pepsi71ocean

the whole trans from TC to output shaft is DTT. He didn't say why it was low, but he said that the stiff pedal is also a throttle valve issue.

So since we last talked i have been busy i pulled the doors, stripped them repainted them, rust treatment and all.... Any anyways.Well today i went out with my brother, and Bill @ DTT and did some line pressure testing.The bad news is the valve body is coming out. I had ) psi for line pressure reading until the trans locked up, and with that i also got 40psi at 35mph (od off in lock up), a whopping 67.5 psi at 45mph, and 90 at 80mph.All were to low. My middle port line pressures were 60psi at idle, regardless of anything tried.So bill said to take out the valve body then give him a call back.

Funny, after 8 years my trucks coolant was still green, and unfortunately so was the block and the radiator. but after 2 flushes and 4 years later it is back to the same rusty color your block is. starting in 03 they moved to HOAT. We don't the aluminum is the heater corse, and radiator (unless the HC is bronze)

i have always been under the belief that its better to be over prepared then under prepared.I have towed loads up and over 20,000lbs but this is with a truck that has not gotten over 30lbs of boost.Once i get the bugs worked out of the tranny i want to get up on the road, and haul again.

Flexplates are something that either breaks or doesn't. But with where you are i would be more concerned that even a SFI plate will not stand up to the test over time. I would think you should ask yourself if its worth saving a little money and risk trashing your trans over a few hundred. Atyleast that is what i was told, Flexplates could last to 500 Hp and some may not. BUT, if yours doesn't last then you trashed your Pump, and TC and possiably front clutch pack. Im just saying if he has it out, there is no harm in doing it.

you need to be careful with adjusting the timing, as there are alot of guys who have blown head gaskets by running larger tunes on their 6.7l's.You can i believe that if you leave it on 1(which is default), 2 is stock timing, 3 is advanced timing and 4 is super advanced for fuel economy, but not towing.

You seem like you have a bubba build for a transmission. While some can last some may not. I wouldn't go with a single disk at all, a triple is the minimum, and get a billet flexplate. That and a Billet input shaft. I don't know much about CVC, but anything built by the big 3 will be more then suffice. What you have engine HP wise will be more then that trans will ahndle under a load if you were towing. Can you explainwhy your DTT built tranny isn't good enought, i know it was not a built trans but can you explain?

if you have stock injectors leave it stock, if your looking for more radical timing change your numbers up, but do't go to 4 that is the mileage setting.

depending on the amount of Horse power you have going through your engine.However, i do think that the smarty would allow you to compensate for larger injectors, or so i would think if you were lengthen the duration.

from what i have heard, if you tow havy6 and try to run more boost you run the risk of lifting the head easily.

geese, i think when i ordered my 60's they were only 300 or so. How much are you indeed saving?

Well, this has taken a interesting turn. I was on the parkway heading south and in order to avoid an accident i had to drop the pedal to the floor, immediately after when i went to get back onto the pedal it was very stiff to move. Now as a basis comparison i usually drive with my big toe if i want to add some pep, and the throttle responds with just a toe. However the pedal was so stiff that even my whole foot on the pedal it was hard to move.Now i then got off the exit, and came to a stop and made a right. Upon acceleration the truck had no 1-2 shift, so i put it in Neutral then back into drive, and it shifted to 2nd gear. and rode 2nd gear all the way up, until i once again shifted to neutral and back into drive. This gave me my 2-3 shift.It almost acts like the throttle vale (or what ever the TV cable attaches to), is stuck in a position or something.Here is the video from that.Now, once i shifted it to neutral and left it there for a few seconds at the traffic light the truck was fine, back into drive no stalling however the pedal was now once again easy to move. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H57IvRMEWqo So now last night i decided to try and repeat what happened, by getting on the parkway. I did a almost WOT run getting onto the parkway, and then got off the next exit and the truck did it again. So i then shot this series of videos to show you. you can clearly see where the truck shifted normally, and also had a soft pedal, after getting on the parkway the truck had a hard pedal, and upon exiting the parkway i had rough shifting again.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vHHtU4M0LWo&hd=1 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c7aNuce-Ig8 After shutting the truck off i then tested by foot, and the pedal was no longer stiff.This is not the first time i have had a stiff pedal, it has happened when i have been towing boats a while ago. I just never associated the two before. I was towing a 5,000lbs boat and got into the throttle about 50-60% of the way to get it moving onto the parkway here, and it was stiff, after that, but then again it was all cruising around here after that, i set the cruise control, and drove the boat for the next hour down south to where it had to go. about an hour later the pedal was no longer stiff.It is interesting to note that the truck does this, but it also does it only when the trans temp gets above 180, usually closer to 200F, or in stop and go traffic.I called DTT, and spoke to Shanti who even admitted that didn't seem right, so tomorrow i have an appointment to talk to bill over the phone and she said that he and i are going to do some line pressure testing to see what is going on.The problem is my truck is once again in a hundred parts, i have two doors drying after getting them the chit beat out fo them, (rust removal), and paint job, and my dashboard is apart as well.I'm hoping to have them all back together by lunch time tomorrow so bill and i can line pressure test.

