banzaitoyota

Part number?

Mine is a spider web of repaired cracks from www.plastex.net

I agree on the price. but if they work!

Has anyone one installed one? Their online literature states they use 12 diodes with 300% more surface area to dissipate heat.

My $500 camper

The only advantage I see is using dry n2,most shops do not properly maintain their compressors ad pump wet moisture laden air into your tires

Uncovered a box of parts from my old first Gen( I miss that truck). The new owner is interested in them, what's a fair price? 16 Holset housing, new Holset rebuild kit ISSPRO Tach 3 gauge pod http://s307.photobucket.com/user/banzaitoyota/media/KIMG0008_zpsevbotctk.jpg.html?sort=3&o=4 http://s307.photobucket.com/user/banzaitoyota/media/KIMG0012_zpstu0wa0ub.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0 http://s307.photobucket.com/user/banzaitoyota/media/KIMG0009_zpskpjo2fog.jpg.html?sort=3&o=2

333K on truck, tyranny rebuilt by dodge at 70K; its starting to show its age. 1qt of fluid every 200 miles, shudders on the 2-3 up shift. I tow a 25' travel trailer and a 5 ton equipment trailer with mini excavator and a single car trailer with my RX2. Budget is the limiting factor, figure 3K max

He did a great job on the drivers side ground cable for me

Has happened twice in the past month; Truck will not charge, Check Gauge light comes on. After 20-25 miles with voltage dropping <10; truck will start charging. No CEL, unable to pull codes. Readers do not connect to my DLC

Has anyone done a crankcase evacuation system similar to those used on gas engines?

Truck is running good now with a crank position sensor and another PCM; but still unable to read codes

ll, keeps getting worse, Now I loose tach signal and the engine surges, Change the cam position sensor and still have the problem. looks like PCM time:mad: [*]

Driving down the road today at 45mph, 16psi fuel pressure: Lost tach, CEL came on and engine cycled between 600 and 1200 rpm. Pulled over and tach came back, engine smoothed out and idled normally. Still unable to connect with code reader.All overhead console functions are working.Radio WorksPulled abs plugs and still got same voltage to Pin 4

Anyone?

Check Engine Light came on again, unnablle to connect tto vehhicle.. does anyone have a good set of reference values at tthe DLC connctor i can compare to?

Here are the values After I fixed the ground open on pin 4

Just got done testing. At the DLC Connector: Pin 3 0.02 V Pin 4 Open, traced to DLC Connector using ECT2000 (Power Probe short chaser) Pin 5: Good Ground Pin 6: 4.98V Pin 7: 4.98 V Pin 11: 2.43 V Pin 14: 4.29V Pin 16 12V Will back trace Pin 4 from G200 Ground termination to DLC Connector to verify problem is the terminal in the DLC.

Retired Nuke Machinists Mate on submarines..Project Designer for the MOX Project in Aiken SC

Harness is good in regards to the DLC pinout. Unwrappped the harness and rewrapped it. have not figurd out what signals i sould be getting at the DLC

I used an Ashcroft gauge snubbber att the fuel filter hhead

Still no communication with the truck thru the DLC --- Update to the previous post... Went to the beach for the weekend, but before i left i picked up some backprobes for the multimeter so i can test Sunday

Disconnected the battteries, removed and cleaned all fuses/relays withh contact cleanr; no codes ths morning

On the way home today, CHECK ENGINE light came on. Then a experienced a surging idle and intermitant tach signal. Plugged in code reader (Actron CP9180 and it can not establish communications with vehicle. I stopped by and tried another code reader and got the same results.What next?

Welcome from Aiken!