klcammie

got to love easy cheap fixes. glad all worked out well

from what i've heard when rebuilt the shaft has to be balanced to something like 100 k. I think sending it out or get a rebuild would be easier. just my 2 cents.

I like, looks great.

LARRY B's is the place to get contacts. Like others said about an hour. Starter works like new.

alright glad to hear you up and running. also glad it turned out simple and easy once found.

Also how about the 140 amp fuse in the power dist. box under the hood, or the starter relay?

I vote BHAF. I have been VERY happy with mine. I had an K&N when got the truck. evertime check turbo blades were oily and dirty. 18 months and 20k later blades dry and clean. WORTH every penny and time to mount. I wished I had heard of the 2x4 way of mounting, getting them 3 bolts out was PIA. well live and learn.

Thank you. Just got back in town. Mine is the HD as described. Will try sometime this week. Again thanks.

Could you give a little more info on this. I would like to center the wheel better. Does it change the alinement?

I would remove neg. cables first. Other then that no speical items. Did mine 6 months ago no more problem with tach. Maybe instal a set of larry B's starter contacts while starter is off truck. Mine was not having any problems but did any ways. Glad I did the contacts where half gone. Saved myself trouble down the road. Geno's also has the contacts about 60.00' easy install.

Mine is same way. After grid heat shuts down pressure is up. I can watch volt meter and pressure. It does this whenever grid heat on.

The switch works on the vacuum. After you put truck in 4wd low you flip the switch which reverses the vacuum disengaging the front axle.That way you get the low torque when backing the trailer. The part number on my reciept is C11935 it was ordered direct from Pac Brake my the dealer that installed it. You can also get it from Genosgarage.com part number is BD-1030703 cost is 142.50. It is WELL worth the money if you back a trailer very much.

I use a 4w low 2 w drive switch. It allows me to disengage the front axle kinda of like not using the front axle hubs. That way you get low toqure but no wheel hop. I got mine from Pac Brake.

Looks good now I wished I had done mine when did valves 2 weeks ago. Well will just wait till the RV 275s arrive.

218000 so just a newbie to the 200k club. - - - Updated - - - Where does line from wastegate solinode go?

I like. I will have to remember this if I ever have trouble like this. THANKS

Not sure about the 1st gen.The kit for the 2nd gen that I used came with a flatten and stretched washer and a front seal to use after removing the cover. Also while the cover is off be sure to remove the 5 bolts [one at a time] clean the threads put a little BLUE Loctite on then re-install and torque. On mine one of the five was only a little tighter then finger tight.

Late again. I did Mikes mod 2 yrs ago and NO MORE messy rad. I don't offroad as much as Mike but still like his mod. I mean 10.00 it is the cheapest and easiest mod I have done. Plus the most payback yet. If it falls apart tomorrow I put 10.00 and 10 min. and it's back. plus plus.

It's been a little while since I did mine, I think the fan is right hand thread. Backwards from normal. It was tight had a friend help me.

Not that I know of. I have an 01, I pulled the front cover installed the KDP kit just for peace of mind. I'm glad I did because I found one of the 5 bolts that hold the gear case on was loose so while you have the cover off take each bolt out one at a time clean them then reinstall them with a little blue Loctite. That way the pin is secure and the bolts are too.

Yeah I seen where some like you run tighter, but since this was the first for me I tried to stay close to specs. In the nexst month or two will be installing the new RV275s so maybe then will run the lash to .008 and .018.

Thanks to all that share their knowledge. I just did the valve lash adjustment. Only took 4 hours. Not to bad for first time. Thank you Mopar1973man for your GREAT article with pix. Now onto my next project swap out the injectors for some RV 275. Couple more paydays then back here to get the info needed to do the job. The change in the sound at idle was amazing. Seat of the pants I would say 25-30% better running, seemed to get up to speed faster, will have to be careful already spun tires. Most of the valves were loose. intakes were .012-.013, exhaust .022-.023. I guess not to far out for 217778 miles.THANKS AGAIN!!!!!!!!!!!

Just talked to the folks that made the pump. They said to remove the regulator and cut one coil from spring. I will try this later. Also talked to Blue Chip about pressure and they said as long as It doesn't go to 30 psi drive it and enjoy.

I see that you have a raptor frrp. How do you like it? I just installed one and can't get pressure below 23psi. idle. Other then that it was a simple easy install.

Did you try the 140 amp fuse in box under hood? Also is your neutral safety switch on clutch ok?Guess I should finish reading before posting.