CSM

I will let you know when I find out.

Thanks. I need to call Goerend, the trans shop, BD and CVC and pick their brains. The thing is for me, is that torque causes slippage and broken parts, not horsepower. The only part that actually sees a direct affect from the horsepower is the converter stators and the ATF. Horsepower moves you down the road and is the measure of what you feel pushing you into the seat and your E.T. times/sled distances/etc. HP=TorqueXRPM/5252 I did a rough curve fit shown in the figure below (dug out some engginerin knowlege) of a stock dyno chart and scaled it to fit a conservative hp number for my truck based off 10hp/psi boost minus some other factors to estimate peak torque. I come up with about 835 lb-ft peak... well over the stock converter I have but less than the 1200 lb foot that the CVC is rated to. Especially since I have a torque converter lockup switch and I will only be engaging the clutch at high temps, cruise, down hills, and after 2nd gear. Heres my plan... SFI flex plate, unknown input shaft as of yet, Shop Stop valve body, and I will pick the torque converter with the lowest stall that I can find. If the CVC stalls at a comparable number to the Goerend, I will likely go that route. For the input shaft, the builder says that he has gone to the hardened shaft on quite a few drag trucks that race competitively at Bandimere and he said he has seen only one failure. Much like your SFI plate, if the trucks are built up and they work at the races, thats probably good enough for me. I just need to verify the sort of engines and launches the trucks have in them. If they are in the 500-600 hp range and race a lot, I will give it a shot. I don't drive like an idiot very often, and tow like a little old lady. I need Wild N Free to come do a drive by of this thread since he has done a fair amount of automatic work with his old truck if i recall correctly.

So what stall should i expect with a Goerend triple disk? I currently am about 2700. I would like to be at about 2000... but that may be asking a lot from this 47RE. I honestly think that the single clutch will "hold" the engine that I have, as I find it VERY unlikely that I am putting out more than 1200 ft-lb of torque, but I think that the Goerend unit will last much longer with proper fluid changes due to the increased surface area of the clutches. What valve bodies are you guys running? I definitely need line pressure to be upped, but I am somewhat trusting the tranny guy to build it right on that end, since there is no real quantitative way to compare one to the other. I don't doubt the Goerend holding, I would like to do a . And to be honest I am not sure about the cryo input shaft... I am thinking on that one. The sfi flex plate is a winner for me and I will likely go that route. I don't plan on any other performance mods other than ARP head studs... and possibly a cam/valve springs later on if I get around to it.Another interesting note: the trans guy Shop Stop in Longmont, CO, recommended tighening the bands to 27 in-lbs and backing off two full turns. This is slightly tighter than the factory spec, but makes some sense to me, as long as the bands don't rub. What do you guys set your bands at?

Bought a set of new ones from him myself... Easy deal.

The new truck I bought (2002 in sig) turns out to have a bit different trans than the seller advertised... I still would have bought the truck, but I need to make some changes. The trans was the only non stock part I couldn't verify before the quick sale the guy needed.The trans was supposed to be a BD torque converter, billet input, street/towing valve body, and sun coast guts. I did some hunting and found the shop that did the trans. The builder was a good guy and honest with me. He also let me know that his 3 year 36k mi warranty also applied to me, since he knows the truck. What I got was a hardened cryo treated input shaft, CVC stock replacement converter, good set of clutches/bands, and a mild hand modified valve body. I discussed the options with him in making the trans a bit more sturdy so I don't burn out anything prematurely. He offered a CVC single clutch billet converter that CVC rated at 1200 ft/lbs and a moderately worked street / strip valvebody for $600, and since he did the trans, he said he would keep the stock CVC converter for a $120 core, totaling $480. I am seeing a peak of 48 or so psi of boost when I roll on the throttle, and I want something that I could still tow some with, but something that will still run through the gears fairly well without burning out at either. I am thinking of taking him up on the deal, as the hardened input should be good for what I need and if the rest of the internals are okay I should be in good shape to drive and occasionally tow.As I've mentioned... I know little about automatics. What do you guys think?

I live in Denver and grew up on the farm in N. Colorado. My work takes me throughout the "rockies" region, ND, WY, UT, CO, SD, MT, & NM. A lot of ND this month and next, then probably some work in Utah and possibly Wyoming. I will be in Minot tomorrow night and probably up in NoDak through the second week of June. I would like to pick your brain on automatics sometime... as this is the first time I have had an automatic since my 97 Ram 1500.

Yeah. It really sucks on the industry end too... I hate booms and busts. Booms are bad for the workers and for the locals... and are only really good for some of the companies poised to make good money from the boom and pay out their investment before things slump. I have seen some of the locals in Williston do pretty well though... They were able to get some water and sewage service to their land on the outskirts of town and they leased out man camp space. At $200 a night and being sold out way in advance... I hope they aren't losing money. I was up there in Dickinson last week, and I just about got killed a couple times on the busy roads with the nut jobs running about up there.

For 2nd Gen trucks: There must be a conservation of Cummins, as new ones can not be created, and neither should they be destroyed (or removed from your posession in my case) without replacing the Cummins with another. I don't know what I was thinking when I thought about getting a Tundra. I am not sure what I was drinking that night... I mean, toyota 4runners are great for women and kids, my wife loves hers, but a man needs a truck. I looked at the 3rd gens, as my dad has a couple of them, and I just couldn't love the interior, or the cost of common rail parts. I also have driven 2nd gen Dodges since 1999, and between the parts I have laying about and the meager knowledge I have gained... I just couldn't stand getting anything else! Anyway, I am still a legit part of the "mopar family" as Mike says. And I hope to be on here and wrenching a bit more after these tours of North Dakota end soon. Thankfully I came to my senses! New 02 - http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/5942-New-Truck?p=55078#post55078 Old 2000... On its way out.

