pepsi71ocean

I have head studs going in just because i have an incessant fear, about lifting the head, mainly because low rpm high boost will do that. Before i broke my smarty i used to tow and tow heavy i mean 20,000 and up, and the smarty was a god send for me. I wanted somethign that i could know would not cause issues. (only issue i have is that my cable broke, but should be fixed this weekend and hopefully not a day to soon. Monday i have a good sized load to haul with the 99, to see how she will hold up. With your set up you want ide say, grab a BHAF, (forget that CAI stuff), 4 inch turbo back exhaust, a PXRB Pac brake, and if your not ditching the turbo grab the turbo mounted version. A 4 inch exhaust, boost elbow, 3 pcs exhaust manifold, some light injectors 50-75HP, and then your choice of a programmer. The problem with a CAI is that your mpg's will also drop off. warmed engine room air is not a bad thing for these motors, they have inter-coolers for a reason jkidd will send you to his site in the end. But i have found that the vendors all are quite helpful, i know he frequents this site here and there. My warning about airdog, is that they have issues, especially those pre cut push loc fittings. Mike (mopar1973man)has told me about them. just incase you were wondering this is a boost elbow here http://www.dieselautopower.com/product_p/boostelbow.htm these are the injectors i got here http://www.dieselautopower.com/Diesel_injectors_24v_p/dap%20injectors%2098-02.htm Is this what you were looking at? http://www.dieselautopower.com/product_p/pacbrake%2094-02%205.9l%20c44083.htm this is next on my list here http://www.dieselautopower.com/product_p/24v%203pc%20manifold.htm I would go with PacBrake over BD for an exhaust brake, their air compressor version is a good one. I know Walt at FTE diesel sells them. That is on my list after the cosmetic work is finish on my truck.

Being your so close you shouldn't have any issues if any arise, me im 3,000+ miles away lol. I think 99% of my issues with my DTT came from the shop that did the install. i can go on about them.. I went with Diesel Auto Power injectors. jkidd is highly recommended. A turbo is not needed really. your HX-35 turbo is good to about 400 Hp, or 35lbs of boost. I don't see how you could over work it with a small bump injector wise. If you feel the need to upgrade go with a S300 to start with. if i was you i would start planning my end goals then go backwards. If your goal is 400HP then go about everything with that in mind. I went with the goal of 355, and im happy where i am now. You should limit yourself to 300-350HP as that is where the engine has enough Hp, and will run forever, anything over 425 is where you start breaking things. --- Update to the previous post... Hey John what about this post here http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/4792-Smarty The reason i suggested a smarty is the set it and forget it ability, and the fact he tows, the smarty will give him the low end grunt power he needs. no doubt stacking would be a beaste, but i feel that with 60's and a smarty make for a good combination.

I have a fully built DTT auto, and have no real issues that were not presented by the crap done during installation by a 3rd party.My story about DTT goes back to a payment plan and me shipping my trans out at the same time frame as the guy in the previous post, around October-December of 2011.I will say my DTT has held up to everything, And it sees thus far they did a good job with it. I would say any of the big 5 would be good for a transmission. DTT, Goerend, Suncoast, Garmon, and revmax.the mistake that the poster made was talking directly to stephan, he should have spoke to Shanti, she does all of the main paperwork/billing stuff. All in all i won't say not to do business with DTT, as the other poster implied, but my advice is to instead not go through vendors, if your going DTT or Goerend get their main place to do it, not a sub shop. My DTT was built fine, but the mechanics shop that did the install, did a "good" job, at screwing around with it.As for towing/reliability.....I would get a fully built auto, then add head studs, some 60's and a Smarty. Forget the rest of the crap.A larger turbo is not necessary, grab a boost elbow and set it to 35psi. The problem with the edge is that when it does it usually causes other issues, with the ecm and the VP-44, and when its really cold they sometimes won't work. I would get a smarty and set it on lvl 5-6 when towing, with a built auto i would also say that you should turn torque management off completely. My setup on my 99, hauls heavy all the time, and does it will, it shouldn't have any issues with what you have planned.

So i just got off the phone with DTT, they were more then happy to send me to bill.So far i have found that the gear shift linkage was binding towards what seems to be the reverse side on the neutral detente. When i loosened the shifter screw holder it slid down and now site just right.I also readjusted the T.V. Cable and reset it so that it has a bit more then 1/16's inch play, i also learned that you can see your TV lever from the engine room, i made sure that my TV lever was at rest before i pinned the TV cable down.The last part of the quandary is the no second gear shifting issue, which bill and i discussed. He said the lack of 2nd gear is a lockup timing valve that is in, but since i didn't have an exhaust brake there was no need to have it in backwards to allow for true exhaust braking, so he said that when im ready to do my fluid change to call him up and he will walk me though it. Speaking to Bill, helped me out alot in understanding things. When we looked at my build sheet, i never told them i was going to add a Pac Brake, must have slipped my mind. I'll report back in a few days with some news about the frequency of the stalling, as realigning the gearshift linkage seems to have made it less frequent.

do you know if the guy who installed your trans adjusted the TV and gear shifter linkage correctly?

what vendor built the valve body? and what are your line pressures when you tested it.

