Gregturley

@IBMobile I did the W-T fix awhile back. With stock alt i had .01 max. Later on i added a 2 gauge positive crossover cable to the factory 0 gauge, added a 2 gauge negative cablle between the batteries, ran a 2 gauge ground from alt to pass battery. I never checked ac noise after tthose changes. Today i checked before i took off the stocker. I checked after the 160 amp install. I don't believe my results because i showed 0.000 both times today. I will recheck ac tomorrow at work. I have access to 3 different Flukes there. I will also test after 58mm pulley install but it may be a couple weeks. I'm ordering the new pulley in the next couple days. Stay tuned.

Yeah this guys post was from 2018 with follow ups. I'm hoping with my grid heater controller off most of the time it will live a long happy life.

They sell dye kits with yellow glasses and a UV flashlight for cheap. They can really help pinpoint leaks.

You're welcome, but the guy at Cumminsforum did the hard work. The price was definitely good for me. I can take any alt back as a core so I'm keeping the stock and returning an old gm i have. I've added so much electrical crap to this truck i was looking at a Mechman. I'll try this and see how it goes. The only difference between my stocker and the Durango was the charging post on the Durango points to the firewall and stock 01 Cummins points to passenger fender. The charging wire fit fine.

@Bullet yes it is other than the pulley. Read through the link i made he's got a lot of good info. The ford pulley he talks about is easy to find on ebay for $10-13. I just used the stock Dodge pulley of my old alternator but think I'll get the ford pulley and try it. It's 58mm, stock mopar is 60mm i think. That will spin it slightly faster. I plan on putting the truck on my charging tester at work this week. I'll follow up with what I find.

In my search for a better alternator i came across a post by ilya5903 on Cumminsforum.com about using a 2001-03 5.9 Durango 160 amp alternator. Today i hit Pull-a-Part and lucked out. They had 2 Durangos and one was a clean 02 5.9 with the factory alternator. $22 + $7 core. Had it tested on the way home and it works. Swapped the pulley and 15 minutes later its on. Definitely puts out more at idle than the stock 136 amp as i can now have all 3 air compressors, a/c, high blower, headlights and stereo on with truck at 800rpm in drive and had 13.9 volts. 14.2 at idle in drive with everything off. Factory pn 56029915AA. https://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-powertrain/2422026-denso-hairpin-160a-alternator-upgrade.html#/topics/2422026?page=1

All the dashs from 98.5 to 02 are the same correct? I'm talking about the main body of the dash and the metal frame and ducts.

Filters, fluids and gaskets I've been using Amazon for awhile. They seem to beat most prices. I have a buddy at Cummins but i try not to bother him too much. I just use this place for part numbers never ordered anything from them.

I saw that before. I think the website is a little easier to use. It updates superseded numbers, pricing, and if a part is discontinued.

@Celtic Clamper i know this is a year old thread but did you ever come up with a workable upgrade for the blower motor?

Grab some topper tape to stick to the sides of the evap and heater core because your replacements probably will not come with any foam seals. Really helps with heat and a/c performance.

I usually get the box installed as soon as possible then get the vacuum pump going while I hang a dash. By the time the dash and column are done its ran enough to charge. I'm not wasting time waiting for the vacuum. I pull column because it makes it so i can easily roll the dash on the seats. I can then slide it out and onto saw horses by myself. @dripley Only adds a few bolts, connectors, and shift linkage. 30 minutes R&R total maybe but less to work around. DO NOT forget to lock the key so steering wheel doesn't spin and mess up the clock spring.

@Doubletrouble replace the a/c dryer while you have it apart. That should be the last part installed when doing the job. You dont want it open to the atmosphere any longer than necessary. Measure and add the correct amount and type of oil. It is also a time to clean the box and refoam the doors. I used contact glue and foam i got local when i did my old trucks.

I've been using this site for awhile. It shows factory parts diagrams along with part numbers, including superseded numbers. You can enter your VIN also. http://Moparpartsgiant.com I've also found similar sites for ford and chevy that come in handy for side jobs.

If you're doing a dash top I'd pull steering column, pull dash completely out and do dash top on bench. Get new plastic nut inserts for it too. Need 4. Know it says storage compartment nut but it is what snaps into firewall for upper dash screws. I get them from the dealer we contract with for about $5 each.

They are nice gauges but i have autometer cobalts that i pulled out of my gasser. I think the Cobalt gauges are easier to see day and night plus i dont care for green lighting.

By yourself if you've never done it 7-8 hours probably. It can be done in about 4 pretty easily if you're familiar with it. You do need a vacuum pump for the A/C recharge or take it to someone.

I do like my Fuel Boss

I have an Isspro 0-40psi gauge that works perfect. Only removed because it didn't match my other gauges. Used for about 10 months. If you need it give me a fair offer.

@Dynamic I've been a mechanic for 30 years. I understand why core prices are what they are. I have bought parts that cost less than the core charge. I think it's great when someone like you can get the cores that you need for a reasonable price. It helps keep your business moving. I am not complaining about what you pay for cores but I am jealous. If i can find one for $200 or so I'll jump on it. If not I'll wait. Around here demand seems to be greater than supply so prices reflect that.

I understand this. Unfortunately the people around here that are selling do not. I see idiots posting used stock converters for 2-300.

People around here think anything Cummins is gold. Thats why I'm starting to shop around now so i have time to find a deal. I refuse to overpay for a core that I'm going to replace half the internals of.

Around here i guess a dime is equal to about $400. But I'll have a core valve body and converter to use when I need them and i have time to shop around.

Intermediate band lever yes. Going with billet input and intermediate shafts. I'll start buying parts when i can afford them.

@Dynamic what kickdown lever do you recommend with your valve body? Which triple disk converter? Daily driver 4-500 hp with occasional towing of 15000 pounds.