dave110

www.circuitryrepair.com. this one is the former kleinbottle computer that Mike suggested in another thread

Dodge can, my brother in law who is a Dodge tech said it's no big deal, and it's my understanding that anyone with a Smarty can do a flash for you as well. If you get a used one from the same year and transmission a flash should not be needed

search this forum for " best option for rebuilt ecm" by imbodie. He had his redone somewhere. But I would try the things listed above first. Also have you checked your alternator for AC voltage? Theres an article on how to do so.

For me I had to wait for the light to come on for it to start. Sometimes had to wait 5-7sec. for it to come on but when it came on it always started. Seems like most of the ECM issues I've been seeing lately have been on 99 trucks. Known good used ones show up in the classifieds for $300-500, and should be plug and play if you get the same year and transmission. Don't lose any sleep yet. Try unplugging the ECM, after disconnecting the bat grounds, and slathering the connecter with dielectric grease and plugging it in and out a few times to make sure everything is coated ( not my idea but it works ). It's easier if you take the intake horn off. It could be just a loose screw on the connector or dirty connection. Theres also a thread on here from a guy who got his rebuilt with good results for I think around $700. You'll need to look for it because I don't remember the place.

Do you have a delayed wait to start light? It could be a sign of a failing ECM. Mine would run sometimes and other times it would be on/off/on/off.

3 & 4 are electrically controlled. 1 and 2 are mechanical. I'm no expert but maybe the governer pressure solenoid as it seems to be a weak link for some

$220 a ton delivered 3 tons or more here in PA. I quit and went back to fire wood a long time ago. How do you guys get it so cheap? We mine alot of coal here and still waaaaaaay to expensive.

180 ft lbs

many over on the cummins forum don't like it. seems it makes the steering too tight from what I read.

Thanks Dripley! That gives me an idea, only these are upside down compared to my 99. Mine will stay in the knuckle so I should be able to put the whole knuckle in the arbor press. I may just try a Harbor Freight set. It had many good reviews including a few from guys who used it on F250's which I think are similar to ours in size. Any 99 guys have any tips?

Hi all! It's soon ball joint time for me. In my research some say you need a $300+ tool set to do them. If that's the case I might as well pay a shop to do it but I like to do my own work. I've never done these but I did on my F2504x4 and I remember the loaner tool from Advance didn't have big enough parts to handle a larger joint like that. I have access to an arbor press and can make cups and stuff in the machine shop. Do I really need a ball joint press? Can't I just take the nuts off and hammer the joint loose from the axle and then take the whole knuckle and put it in an arbor press? Is there a write-up anywhere on this or for those familiar can you give me a step by step or any tips like which to take out and put in first? Top or bottom. That way I won't spend so much time in trail and error. I'm not worried about getting the unit bearing and axle out, been there too many times, just the ball joint part. Thanks!

Got it done and just wanted to add a few notes for other first timers. I got 3 quarts of PS fluid and 2 quarts of Lager and wound up short. Next time I'll get 5 quarts of Lager .No seriously it wasn't bad at all, just the first time jitters. I got clear fluid after about 2.5 quarts, but I would have flushed some more if I had extra. Like Pepsi said 4-5 would be better. I had to cut the return line to get it off and there was enough extra to fit up again, but the next time I'll need a new hose so would be good to have one just in case. I routed the hose down and tie-wrapped to the track bar to help contain the mess and it worked really well. The worst part of the job was while I had the font end up i checked ball joints and yep, It's time. Guess I'll need more than 3 quarts to get me through that job . Where do you get the OEM Spicers? Thanks for all the help.

Dang mice. Ever think of sticking a cat in there? I have the problem when I store my motorcycle over winter. I've found they don't like to dirty their little paws in grease so I tape the holes and grease over top. Your screen should do the job well though.

i did the very same thing. Works great.

i use their 2 stroke and their engine oil in my skid steer. how do you like the engine oil for in your truck? It's often tempted me cause it's a lot cheaper

Good deal . Glad you got it fixed up.

Thanks for clearing it up for me. I'l let the engine off and give it a try.

Mich and Bud aint cheap! I went with Supertech for the fluid though. I made sure I got "new" stuff.

Ohhhh now I see. And like brake bleeding if no air enters no bleeding necessary. I think I got it. Case of beer and 3 quarts of PS fluid sound about right? Are there any preferred brands of fluid?

I guess you misunderstood me. I'm not asking how much it holds, I'm asking how to pump in new to force out the old.

Just one more question. How do you pump fresh fluid in? I guess I'm a little scared from reading some guys who do this and end up with no power steering or brakes because they didn't do something right.

How do you pump fresh fluid through? Do I have 2 return lines because of hydroboost? How do I know which are the returns? ATF+4 or PS fluid? Sorry for all the ??

What's wrong with that? Gives the flies a place to collect.

Hi all. It's time for me to do this and I was looking for any help or Suggestions you might have. This is my first time so any pics would help as well. Thanks!

I don't think you have anything to worry about. A little smoke is normal, many report it, and you're not blowing the cap off. My PSI is very similar to yours. Check it in another 109k when it's finally broken in and it might be even better.