Jump to content

pepsi71ocean

Unpaid Member
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by pepsi71ocean

  1. You will want a billet flex plate, and billet input shaft. Because when these fail on a built auot usually they trash the pump. I would suggest you also get billeted 2nd gear acculator, and the front servo accumlator that is also metal, alot of the subtle shuttle shfting is due to these parts leaking fluid past the rings. I also recomment the planetary from the 48re as it is steel and better built. I urge you to reconsider the overdrive unit, these are a known weak point, and once you remove the rest of the slack a worn O/D unit will show its true colors. I would recommend buying a prebuilt valve body, unless you are good with the TFOD kit. I do recommend however that you get the Sonnax (i can't remember the name) valve that allows for circulaton in park. When it is all said and done, you need to see somewhere around 75-80psi in the valve body at idle and around 150-180 driving. Anything more or less will be bad. You don't race so i agree with not using the red clutches.
  2. As a computer geek and overclocker i can tell you that you will not get enought to cool down the computer with a small heat sink, especially when the engine room is in the 200F range. And for the record i have blown up two computers when the power supply went south, the diodes in the power supply went out and allowed the AC electricity into computer and after about an hour of testing the rig finally BSOD's and i nearly lost all of my data on my hard drives. AC electricity and computers do not mix at all, and ive seen several people build gaming rigs around poor PSU designed system with multi rail PSU's that cannot feed the DC amperage to the graphics cards. For the record i can get a quad core to cool down, but hitting 4.5Ghz on air cooling usually requires a good skill at lapping the CPU. and all of mine are lapped, althout the newer 45nm technology is nothing like the 65s it replaced.
  3. I know I'm in limp mode, and I suspect the pcm is not getting any power, I didn't even think of checking the cruise control. I wish Mike was around.
  4. Update, I went to move the truck and have lost 1st and 4th gears. No check codes showed up. I'm about stumped on this.
  5. I tried raising rpms. I suspect the pcm or the wiring.
  6. So I pulled the alternator out to swap the rectifier, and found the alternator brush pack garbage, so I pulled the old Napa alternator out and swapped the rectifier into it. I installed the alternator into the truck and hooked the batteries up. Then I started it and checked AC voltage, got .025vac, then switched the volt meter to DC, and it read 12.25v. Puzzled I checked the idiot gauge and sure enough it wasn't charging. I then pulled the old alternator out put it back in and now the truck is still not charging. I took the charging lead off the alternator and it is .05v. I haven't checked for codes, but I will when I locate my scan gauge 2. Anyone have any ideas?
  7. So after 3 weeks the tc lock up issues came back. I pulled the alternator to swap in Larry b' s diode pack only to find out the brush was garbage. So I pulled out another Napa alternator and cleaned up the brush pack and slip rings. I then installed Larry's diode pack in. I'm installing it tonight into the dodge. I will keep everyone updated.
  8. So after 3 weeks the tc lock up issues came back. I pulled the alternator to swap in Larry b' s diode pack only to find out the brush was garbage. So I pulled out another Napa alternator and cleaned up the brush pack and slip rings. I then installed Larry's diode pack in. I'm installing it tonight into the dodge. I will keep everyone updated.
  9. There are only two ways to be oil into the diesel, the front seal of the vp, or you got a bad injector o ring, or the o ring is torn, sitting up, there is another copper o ring inside. The fuel in the return of the head is at low pressure and if your head was cracks you would see it. I have seen front seals fail on vp pumps, and I've seen injector o rings fail from being forced in.
  10. Well the lockup issues came back with the stock rectifier. I'm currently getting over a hip injury so when I get better I will swap in the new one from Larry b.
  11. Make sure you also loosen the blue lock bars on the injector lines, this way they will match up. But I snug the lines tighten the injectors, then go back and retighten the lines on the cross over tubes.
  12. Larger injectors help with noise as well. I have my valve lash set to .08/.18 as well.
  13. What programmer do you have on the truck. My trans shifts funny with my smarty.
  14. I typically find you need more like 5-6 quarts. Well when I do mine anyways.
  15. The lock up switch works great with an exhaust brake, but I advise you should have s billet flexplate and input shaft. Not having them is risking serious damage to the transmission pump and torque converter.
  16. I got the impression that he doesn't need anything else then a fuel pressure gauge. I have watched boodt leaks when towing cause egt spikes, climbing hills and when passing.
  17. I run 100's with my Hx35 and have no issues passing people with my smarty.
  18. Don't fool yourself. I've seen crazy things with diesels. I could see c
  19. I'm running a FASS 95, and with my 150 spring mod and fuel line I see 18 at idle 17 or so under load.
  20. Hey guys, I pulled my alternator apart the other day and saw that the slip rings were horriable and were starting to really eat into the brush pack. So today I shot a video of my alternator AC voltage, pulled the alternator and then polished the slip rings and then the brush pack. Initial testing was somewhat promising as the tc lock up didn't return. The ac voltage was more stable, very stable infact. However, the AC voltage was still higher then desired.
  21. Hey guys, I pulled my alternator apart the other day and saw that the slip rings were horriable and were starting to really eat into the brush pack. So today I shot a video of my alternator AC voltage, pulled the alternator and then polished the slip rings and then the brush pack. Initial testing was somewhat promising as the tc lock up didn't return. The ac voltage was more stable, very stable infact. However, the AC voltage was still higher then desired.
  22. I got my rectifier from Larry B' s and according to the photos my brother sent me this thing looks legit. When I get back from over the road I will be ripping alternators apart. And I will have an article written up for this. I was surfing Amazon and found denso builds alternators for sale and was tempted to buy one and see how their build quality is.
  23. Got my rectifier from Larry B and from the photos my brother showed me this thing looks legit. I'm still out over the road, but when I get back I will be ripping alternators apart.
  24. My stock auto lasted 77k with heavy towing, I now suspect that my trans was still fine but I went to put in a vb, and ended up doing a whole built trans. Now she has 120k and since the issues were worked out it does tow good, minus the bull shot I deal with, like the alternator and such. I would go with a good name builder like goerend, suncoast, revmax. And let them build you a trans to your specs. My current truck will tow a house over, and has pulled one of our work trucks that died on the scale at 79,960lbs, but the company that built my trans I have not heard much about since they built mine.
  25. I will be pulling both of the alternators apart to compare them. And I hope that the rectifier will work in both. I will also make an article out of it as well.