up and hammer it, I will get a lot more smoke, but hopefully not too much. Once I get the cash later for a new turbo, that should take care of the smoke ( I hope).

Rogan, This makes it look very easy. I do have power door licks now, so this shouldn't be too difficult. Is the diagram you have here for a factory system, or an aftermarket version?

This is all good, but is there a way to add remote keyless entry to my truck that did not come with it?

I do not have the remote keyless entry, but would like to add it. Does anyone have information on how to add this to my truck?

I found out from another forum that the A/C runs in the floor/vent position. If the floor only or vent only is selected, the A/C does not run. Thanks for all the replies and assistance.

My goal is to add 125 hp sticks, or 150 hp sticks if I have enough to add a turbo at the same time. It's my DD, and I have to drive downtown St. Louis to work so I really need to keep the smoke to a minimum.

After driving a semi all day, I find that my NV4500 is enough shifting for me.

I just wish there was an easier way to add the remote key lock/unlock to trucks like mine that did not come with it originally.

I did this when I first bought my truck. The previous owner had wore out the front brakes to the point that the disk ate into the caliper. Hard to buy a new caliper, rotor, and pads to get me going again. Now that I have the 17" rims on, I am planning on upgrading the front brakes to 2004 version, larger disks and pads.

I bought a K&N two years ago when I bought my truck, complete with heat shield and tube. I am planning on replacing the air filter with a BHAF. The tube and heat shield still work very well.

Wild and Free, this makes more sense. Not sure why the factory decided to do it this way and not put the snow flake on the dash for us.

The problem is I do not have defrost selected. I am only using the floor selection or the floor/vent selection. In either of these, the A/C should not be running as far as I know. I am wrong on this?

While changing the oil on my truck last night, I noticed that water was draining from the A/C hose from the firewall. I have not had the A/C on for the last month. I have the dash selector set to floor or floor/vent. With the engine running, I watched the A/C compressor cycle on and off. What would cause the A/C compressor to cycle on and off when the A/C is not selected? Sorry, posted this in the CR forum by mistake, so am posting it here now.

While changing the oil on my truck last night, I noticed that water was draining from the A/C hose from the firewall. I have not had the A/C on for the last month. I have the dash selector set to floor or floor/vent. With the engine running, I watched the A/C compressor cycle on and off. What would cause the A/C compressor to cycle on and off when the A/C is not selected?

Since my timer is in the garage, I plugged it into an extension cord, then plug the block heater into the timer. That way I can keep the timer plugged in all the time.

I will have to give this a try next time I get off work when it is really cold, just to see what happens.