CSM

I have seen this before on an old 88 Chevy. We had some corrosion making contacts in the trailer lights plug on the bumper.

I agree. It will give you an idea, similar to if you floor it off the line. The RPM at which you really start to feel the push and stop seeing your RPM rapidly change is your stall at that load. Stall changes with load, engine RPM, and engine/trans differential RPM.

I added a MSD ignition system. The old distributor was shot with no vacuum advance and the timing parts drifting all over the place. The parts to rebuild it aren't in production and NOS parts are extremely expensive on eBay. The choice was either get a new Mopar electronic ignition system or an MSD. I found a good deal on the MSD kit, and it was about the same price as a Mopar kit. It has way better power now! I kinda think that the original points distributor was jumping about 3-5 degrees at idle and not advancing at higher RPM. All my old cars will have MSD distributors from here on out. Well worth every penny. All it needs is a 12v source and a ground. It came with all timing adjustment springs, bushings, the coil even came with the prong to bypass the ballast resistor. It even has a built in rev limiter! Not bad at all, especially as a factory refurb unit! Next is the right front brake, which is leaking fluid. The car stops ok, but it likely needs a cylinder or line. I am going to take a look at both wheels. The rear drums are pressed on, so I am not going to look at those til I need to. After that, new exhaust, trunk floor, seat covers, the speedo needs tuned up, window tracks need cleaned on the rear doors and I have some vacuum lines to chase down. I will rebuild the carb when I get around to it, but it runs well enough now that I am not too concerned. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4LuU_ZKMucceHJ4ZDJsLTBVcDg/view?usp=sharing

I havent started a thread. It comes and goes.

Hopefully it helps! Either way, i doubt dynamic will steer you wrong.

A converter will stall differently depending on load. However, it will fall within a general range. You can think of it as the RPM the converter changes from a turbine that converts a given torque and RPM (horsepower) to a different RPM and mathematically required torque for that RPM (think a variable gear ratio). After stall, the converter becomes must less like a turbine, and becomes closer to maintaining the same RPM. There is always some loss, turned to heat, unless you are in lockup. Old cars prior to the mid 70s didn't have lockup, and always had a few hundred or more difference in RPM after stall from the engine to the transmission input. To determine what you want requires a little thought. The basic concept is that you want to look at your power curve, turbo curve, and determine where on the RPM band you want the engine to fully load up. Examples. On a race car, you see converters up to 7000rpm or more. These allow the engine to flash to high RPM where the engine develops peak horsepower before stalling. On my truck that is built for daily driving, I wanted a stall that would load the engine at around 1300 RPM, as I felt that I had enough horsepower there to roll off the line. I don't like it as much now with my bigger turbo, and wish I had a 1700-1800 stall converter. When towing, I don't have enough torque there in first gear sometimes. The engine is held at 1200-1300 RPM which is too low for the turbo to spool without copious amounts of extra energy put into the turbo (fuel = excessive smoke). On a race truck, you might want a higher stall converter, same as the race car mentioned above. At low altitude, my setup is perfect. I don't smoke, I can run the smarty & TST stack hard enough to max my injectors flow, and it runs amazing. Once I moved back to Colorado however, I have to baby it off the line on hot days as I don't have enough smokeless power to accelerate quickly. If I had a higher stall converter, it wouldn't be a big deal. Another variable, the rest of the truck should be considered too. If I had 4:10 gears and standard tires, my lower stall converter would be just fine, as the power required to get moving with those lower gears wouldn't be as high. Last note, I have had an intermittent lockup hunting problem that I haven't yet found the fix for. The low stall converter is much less violent than a high stall when it moves in and out of lockup.

Something has moved... hard to say what. Could just be surface wear or something building up in the grooves of the ac pulley. In the past i have used belt dressing or soap as a temporary fix.

Moparman, if you consider this a hijack, then move the posts... in my obviously infallible opinion (levity), I think it is likely easier to drive a manual with a big single without smoke than an auto. My point was that in a race or considering hp/lb efficiency, a properly tuned auto will smoke a manual for area under the curve any day of the week. I like my auto. I sold my 5sp to buy an automatic. There are days I regret it. It is a tradeoff. However, I strongly disagree with the concept that an auto needs a smaller housing to work or that an auto needs a smaller turbo for performance gains. An auto needs more understanding and torque converters are mysterious things. Manuals are pretty simple. If I had a choice, my primary truck would be a near stock 2007 mega cab auto and my second a 2002 p pumped ex cab manual with twins.

You are right regarding a low stall converter liking smaller turbos. However, even a tight converter will be faster in a drag race as you can leave the accelerator floored during shifts. If the shifts/kickdown are set right, the trans will shift at the right points resulting in a faster truck than a manual as the driver doesn't have to lift for shifts. IE: the engine revs stay up, the EGTs stay up to keep the turbo pumping, and you get more energy into the system. I like my low stall converter for driving around town. I hate it for towing. I regularly wish I had a high stall converter. The stall is the point at which the converter really starts to move and fully load the engine. It converts torque, as its name states, but I kind of wish mine loaded at 1600 rather than the 1200 it does. (all this is variable on load, power, and temperature). A normal stall converter will stall and fully load the engine at near the point most turbos spool.

I would also consider removing the front driveshaft. If the tcase lets go that will minimize damage.

Funny point that is totally against common truck thought. I totally agree with you. The auto trucks tend to be significantly faster throughout the curve as the exhaust gas energy stays higher during shifts than a similar manual where the driver has to reduce the throttle. However, the way most folks drive they can make it smoke less with a manual by only fueling heavily when the engine is at 2000 or so. Also, most automatics don't have a properly adjusted kick down.

Awesome! I am glad you like it.

What im curious about is how your mpg will change.

First off, God Bless you for paragraphs! You mention dead pedal, and some odd behavior with idle. You've done most of the work. You've even mentioned codes. I am inclined to wonder if the APPS needs replaced. Is there a link with the APPS? Meaning, with the info you gave us, is it running roughly above the 12% that you show as spiking?

Probably quite true. I am waiting for a supercar OEM to come out with an axial flow turbo or axial/centrifugal turbo, complete with guide vanes. It may not be off a 24V originally. It came with my truck and lord knows where it came from.

I used an incantation passed down from generation to generation. It gets better over time and dates back to the civil war, but I may not be using the right one. Using a civil war Sergeants Incantation about enlisted men explains why my electrical connections get stuck too. In all seriousness, I use a combination of small to large screwdrivers, lots of rocking back and forth, cleaning the connection, oiling it with penetrating oil sometimes, and prying just short of breaking or bending plastic. When you do get it apart, use some dielectric grease and you likely won't have problems in the future.

Lets see how mike likes it. It might be worthwhile, with your brake. These tend to be cheaper than most other turbos.

I never had any surging issues. The cruise control on automatic trucks is never happy with non stock fueling, but that's a different issue.

It should take a bit more heat to light, but after it is lit it should be a tad bit more powerful at a given HP level. The only real driving difference with it compared to a stock turbo was that the hybrid is easy to bark.

It has a nice whine as well. Kinda high pitched and way different than my current Borg Warner. I am really curious to see what your temps do and how the quad tuning changes from a stock turbo!

I am guessing, but I bet when they designed it offset keys were cheaper than keeping the tolerance stack from getting too carried away. There is a lot of angular tolerances in that stack of spinny pumpy thingys.

@crf450ish The intake valves will get that way from excess oil getting past overly worn valve guides & seals and burning on the hot valve.

I hate it when my niddels get toched.

@CLAUS1 fill out your signature.