pepsi71ocean

Hey guys,I just wanted to let you guys know that I'm hot on the trail with the rectifier, I spoke to Larry B and picked one up for testing on a Napa alternator, and I will see how it goes. I also am looking into finding them and making them reasonable as well. We will see. I shall keep you informed.

I'm so surprised by it. I have done an alternator on a 03 passat 1.8t. I got mine through German auto parts, and thus far have had no issues with any of their stuff. I will call Napa corporate tomorrow and talk to them. I have noticed a .112v difference between the alternator and the pdc box. The same test between the drivers and . Passengers battery is .003v I am hopeful that Larry's rectifier will solve this issue.

The 200f tstat made a visible difference in fuel economy,now if I could only figure my smarty out....

Ok guys, As you know I'm an old salt here, I've helped hundred of people, but now I've reached the rope with NAPA. I've bough several alternators thought them for various local customers with the famed torque converter lock up. And after 2 years with a new Napa alternator mine failed in late January. Due to my own error I misplaced that recipt so I bought another new one for $191. Yesterday night after 6 months and a few days this one gave up as well. The ac ripple would go from .05vac then started spiking to .12vac. I called the same NAPA dealer I always use and told them it was a warranty. When I got there, they informed me that a 'lifetime' warranty was a one time swap. This was news to me, the only one they had had worse stats on it then one from pepboys I looked at in January. Here are the stats on the alternator. The old one the VAC was 30amp and the ripple was .55mAmp The one that just died ac amperage was 36amp, and the ripple was .36mAmp The new one I got pulls 38 amp with a ripple of .67vac. With my hands tied I had to take it. On the truck my fluke meter was showing .05vac with spikes of .07, but turn the headlights on and air conditioning that went to .65vac to .1vac. Total fail. I'm so aggravated. I couldn't even get my one I just traded in back. But in the limelight of this is Larry B, I contacted him and bought a denso rectifier. Neither of us are sure if how this will work out but I will be writing a report up on this. And I hope that the rectifier from Larry B' s works. And I will be testing this out for everyone else. If this works I would say that this is better, because I'm done supporting a company that told me flat out this is it. And to top it off Napa is using cardone rectifier s, and after learning this today I am now not surprised based on the several power steering pumps I've rebuilt that are Carson's as well.

What is the yearly cost on the servers and such? I've been away from this caught up in the real world.

Has anyone tried reading the timing with the app?

I run a 200f tstat for a 6.7l and the truck runs better warmer with it. It is nice when it is cold out. I can see 170f with the heater on and not on max ac

Bought my fass 95 back in 2008 e with about 65,000 miles on it, and about more idling with it. My fass looks like the one in the picture, the red kind. I'm happy I got.

All I know from driving our turned back semi trucks, the goal is more rpm less speed, even though the trucks decelerate at the roughly the same speed. The difference is that when I climb a hill at 1,700 rpm the truck slows down, Conn the same hill in 9th gear at 1,900 it will hold the hill.

I replaced my alternator and my issues continued,I changed my torque management on the smarty, issue went away.

Dropped the pan, and changed the filter and fluid and tried a band adjustment and the 1-2 shift is still lagging. But end everything else cleaned up.

Where is the abs sensor? I'm tempted to try and pull it and shoot grease in there.

I replaced the alternator, and the lock up issues went away. I replaced the vss yesterday, and my first gear shift is now down to 2,100,-2,200, and the shift is not as bad, but it is still higher then it was. I'm out of ideas, now I'm thinking towards a governor pressure issue.

The Pac comes with it, you can enable the 2nd gear lock up when you change the Pac computer programming by cycling the keys. But you want something to keep your life pressure up, as well as lock up.

I checked both, the batteries were .03, but the alternator was .08 ish. I pulled the grid heater wire of, then pulled the alternator lea, and the lock up issues went away, however the delayed shifting remained, thought not as bad.

I had a similar issue with my fass, turned out to be a plugged filter, swapping files made it go away. Then again my fass 150 spring shot the fuel psi up about 7 psi.

The pxrb pacbrakethat bolts to the turbo mounts to a 4 inch exhaust pipe.

Guys I already ran a vac test with my fluke meter, the alternator was .06 before the writing fix, but now hovers around .09 volt.

So guys, I developed lock up issues Friday morning. My truck was going subtle in and out. Ironically at the exact same time my trans developed shifting issues. Currently it is holding 1st gear to 2,500 rpm, and shifting between 45-55, and I also have the unlock and lock up problems as well. I traced an issues with a loose positive battery terminal and the grid heaters. Today I tested my vac, and I had .027-.033 at the batteries. And .04-.065 with the grids during away. After fixing the terminal using threaded rod and some nuts, the grid heater drop is now 12.15v instead of 10.15v. However, after the repair my alternator now is pushing .09 and the batteries are a little higher at .035-.04. Now, I did ohm test the main cable between the two batteries and I got .03-.06 this was with the one side unhooked. I'm so annoyed I don't feel like this alternator is fried, but currently I know it must be at the center of this. It doesn't help that I also flashed the smarty again, and coincidentally this happened. I'm going to try and get to Napa and see if they have another terminal bolt, I suspect that rod may not be helping it.

Personally I would go with 60-75no injectors and a smarty. I have rung out my truck and the 100's can be warm at times but I also can say the larger injectors, and the tm on the smarty make a noticeable difference. If you want find 7 hole injectors for smoke control and a boost elbow for extra boost.

I tow heavy at time now, and have gone from 5 hole 60's to 7 hole 100's and what a difference. Especially with the hx, and boost elbow. So far it also has cured my stalling issues as well. I can peg 35+lbs of boost now, and all gears the smarty really hauls. The main thing in theory is that the injector duration is shortened thus leading to better burn.

More holes are better for atomization. I traded a set of 5 hole 60's for a set of 7 hole 100's from jkidd and it helped greatly with stalling issues with my built auto.

Hey guys, I though I would bring this thread back to life. I replaced my 5 hole 60 hp injectors with some 7 hole 100's. With over 5,000 miles on the truck since I can say I have not lost mpg, but gained driveability. Over the winter I still had a timing knock. Then I borrowed injector lines tried that. And then I did a compression test. The range was 400-450 cold, and the weak cylinder was no4. However, in the end I still was losing prime. I then bought all new crossover tubes and that fixed my problems. The truck Sat for two months and fired right up when I needed it. Then over the winter my stalling issues have just about all disappeared. With discussion with Mike, we concluded that the 5 hole 60's were not atomization the fuel in the cold sufficiently. And as a result the 7 hole 100's do. With multiple sub zero nights unplugged I was able to get in and drive with no issues. I have issues still, I bought intercooler boots because under load I hear the whistle, but I can pressure test my system with the air compressor and get no noises. Dumb founded. I also bought Ed' s high idle kit and plan to run the mpg fooler this winter. I tested it with a resistor last winter, but we will see this winter how is goes. I will start tracking updates again, but I can say that I have yet to have a bad tank of fuel.

Hey guys, Long time no post. But I though I would give an update. Turns out that the problem was a bad cross over tube. So I've been up and running this whole time. I put on about 5,000 miles and all of my tanks were over 17. I will resume once I install the new toys I bought, a set of intercooler boots and the high idle fooler kit as well.

I have had this issue, and my fix was not a bad diode but instead worn brush pack. replaced the 10 dollar pack and i was back on the road.