dave110

Good info. in the above couple of posts. I did not know that the RV's are not popped or flowed. I'm assuming the 7x9's etc are?

Even if the rubber bushing fell out you would not have 1.5" of movement and there would be one heck of a clunk, clank, bang, slam going down the road. I still think the sway bar is moving. Ever check that out? It's hard to tell from pictures but your springs are straight while the sway links are tilted way off center.

Looks like the coil springs are pretty straight. With that much off set in the sway bar links you should be able to see one tire sticking out farther than the other looking straight at the truck from the front if the whole axle is offset.

Not sure if it's possible without looking, but IIRC you had your sway bar removed. Could it have slid over in the rubber frame mounts due to not tightening something? Is it just the sway bar that's crooked or the whole axle?

See the little guy at the end of my sentence? That means I was making a joke. It's my way of at the 12v guys who say VP44's are unreliable. No way I'll ever P-pump my truck. I like my tachometer.

Dang VP44's. Can't barely make 1/4 million miles before they crap out. That's it, I'm P-pumping my truck

I like the custom BHAF. But somebody tell me how in the wide world of sports does any air get through that thing???

About 30 'smiles' to the gallon for sure!

I want one!! . Nothing sounds like a Detroit 2 stroke. The epitomy of diesel coolness. If you put 2 stroke oil in the fuel will it make it sound like a 4 stroke?

I need one of those....................

It's been covered before. Here is the thread. You can see what I and some others did. Simple and effective as can be. I have no idea what IBM is up to. Got tired of waiting.

FWIW my toggle switch has been on for over a year now with zero issues other than the 2 hidden codes I never see. I love it. Turn on, pre heat, start, turn off, save alternator.

Got you covered. EDIT You're on fire tonight @dripley. Beat me out by a silly second.

Chicken man's getting cocky now

I understand that part. What I'm saying is there should be a simple side note saying fooler must be turned off to start in cold weather or something like that. Something right like what your saying here.

Here you go. First check the ECM lead as described above to be sure the LP is functional. 10k miles ago is not exactly new and even new things can fail.

Well, that's interesting stuff on the IAT fooler. Makes perfect sense but I wouldn't have thought of it. If it's not already spelled out in the instruction manual for the fooler it should be.

That's plenty low enough. 60 something degrees is the cutoff. 66 IIRC. I'd pay close attention to that WTS light the next couple of days. Wait until it comes on before starting and I'll bet it starts right up. If it runs like a cold start when it does fire up then maybe you have 2 issues. AN ECM that is delayed in booting up and grid heaters or their relays that are failing. Did all this start after you welded on the truck?

FWIW to everyone I put the Gabriels on and have a few hundred miles on them. The difference was immediately evident. WOW! As of now I am very happy and would recommend them. Time will tell how they hold up.

I wondered what was with the Crabking. I figured chicken man had seafood tonight.

The ECM turns the pump on and off to keep the pressure down while crabking. Just wanted to point out that the pressure regulation happens whilst 'cranking' the engine. If your relay is clicking on and off in the 'run' position I would not call that normal. Good point. Like the early models appear to switch the grid heater relays on the ground side and the later models on the hot side.

Here in PA at least the miles are logged on every inspection report. So if you get inspected this year with 200k and come back next year with 120k there would be some explaining to do. That is if anybody at DOT stayed awake long enough to catch it.

All this talk about injector failure makes me hesitant to pull the trigger on a set. I certainly don't want to replace injectors every 20k miles.What brand injectors are we talking? I trust and like DAP but I realize it's a budget injector. Is it worth spending more money for a better injector like Infinite? Or is this a performance injector problem in general?

So this issue you're having. Your title says extended crank but later on you say slow crank. 2 very different things. Which is it? I've had extended crank issues twice. Once was an IP that was just worn out and once for a slow booting ECM which is why I brought up the delayed WTS lite. I've had slow crank issues too which ended up being worn out starter contacts as listed above. So are we talking 'slow' or 'extended?

Delayed ?