fire176969

Kinda sounds like you have an ecm dying or dead.

When I checked the pressures on mine they were actually higher than that. With 4th locked up I was getting approximately 170 psi. The only one I didn't check was the front servo in reverse but if I'm thinking correctly through the powerflow of these transmissions the front servo doesn't have anything to do with reverse so 0 psi would be correct. I'm trying to find my service manual now to double check but not having much luck remebering where I placed it. Found my manual, there is no fluid in the front servo when in reverse and no pressure specification listed for the front servo. However the rear servo minimum is 145-175 psi with a max of 230-280 psi.

Not sure if it would help the waterline issue, but these things are awesome for heat. http://www.espar.com/products/fuel-operated-heaters.html http://www.espar.com/products/fuel-operated-heaters/applications/rv.html

The movement you have between the wheels is about the same as my truck. Just rebuilt the rear diff in mine. The sound/pulsation is most likely the clutches in the rear axle. Either the friction modifier that is supposed to be added to the oil was forgotten or has broken down. You said something about the tire wear, if you have a lot of tight turns and the diff is locked constantly for the most part you will have it. One seemingly popular thing to do to the rear diffs in these trucks is to restack the clutches in the rear so the axles will be more solidly locked together. They were not very effective in keeping the wheels turning the same speed from the factory due to how the clutches were stacked. I restacked mine for more aggressive locking when I rebuilt the rear and have very similar sounding clicks and a pulsation going around tight turns. Haven't really had any excessive tire wear though.

They left out he clip where he flips it over and it bursts into flames.

I highly doubt the heat had any effect on the oil sealing of the head gasket. Could be the front cover leaking and traveling back the top of the block. That would be more likely than the head gasket leaking oil at the rear.

Might want to check a little closer. From what I can find on quickserve there isn't any oil around the headgasket at the rear of the head. It is possible that the oil is leaking out the tappet side of the head gasket and running back. Haven't personally had the head off of one to look at the gasket, but thats how it looks.Just checked out the oil flow diagram and the closest oil galley to the rear of the head gasket is in front of #6 cylinder.

I also have larger than stock tires and still think 4.10s are a little to low of a ratio IMHO. Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

I agree with the gears, although I think 4.10s are excessive unless you never unhook a trailer. I'm planning on swapping my gears when i get the time and extra money but am going with a 3.73 ratio. I don't tow very often but when i do it is something heavy and from my experience with other trucks the 3.73 ratio is about the best all around gear to have. Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

If yours are anything like mine were the first time i took the wheels off i had to break out the 3/4 air impact to get them off. Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

I almost don't want to change from the hy, kinda has the jet engine sound when you hit over 20 psi from the exhaust rushing through the housing and wide open waste gate. Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

I usually have to retype everything i go to post because i can't remember what was already posted, lol. I just went way to far into explaining it. Used a mile as a distance instead. Glad you spoke up, i re read what i put and made my own head hurt, lmao Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

From experience the 4" exhaust won't help lower your EGT's. Raising the boost pressure doesn't seem to help either. I'm stuck with my HY35 until money isn't so tight and I have seen my boost pressure hit and sit at 40 psi and the EGT gauge peg at 1500.This is with a turbo back 4" exhaust system.

Southeast part of the state here

Welcome, which part of the buckeye state you in?

It had close to 200,000 on it in the fed ex truck when it was rear ended.Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

I did see a 53 block from a FedEx truck put in a dodge and was cracked within 2 weeks. Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

I have a hotrod vp and an edge comp maxed out with the baby hy35 turbo and it takes mine about 3-4 minutes idling to get to 300 degrees Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

I'm guessing you have disc brakes on the rear, if you mentioned it i missed it but from the year you should. You might want to pull the tires and rotors and check the parking brake shoes before you adjust them. When I replaced my rest wheel bearings I found my parking brake shoes in pieces sliding around in the drum.Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

Thanks for completely ruining my over explanation, lmao. Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

I also forgot about the rear spider gears, diff bearings and wheel bearings I replaced. Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

The grade is a measurement of the slope of a hill. It is calculated by using a given distance(normally 1 mile for roads) and the height difference from start to finish. Rise over run is the easy way to say it. For example if you have a rise of 850 feet over a distance of 1 mile you have a 16% grade. 850/5280=.16098485. You multiply yoiur answer by 100 and that gives you the percentage. I definitely used a calculator for that specific number, I'm good at math, but not at this time of day,

I don't think you have a heater core issue, there is coolant in the heater core even when the heater isn't being used. It sounds like you have a coolant leak with cold temperatures. I would check for signs of coolant tracking at all your hoses and gaskets. The most common one I have seen is a radiator hose clamp leaking when temps get down pretty low.

With the 35's on my truck and the 3.54 gears I'm at 1250 RPM in OD at 55MPH. I think it was around 1600 at 70MPH but I am not on the interstate going those speeds very much so I don't remember for sure.

In my dealings with the rear end in my truck, a Dana 70-U2, there is no difference in the housing center section regardless of the brand of truck. The 4.10 gears would probably be lower than you want, really cranks the RPM's at cruising speed. The dodge rear should have the factory limited slip in the carrier, if you take it apart and restack the clutches inside it basically becomes a spool. I restacked mine when I replaced the diff bearings and it feels like a detroit locker when the clutches actually do let the tires turn at different speeds. With 35's and 3.54 gears you would probably be turning close to 1250 RPM's at 55MPH. The speedo works off the transmission, the sensor in the rearend is for the abs system.