CSM

I would expect oil leaks within a month of firing it back up unless you find someone to drive it a couple times a month. Long term storage has a way of finding weak seals. Not awful, but id expect a couple new leaks.

You dont just ask to look under a wizards friggin hat, Sir.

Well, take it out. And run the heck out of it. If you cant break it, it must be ok... its the American way! My 2000 had the same thing but ran beautifully otherwise.

Any codes?

Only if you beat me to it!

Thats a nice truck. Trade you my running saturn for it! Haha!

I wouldnt start it again until you figure out the fuel lift pump. You will kill or further damage the injector pump.

ltz. I mean this kindly, bud. I would like to see you happy and able to fix your truck. To effectively do that, it would be courteous to us and would make people more motivated to help you if you try writing as clear a response as possible. Writing in all caps is understandable sometimes, for really old farts, but isn't necessary here. This is a written dialogue with us being 24 valve enthusiasts, who like to help others. It is easier if you answer questions, and keep things as clear as posslble. I know you are capable of communicating clearly and taking the time to give this community the respect they deserve for helping you. It is a good group of dudes. If you can't, you can leave. You aren't 85 years old and illiterate.

Hey Mike, thanks for all you do. This isn't #1 priority in life!

Thanks. Spam will be locked. Keep all traffic on this in the below thread.

First off, paragraphs. The wall of text is difficult to read. Second. Have you pulled codes with a code reader or just on the dash odometer?

Note to self... don't get drunk and ban this guy. He is a good guy.

I want pictures of this 1500, it sounds Freiburger Mint! The motors are pretty underpowered but reliable with an occasional tune up. While its out take the intake manifold off and fix the internal seal which is leaking and making it drive badly. I had a 97. I would take pictues of the connectors on the truck and go look at the engine. It is likely the same.

Sounds like a good time to walk the woods... especially if you are a local.

I am eager here as well. My current lab is an idiot, unlike the previous who was trained. However, the Berettas are ready to go!

They have internet in Nebraska? Who knew?

At this altitude? Hard to say. At low altitude (300' at KLIT), it was a monster by my standards. TFaoro had the same setup as a single with a manual and was in the high 400s (sketchy dyno read 505hp). I would say that peak power on a good cool day is probably about the same, but the rest of the curve is far lower than it was at low altitude. The truck is also far smokier.

Put it in 4x4 and carry on!

One step at a time. I gotta try the Quad first... not have it make me 100% happy, then go twins... they try the quad again... Order of operations!

Quad is awesome. and I am going to try one in the next month thanks to a friend of ours... However, twins are cool. I wouldn't mind getting away from tuners aside from a basic smarty lvl 3 tune and sell my TST comp. Just injectors, air and the Smarty.

Roll into it at a normal pace keeping up with traffic off a stop with no smoke in 95F summer weather. Though, if I flail wildly at the accelerator pedal, no smoke would be nice too.

Basic Setup Engine: Stock with studs, Industrial Injection 62/12 turbo, 125 SAC injectors Trans: ATS low stall converter, billet input Goal: NO SMOKE, instant boost, and lots of spinny turbine noises. I don't need more power, but if I get it, oh well. The questions are: 1. Will twins get this done for me? I think so, @TFaoro had the same turbo and injectors when he went twins and he said it was instant boost and no smoke (until he blew up his intercooler.) 2. What secondary to use? I am looking at Crazy Carl's S475 and S472... He has three options for both. Select the smaller turbine (83/1.10) for towing, Select the large turbine (96/1.32) for racing, Select the medium turbine (92/1.10) for midrange response/power. With these options, I am thinking an S472 with the 83 turbine and 1.10 housing to pair with my 62/12. Thoughts anybody?

you could just buy a 3rd gen... Haha.

Basic ATS stage 2. ATS converter, low stall... probably wouldn't do that again. Nice for driving around town, but marginal for towing. ATS billet input full rebuild with Borg Warner red lining ATS valve body I probably could have gotten off way cheaper elsewhere, and now I would likely go through our site vendor, as he seems a good dude. Caj Flynn, our former high miler, with a 02 auto with 1.2 mil miles or so it had a couple tidbits for towing with an auto: For heavy towing at GCVW, you will break input shafts every 180k or so of really heavy towing. He recommended a billet input, a valve body/trans kit, and a good torque converter with more than one clutch. Manuals will break eventually too. The valve body should increase the line pressure to the point that the stock bands work fine, but a small bump helps. There are other governor mods, sensor mods, etc, but those three above are the basics of reliability. Slipping of the converter clutch or bands creates heat and excess wear. Heat breaks down fluid which also cools the clutches. When parts and oil get too hot they aren't properly lubricated and they start breaking down. Once the gears start to have noticeable surface fatigue, it is only a matter of time. This is the same as a manual, but with a manual we tend to forget they are there. Stock, the manuals are far tougher than the autos. For high power high load applications with a well built auto... I think its a wash. For drivability, IMO, the auto has a big jump from 2nd to 3rd that the 5sp or 6sp manuals don't. Manuals also have granny gear, which is really nice at times. Personally, I would always rather tow heavy with a manual than an auto. However, I don't like rowing across town. Something else to keep in mind about fatigue. Autos and manuals need more than just bearings, bands, and syncros replaced. Both the 47RE and the NV4500 have gears in them and shafts that wear out. A full rebuild of either trans should address all this, which is why an early rebuild of either trans will be much cheaper than a rebuild after all the gears need replaced. @Dynamic is the man for transmissions as far as I know on this forum. I've had good luck with my ATS trans, but I've also talked to folks who got screwed over by ATS. I can't say I was impressed with their shop staff or customer service, but they got it done quickly and it has run excellent. PS, if I were going to do a manual swap, I would probably do a G56 like TFaoro did. The NV series manuals are good, but they aren't a G56. PSS. There is a reason than manual trucks came with dana 80s and not 70s! If you swap to a manual, start looking for a dana 80.

Try it before you go through the pain of a manual swap. I don't have 2nd lockup, and frankly, I don't need it. A quality converter and good valve body make a huge difference.