Hey SASQCH, and JohnFAQ When you guys got your valve bodies, did you put them together your selves? Or were they bought from one of the vendors?

Hey guys,here is a video showing what im talking about. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XqSaMtOdlao

well today mike and i were conversing and a discovery was made.If i down shift my truck to "2" manually it will not do it. It will only do it if i hit O/D off first. I need to shoot a video and hopefully post it up and see if this had any impact.so where now thinking that combined with metal shavings are now pointing to a screwed up trans or something that didn't go in right.i added that Diesel Kleen like DTT suggested but it didn't fix ____, just maid my exhaust temps almost uncontrollable, i mean acceleration (1,500) rpm's at 800F......

i tried the O/D off thing and it made no difference.Tomorrow im adding the Diesel Kleen with a full tank of diesel and 2 stroke oil and i'll run a test to see if that fixes it.For now thought i put feelers out to see what other guys think of this issue.I also tomorrow will be heading up to a guy with a CR smarty, and i'll borrow his cable and hope to got it fixes my problem, if so a new cable is on order and should then fix my issue with my smarty not connecting.if it does work then i'll go about playing with the little thing like duration and such.

here is a video tonight, that shows just how many times it did it. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UWTBUOcvwOw now, i still think that the VP-44 changes the timing or something for that first 0-10 seconds, because something is a miss.

I went back and fixed the videos, i didn't realise my phone uploaded them as private.i watched them from here and figured they worked.Im uploading a video now (hopefully it posts), from tonight the stalling was super bad.

some videos here of this stalling again http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=53HAahp-dgQ http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_9fAOl7sQ2A Here on this video at about 48 seconds you can see where im idling the truck at 1,000 rpm's and drop it into gear, and guess what she died.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KiOH4sikOT4 i spoke to dtt about it and they are saying it could be a celtane issue, or the tps is worn, but i have messed with alot of other stuff and none of which seems to fix it.Among other things is the Celtane count of our winter diesel here, but im trying to get a video of the engine as it seems like its binding up if i shift it back and forth to much.So i will go find some of that diesel celtane booster in the back forty and dump it in, i have a 1/2 a tank and will see what it does along with some 2 stroke oil.

yep, that is why i cough up the big bucks and buy filters in bulk, i buy them by the case and have found the price drops dramatically.maybe i'll try to get a deal going someday.

it works great in the long run, but im not 100% sold on it anymore.Especially since i can get the rated filters from the local cummins shop for 9.25 a filter.

that is why gun owners here do the speed limit, and don't get into trouble, because odds are you will loose all of your guns at the same time when they come and confiscate them.

the stalling is still here, and now does it in reverse as well:banghead:I did notice that the stalling did at one point in time get better after i did the band adjustment, and flushed out about 10 quarts of fluid and put in a good quality fluid (Valvoline Dextron) Hopfully with the next 1,000 miles i should see it get less frequent, but it still does it when its cold.

we must be in paradise here, the last time i even saw a cop was.....(geese can't remember outside of tonight.)Here were bussed by the state police, and they just care about making money, and pulling people over for speeding, and writing them 300 dollar seat belt tickets.unless your the poor, sap(like me) who is leaving the gun range and they pull you over for blowing the stop sign on range property:lmao:And then ask you of your carrying firearms, (say no and go to jail):lol:So you say yes, and then he asks you to come out, where he then cuffs you and lets you sit on the hood of his cop car, while he inspects your firearms for their "legal" status, and then promptly loads every magazine in your possession to make sure it is 15rd compliant.when its all done he then asks for your FID and DL, and then lets you go....:lmao2:God, i hate going to the gun range, now you know why, F new jersey:lol: Now wonder they hate gun oweners:lol: Our gun laws will indeed drive you crazy:ahhh:

t is more importaint to monitor boost in a 6.7, because of the cam. the exhaust stays closed longer, and rises cylinder pressure up much quicker, and thus leads to a higher frequency of head gaskets.If one was to simply throw in a towing cam this issue goes away.

hmmm, i don't think i got much out of that terminal, the only one that gave me any real readings was in the middle.it looked like this| | |----1----2The 1 is the one i got the reading of 3.95.

start taking pictures of the parts and i'll help you out.

on my relay there are two prongs in one direction, and 3 facing the opposite on a paralell. The only one that gave me an Ohm reading is the very center prong, in this relay (im assuming its 85, but the relay diagram on the relay wasn't much help. The reading was 3.95@2000k.

if the mechanic replaced the VP-44, but put the wrong key in, or didn't get the key in right you can throw a 0216 code.Although i have learned sometimes its best to just do it yourself.ship your truck to me and i'll put it together for you

Where is the fuel pump socket? ide Ohm test for you. Im not sure what the fuel pump socket is. ALso the wiring is different between 98-99 trucks and 2000 and up.

HY's were only on 2000 and up automatics. HX's were on the auto's in 98.5-2000 models. The HX is 12cm2 rather the HY is 9cm2