Stanley

Looks beautiful, cant wait to see that country side one day.

Oh I see what you were going for. Personally, I always either premix the concentrated stuff or buy premix what ever the case may be then add as needed. Yes it all gets mixed the same after pumping through a few times but, Im ocd and I always know I have the correct dilution. The thermostat fill @Mopar1973Man stated is one of the best ways to go and its super easy, I do this method myself.

I dont have any good info your you and I feel dumb, but I am curious on this. As many times as I've removed dodge seats I've never found a wiring "harness" for the buckle. Im guessing that there is a sensor on the seatbelt retractor. All mine I've dealt with have been single cab and I've also never taken the seatbelt out or had a problem with it. This is probably why I don't know anything about it... So I'm here to learn, but I'd bet that the sensor is on the retractor. I'm sure someone else will chime in shortly.

Did I miss something? 3 gallons of concentrate and only 1/2 gallon of water? What happened to 50/50 mix? That's all I've ever done or even known for that matter. Even as a JD mechanic.

Looks nice! I did the same thing. I running some big boys under my hood from John Deere since I worked there lol. I ll have to do some pics on mine. I just modified the oem battery tray to make them fit. The LRB stuff is nice but pricey...

Only good suggestion(s) you will hear is either red top or blue top. There is a couple threads/topics on here talking about them if memory serves me right. I narrowed down to get a blue top. Its a long story but they were the same company but the owners split up at some point. Their are some differences but minimal. Good luck.

LMC truck has them also. Here ya go. Lmc truck washer res link

I might try and sell my whole NV5600 manual setup. That would prolly get most of the money for a built trans. Anyone need a full NV5600, 6spd 4x4 swap??? With t-case? Prolly sell axles/rolling frame too, D70 and D80, both disc brakes, 4.10's with detroit truetrak differential, mag hytec cover Suspension?

I wouldn't even bother with trying to fix it. A new one is only like $30 or you could find a used one on FB market place for $5-$10... Save yourself the headache.

I would pull the water pump and inspect it and the rubber seal since it there no coolant in it. The gasket is like $3, new pump $60 (orielly's) if there is any inclination that the bearing has play or is starting to seize. You can have you alternator checked as well while your in there with the belt off, that would eliminate a charging issue, and its free. I agree with @Tractorman a coolant pressure test is definitely needed, check your engine oil and level just in case you blew a head gasket. After that its on to wiring, fuses, etc. Your app is showing no codes and the key on/off is showing the 4 codes? I, or as anyone else would say, do not trust the factory pump and don't chance it. Get a Fass system as soon as you can. At a minimum, since you just got it, change the fuel filter(s). Rule of thumb for me on any used vehicle is all the oils changed, and ALL new filters. My 🪙🪙

Even just for a fun play truck, grocery getter, type deal? Im no stranger to rowing gears, small and big trucks. I have never driven a go-fast play truck with an auto though. The auto calls for me lol but the headache, price, and complexity keep leading me back to manual... Im just trying to justify which one, and its a booger.

Yes indeed, carpet is on the "to get list" The list of stuff to do and get is quite long but the plan is coming together nicely!

Ive heard the nv4500 are alot simpler/easier than the nv5600. The 56 the case has to be dropped onto the whole stack of everything and its a pain the line up! Im mainly asking those questions in the sense I am going only going auto, aside from the first one which was should I stick to my guns and go auto or go the simple route of the 5spd. Lol

I have always had a manual on all of my 2nd gen cummins trucks, mainly due to the obvious reason's we all know with dodge transmissions, to include failure, reliability, strength, and PRICE (auto), especially when you add any power to it. So now I am trying to do a crash course on auto transmission in 2nd gens cause I am clueless on everything/anything with them. Man this is making me feel so dumb... Gonna be trying to learn about lockup, torque converter stall, billet this and billet that, what auto parts, auto computers or tuners?, etc... I am so so so tempted to put a nv4500 in this build, just for the availability and strength! Please reference 24v 1500 Cummins Thread check it out in the cummins swap section) 1999 Ram 1500 Shortbed 2wd Cummins Inspiration Video of what I'm going for But I think Ill regret it in the end since this will be a play truck obviously. (Keep in mind I plan to try and keep power around or below 600hp) Ill just be spinning the tires irregardless in this light truck... NO - I have rebuilt my NV5600 before (for my truck in sig) but I think rebuilding an auto would be way out of my league even with my extensive mechanic background with JD. So Ill list just a few questions/thoughts to start with for the well versed auto guys. 1- Should I still go for an auto over a simple nv4500? 2- Could I rebuild an auto? (this could expand into another big discussion via what parts/brand etc.) 3- Who/where would you choose to send a core to and have them rebuild it for you? $$Suncoast - ATS$ Transmission - ETC

Ill just have those "2500" lowering springs up front. I guess I forgot to put the link in for the build Im following. Check it out, pretty sweet rig! 1500 Cummins YT video