My truck QCSB 2000 3/4 ton with helpers weighs in at 8,800 lbs with a full tank... Though, that scale may be a bit off as that really seems heavy.

Sadly Mike, I don't really have the time or space to change it right now, and the purpose it had in hauling from Grand Junction to Denver is over. I rarely even get to drive the truck anymore... I think it may be time for me and the truck to part ways when I get back from my next work trip into the north.

Thanks Mike.I guess I must have either done something to hurt the pump or it was a bad pump... its only been on about 6000 miles or so from midwest diesel.Bummer. Anybody want to buy my truck? :banghead:

Truck seems to "cut out" at higher power output... The cut out of power is abrupt and harsh, as if the engine just shuts off for a few seconds until I let the throttle down. It also has been taking an extra second or two to start. Any ideas guys? Thanks. Here we go again.

I map fracs for a living. Used to frac for a living. Mechanical engineer by training but getting close to something like geophysics/fracture engineer/petroleum engineering at this point... I get a lot of field time on my projects as well, which is nice.

I used the Revo settings, based off SW 9, max timing and -1 from max on duration... When I drive like an idiot, I get 15mpg, when I drive gingerly at 65 on the highway, I get 24mpg at best. General highway driving at 55-65 with some stops was 21-22 ish for the last trip, at about 65 F ambient temp.When I dialed the duration back, the power didn't come in a big lump either... very smooth and controllable.

LMC? I haven't sourced one yet. Can you recommend a supplier? From when I looked before I think I recall finding them on Geno's Garage, but not many other places.

Sometime this year I need to get a carpet set (mine was factory vinyl floor) and my dash is in about six pieces... Anybody buy carpet from Rock Auto? I am thinking of getting it from there.Anybody swap their dash out before? I am dreading taking that thing apart. What other stuff should I change while I have the dash out? The heater core is original, and I am planning on Dyno-Matting the crap out of the firewall, doors and floor for sound proofing.

The EPA is doing what?

Did he buy it at a dealer? If so, I would bring it back and say "fix it." A truck shouldn't break the day after you buy it.

http://www.dmarge.com/2011/12/pickup-trucks-libyan-liberation.html

OH LAWD! ISX is at it again. Fun stuff ISX. You ask the most interesting questions and expect valid answers with NUMBERS in them.

Perfect. If only I wasn't out of beer. Merry Christmas guys.

I thought it was perfectly doable in the 05... I just had to be careful. My dad still has the 05 and I still haul hay and whatnot for him sometimes and its fine. I also rescued my father in laws jeep with it and our 26' flatbed, my 2000 Ram when the VP44 quit, and both those were fine on the highway, and in delivery to their respective shops. That square nosed stock trailer got modified last winter though.

I've done some pulling of a square fronted stock trailer with an 05 4 door short bed. Its something to be careful of. You can pull stuff fine, but you definitely can't cut the truck all the way across the trailer. I only broke the glass once, and after that I became quite paranoid about the clearance. If I were towing a gooseneck a lot, I would probably want a long bed.

Ok. There are a couple things I can do... The easiest thing to do by far would be to just copy from C14:N14 and paste the totals into its correct date row below, it would require a marginal amount of manual entry and the rest of the sheet should still work. I will see if I can get a macro to work for this that would transfer to your computer, although I will say that copy and paste will by far be the easier way to go. update: I don't know of a way to make the lower rows keep their individual values when you change the date to the next day without using something like Access or making something really complex. My current thought is to automate the copy and paste operations with a macro. So basically, if I can figure out some of the details it would just copy the totals line to the running totals sections. Getting the daily totals shouldn't be too bad, since thats just two total copy and paste operations. Getting the individual rows 08, 09, 10... might take a bit more effort. The sheet looks good overall, and should end up pretty well for you. What I have been playing with sofar, you can do with the "Record Macro" function in Excel. Its pretty cool, and there are a lot of good help articles in excel for macros. I don't know a whole lot about it as most of what I know is self taught, but I will see what I can come up with. If this looks too complicated, or not like what you are looking for please let me know. Sub Macro1() ' ' Macro1 Macro ' ' Range("C14:N14").Select 'select the values Selection.Copy ' Range("C26").Select ActiveSheet.Cells(28, 3).Select 'note on above... select the place to paste, i need to figure out how to reference this to the date, that way it pastes to the correct date each day. Then repeat for lower sections. Selection.PasteSpecial Paste:=xlPasteValues, Operation:=xlNone, SkipBlanks _ :=False, Transpose:=False ' ActiveWindow.SmallScroll Down:=12 ' Range("C23:N23").Select ' Application.CutCopyMode = False ' S election.Copy ' ActiveWindow.SmallScroll Down:=15 ' Range("C61").Select ' Selection.PasteSpecial Paste:=xlPasteValues, Operation:=xlNone, SkipBlanks _ ' :=False, Transpose:=False ' ActiveWindow.SmallScroll Down:=-99 End Sub

I am pretty good at Excel, no promises, but I can try to help. What have you gotten done sofar? Can you post some screenshots and examples of the equations? You can show the formulas with crtl+~