Well, since i last drive the truck (like 2 or 3 days ago), today i started the truck, put it into gear and rove it over 200 miles today stopping all over the place, trans temp never got above 160. and not a single stalling issue what so ever.... however, i have noticed ever more so that around 30mph, my truck shuttle shifts back and fourth from 3-2-3. why the truck is running in 3rd (and locked up)at 30 mph is beyond me, heck when i drive it goes 1-2 right into 3. There is no 2nd gear usually. I can tell when it will do it because it holds 2nd gear for once. the truck shifts into 2 at 15 mph, into 3rd at 18-25, i wouldn't mind if it held 2nd until i got back up to 2,000 or so which is 30mph. I can't even lock out 3rd by shifting the truck to manual 2 because even in O/D OFF now it still shifts into 3red, if in manual 2. I have my suspects but right now i think this 2-3-2-3 shuttle shifting is now a worn VB or valves that are to small, that are causing fluid to get between them in the bores. once again, same tank of fuel, and nothing has changed, hell the weather is colder then it was a week ago. Well, I just got off the phone with Stephan, and they have a new set of valves for me to test out, apparently there is another guy who has the same issues. I drove the truck today all over, put another 70 miles on her, and no stalling issues until i parked it at the G/f;s house. I even got the trans up into the 180-200F range and didn't have the side loading either. And the trans also shifted longer between 2 and 3rd. Then at the g/fs i parked it for maybe 30-45mins then when i went to back up to leave it stalled, second time it went right in, then going into drive to pull away again it stalled. Im looking forward to the valves that are coming. We shall see how it goes together.

Well, i made it most of the last day and a half without a single issue, then today at random it stalled again going into drive.so the question is why was everything fine for a half a day, and then all the sudden its back.BTW its the same tank of fuel, nothing has changed, fuel filters are relatively new (under 500 miles on them.

le have thought of that, but i never rotate my steering collum, and the truck never moved from the time it stalled at costco. I still think this is a VB issue and that it has not been solved yet. If anything the high temperature sticking issue is definitely a VB sign.In other news i got an email from FixRite Auto care, (the company DTT went through for this) and they asked me for the cooler line pressures in both neutral and drive.

i sent them all of the videos you see in this thread.

DTT keeps giving me the unintentional run around. I have send several emails with lists of videos, and spoke to their Technician, who told me i have no clue what your issue is, send me videos. I keep calling, but im waiting on an answer. I haven't touch my truck in a few days, i started her up today and everything was fine, I drove up to the g/f house truck and trans up to temp and not a single issue yet today, i expected it to stall out and it never did. She was even shifting like normal, Now the question is will it stay this way this afternoon as i have a boat to haul and put into the water. This sucks, but i have no other vehicles to use. I will report back on its functions.

thought ide bring everyone up to speed here I don't think injectors would cause this because when i first installed this trans for the first 1,000 miles it ran fine. I have started my truck up when it was 10-20F it and just thrown it into gear without the slightest issues, only after replacing the VP-44 did these issues start to exacerbate themselves. Here is another video showing me rising the RPM's to both 1,000- 1,100 and 1,200 RPM's before dropping it into Drive range. http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=uZdYKgf5-FU Here we hagve the not leaving gear hanging gear issue, and IDK what gear its stuck in BTW> http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=TC4hLuH5KSU Another video of the truck up to temperature idling for maybe 10 mins and it stalls every time going into gear. http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bq2_y49_3VI Mike (mopar1973man), think that the old VP-44 was just covering up a transmission issue that has since deteriorated to the point where even DTT doesn't know what to make of it. Im almost convinced myself to let Lannings Diesel in A look at the truck and have them swap in a Goerend VB to rule out this DTT one for once and for all. I have some videos of the truck doing really crazy chit from the last 3 days, its so odd that the truck is acting up. My stalling has gone completely away when the trans is up to 180F however, she now has strange and weird shifting issues. On i think Tuesday.... As for more good news my truck finally left me stranded today:banghead: I drove up to town went to the bank, then went to the pain store (next town up). I went in got my Ospho Rust paint then went to back up she stalled, i freaked out. I then started her up, threw her in reverse again, and she was fine, then put her in drive to drive away and she stalled again, :hehe: So i then went to Costco, after buying my food, i went out loaded it into the truck then started her up threw her in reverse and bam she stalled out again:rof. I was like WTF this is new. Then i started her up again and she stalled. i repeated this about 10 times without any change, she stalled going into both reverse and drive, and it didn't matter how soon or late i threw it into gear. After 30 mins of this i called up my g/f had her come up and then get our nicely warm food and go home. So i called my buddy up who drives a wrecker and we were planning on getting it tomorrow, but he couldn't borrow the truck so we went tonight around 10 ish. Went up and got the truck started and put her in reverse she stalled again. (After some curse words) i tried again and she didn't stall this time. So i backed her out then put her in drive and then she stalled (which was expected) then i started her up, she shook like a dancer then went into gear. everything was fine until i hit the next town with their traffic lights, when this came up, so i decided to shoot a video. http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=4HmId_GbUpQ Shanti said to send this video so ima sending it with the others well see what they think. Im hoping to have this issue fixed and DTT is trying, but not sure what can be done at this point.

