dave110

Bought a NAPA trac bar since Mikes happy with his. I get almost everything from Rock Auto anymore. I like the fact that you usually have economy, daily driver, OEM, and heavy duty choices. Buy it all at once and the shipping is very reasonable.

Wow, I was way off with my response. I thought you were looking for the rope itself. Sorry about that. I have 2 mowers and a generator with the hook pulley thing. I have no idea what the right name for it is.

And I can't even get a golden chicken nugget.

You just never know. The SKF industrial bearings we use at work are USA made. Maybe the automotive stuff gets farmed out? Today my AC DElCO drag link showed up from Rock Auto. Unlike my ball joints it proudly says Made In USA on the sticker. I wish there was a way to know whats made here and whats not.

Around here the lawn mower shops have different size 'pull rope' on bulk reels. That's what I buy and keep 7' or so in my cabinet in case of emergency.

So reading through all this it appears that all the parts store filters are junk and Donaldson, Fleetguard, and Baldwin are the preferred brands. Just to put it in a nutshell what are the part numbers and where does one go to buy these filters for fuel and oil?

It never ends.......................................

Round here we stuff the bisquits in the chicken. That cereal looks good though. Do they sell that at the same store that has the synthetic blinker fluid?

Might as well throw a fender cover in yet before we get back on track

We'll get on the same page here after a chapter or two.

Now I'm confused. You say it's not the ground but it is.

What is the #6 or so sized wire that runs from the intake horn bolt down to the side of the grid heater body then? Or is my truck the only one that has it? I'll have to look closer and get a pic tomorrow.

All I see is carburetors

Correct. But the ring terminal lays on aluminum. That was the area of my concern. The dissimilar materials causing corrosion and preventing a good contact between the bolt and ring terminal. Not doubting the mod at all. That's what sparked my thought. I also remember early on in the mod where bolt threads were being wire brushed to make better contact.

Or he was pre-filling through the center hole .

Flat head something or other. Wait, I haven't been a kid for 35 years. Can I still play?

I maintain the belief that the grids kill alternators which is why mine are on a switch. I don't use them ever, except to pre heat the truck to start then they go off. My alternator problems have went away since doing so. For whatever reason some don't want to switch them. To each their own. The 2 codes it sets don't bother me and I don't have smog here. If I ever do have to get smogged I will turn them back on, clear the codes, do a few drive cycles and get smogged. And apparently @IBMobile has a way to switch them that doesn' throw codes so what's to lose? Anyhow, now that I've made my annual case about switching the grids I also believe something changed since we didn't hear of this problem from new. And Mike unlike many of us has had his truck from new so he would know. Everybody here is all hyped up about grounding mods here lately. One question I asked before that didn't get much attention is what about the grid heater ground? One end is on a long bolt down into the intake plenum which is alum. and corrodes easily. Just a thought.

Anyone want to buy the last NAPA Gold fuel filter I have?

Can't. My 4" BHAF won't fit on my 5" exhaust. On second thought I could stuff my old K&N in the pipe to help lube the ole muffler bearing.

It's not huge but true it's more than energy star newer stuff. But it has not cost me $3600 in total electric let alone extra electric in 19 years. The 3 new ones at $1200 a pc. did however.

But that would turn my anti freeze back into coolant again.

I flushed my coolant out and put anti freeze in. Also put winter freon in so it blows hot out of the cold vents.

Or the glorious glow plug relay in the winter. I learned quick to keep one in the tool box. 14 years and 165k I never had a cam sensor issue on mine. Lucky I guess.

Looks like I'll need to buy a case of bottles instead of cans for the next brake flush. I use the jar method as well. I have a vac bleeder but don't use it anymore for the reasons mentioned above. Always sucking air through the threads.