LorenS

Remember in your case with that style of pump you'll have an "extra" return. The stock return line is untouched. The new return from your FASS will go to that second hose barb (port R),per instructions you posted. In years past, that return was to a wye or tee cut into the filler neck hose.

You aren't kidding. I believe I bought Cover Craft seat covers in 2017. Darn expensive but they are DURABLE! And for at least the first few years quite coffee repellent. 🙄

Is it possible for the grid heater to cause this through some fluke?

I'd be shopping for a Kevlar scarf - with spikes!

Geno's solely focuses on Ram trucks and is great. The staff is quite knowledgeable. They are associated with the Turbo Diesel Register. I don't believe they sell any junk and I've only heard good things about the customer service. In my dealings with them I haven't needed customer service, which is the highest form of perfection in my book!

This is true for their 1 year warranty, $1300 model, but the computer is listed as "upgraded", just used; my assumption would be that the newer pump computers don't fail as often so if they get back a pump that ate some debris and failed, the computer would still be fine. The more expensive models with longer warranty apparently have a NEW computer. That said, why someone wouldn't buy a DAP unit sourced from a Bosch certified rebuilder I don't really know. If I broke down near a Seidel Diesel Group (Midwest Fuel Injection) facility I would use theirs; for all I know they are the supplier to DAP.

I really like my Centramatics, but admittedly they weren't cheap. No odd tire wear, and they're essentially permanent.

I recently chucked my damper in the trash and have no intention of replacing it. Not all trucks came with them, right? Was it a trim level marketing thing, a band aid to death-wobble, or something else? I ran awhile with a clearly useless and worn out damper, then put on a damper that wore out quickly in highway driving, and now the truck is damper free. Can't really tell a difference!

The y-type steering may be best for folks that off-road a lot. My truck rarely leaves smooth terrain, not needing lots of articulation so I put on the t-style and like it a lot. Changing control arms was NOT fun at around 280k miles. Buy new bolts, have your smoke wrench handy. I bought an A/C Delco Gold track bar and it's very heavy duty compared to others I have seen. It may be a rebranded MOOG for all I know, so also available at NAPA under their naming system. The yellow Bilsteins didn't last as long as I'd hoped on the front of the truck. I hypothesize that constantly running in the same 1/2" of travel on smooth roads just made them wear very fast in one place, versus a little wear along a longer travel. Replaced with KYB per Moparman recommendation.

The short answer is yes, but I wouldn't spend much time and/or money investigating that scenario before installing everything again and torqueing down in the correct order.

Bought my truck with a TIMBOS 75k miles ago. I, too, have another for a spare but it's not under the seat.

Or this one? Just swipe left or right for different gauge arrangements.

I bought my truck with 270k miles or so, and I'm certain they were original injectors. On changing them out they were pressure tested and one would discharge just from the weight of the tester handle! The others just puked fuel, no spray. Reman units all had the FSM pop pressure with a nice pattern.

Clearly they weren't on my truck.

I would say yes. First time I changed my fluid when getting the truck there was a lot. And there was a lot the next couple of times as I changed the fluid in shorter intervals because I swear at 270k miles it was the stock fluid - so, so nasty, viscous, and black. Then a couple of months ago I drained the axle fluid again when I wanted to adjust the preload in my limited-slip diff, and there was a little less than there used to be.

I understand the issue of returning to the basket, but I also know that the fuel coming through my strainer on the suction side of my pump is nowhere near 160.

Does the OP have a means to view fuel temperature? I have a FASS 90-100 GPH pump mounted similarly to the frame and have seen fuel temps over 160 ⁰F on 90⁰ days, just cruising down the interstate for hours at 2000 RPM. The spin on filter ahead of the pump was nowhere near that hot. At 1/3 gallon per minute flow, I can't imagine the stock filter housing transmitted that much heat, so it either came from the VP44 (in which case Mopar1973man would have similar fuel temps and he doesn't) or it comes from the lift pump churning the fuel.

I really don't recall. The Quad doesn't read codes, as I recall. Can't say my truck has had any codes since I bought the Quad (knock on wood), so could be wrong on that.

Well there you go! Had no idea this pump exists. Seems like a terrible pump choice for a mostly stock, street driven truck. Just churning that fuel in circles, getting hotter and hotter with each pass through the pump without even a chance to cool off in the tank.

I'm fairly certain every Airdog 150 does NOT return internally. And it should not utilize the cylinder head/VP44 return line as it is too small. The AD 150 (and similar) should have it's own dedicated return line - whether back to a connection on your draw straw or a tee on the filler neck hose. Do you have photos of your setup you can post?

That's what I get for posting before reading the whole thread! This is a real mystery. I look forward to reading your updates on the matter.

This sure sounds like tune to me. Like someone set it up so at startup it runs one way (for whatever reason) then cuts power until the engine is up to temp.

I don't know about the fellow's garage, but my truck hasn't been started in weeks and I've never stored food under the hood. Maybe some folks do, I don't know. The fact it's dry and safe from hawks is my best guess as to why it's popular with this one squirrel. Oak and walnuts trees everywhere around so no need for chewing my wires, they're just a chew toy.

I certainly wouldn't go to a dealer. Looks like you're not far from Knoxville, so if I were you I'd call these guys since they're a Bosch shop - at minimum they may know a reputable local shop to test and clean injectors. If not, or you have the time send them to @dieselautopower. The Knoxville guys: https://cdkdiesel.com/common-rails/injectors/

210k miles on injectors, I'd start there if you are financially able to do so - at least get them checked out. I changed mine at maybe 290k miles (no idea if they'd been changed before) and one couldn't hold even 100 PSI! None of the others were anywhere near specification.