Well all of the readjustments make my stalling less prevalent. however its still stalls very much so frequent.The stalling is not so violent now,as it was before, which i think is a good thing, but im still perplexed as to WTF is going on.Im suspecting a screwed up valve body still as the other day my truck wouldn't shift out of 2nd when in drive.:banghead:I so badly want to just hotshot with my truck again and this is not happening. At least on the bright side i have the sound system to work on, im down to just 2 rear working speakers.

if i could do it again i would go for a Pac Elbow and a true 4 inch TBE so that last restriction is non existent, but that is foir those who have a dire need to get rid of exhaust temps.

I believe Mike said that tapping the VP-44 causes t to burn out quicker because your forcing it fuel longer. I also think that tapping will cause it to burn out, but thats just a theory. I think the soulution is small to medium injectors like 60-75's (for stock turbo), and a programmer to give you the best of both worlds, im just saying this way you can turn it down. Intakes are useless, the stock tube is 4inches all around and if you get a BHAF then you have no restriction at all. Upgrading to a 4 inch will not remove the turbo restriction, now if you get a Pac Elbow then you can tell who your getting your exhaust from and they will give you the right downpipe. I got my Exhaust from Walt at FTE Diesel, he is a good guy with that stuff.

i forgot to add, but in theory running more boost down low will cause you to lift the head off the block, that is why, i was told by the old timers that its best to re torque you bolts, or throw studs in if your anything over stock and towing heavy.yes for what he is towing its not that bad, but if im towing 20,000lsb and runnign the truck with a good load, thats 20,000+another 8,000 for the truck thats alot of weight to throw on stock studs.Ide rather be safe then sorry.Im not tapping, my VP-44 I don't want to risk loosing my warranty if i did trash it.I just don't think its worth running a $1,000 dollar programmer that someone could jack out of your truck, maybe its just me?Also, if you plan to sleep in your truck get your exhaust welded, otherwise you will get that exhaust smell in your cab(like me).

I bought my Smarty, and my FASS years ago when it was cheaper, i didn't realize they went up in price.My truck had a 215 Pump in it, i now have a 235, with 60 horse injectors, plus my smarty im thinking im closer to 150 over stock.You must remember that the Smarty is only 60HP over stock with stock injectors, there is a wild card in that. I have heard you can see between 10-15 Hp more with larger injectors depending on their size. I have never dyno'ed my truck but i don't doubt i could be rolling around 350-360 on lvl 9.Plus did JohnFAK tap his VP-44?The smarty will raise its fueling curve depending on your level, it is adjustable, just not on the fly like the edge can, because smarty rewrites the whole fueling map in the ECM, not just change it via the CAN-BUS

unless he taps his vp-44 (which voids any warrenty) he will only have the same 60-65Hp gain as the smarty. i agree, my trans was over built, and even then i still feel its not enought, only time will tell of couse. the only thing worth having installed is the trans, the rest is very ewasy stuff, even non-mechanically inclined people can do it. I have injector install videos, as well as a FASS guide on the article side, as well as a trans diagnosis page. My advice is do it yourself. People go larger turbo's because they go to big with their injectors, if your truck is a towing pig, then you don't need the crazy ____ most put on it. people throw large injectors in and then go ????why are my EGT's so high?? See if your adding a programmer then i would say no more then 75HP for a stock turbo. if you go with an edge, even stock injectors will push the same flow, however you need to tap your VP-44 for it. This is why i say if your towing a smarty combind with some small injectors 60-75's will give you that 350HP that you want. and unlike the edge the smarty fuels hard down low. I advise this route over just a programmer because (like John said) the long term goal is reliability, and well in the winter i can return my truck to stock and still have a 295HP motor, versus just a programmer which means your dogging back at 235.. All dodges from 98.5-2000.5 were HX-35's once you get mid year then they go to HY-35's, and then got the 235 SO pump, not the 215. If he is towing i would say studs or atleast returque the head bolts. I have studs to go in because if im towing 20,000lbs i want to do it at 1,600rpm's not 2,200

just call them up. but if your going to go all out, do it right the first time.