OmahaGen2

I bought my 2013 with 118k miles & all welded up. I took it to the dealer for a all wheel alignment, when I got the written report back from the tech it stated, alignment within spec's, but would have adjusted it further had it not been welded. My complaint was the front tires cupping, "Viola" Ram responded by paying to replace the drag link. Pretty certain I am going to go with Thuren track bar & front coils (Thuren's Overland leveling system)

Did you ever figure out how you got water in the system?

I bought my 2013 with Cooper At3 & in spite of what I read about not the best stopping in wet conditions they performed fantastic on 4k mile trip pulling my 15K 5th wheel in a lot of rain, never had a problem one. They did well in the GA mud as well. The fronts cupped a little, but that wasn't the tire. I am getting ready to put Ironman AT's on next.

OK, I thought I had this, but I have only to connections that go to my alternator (see pic) and the other end of this alternator lead goes into the large loom & then breaks out by the VP44 and up to the negative side of the PDC. I also have a power lead going from the drivers side battery to the PDC. I also have a ground going from the drivers battery to the fender & one from the drivers side to the frame. (I had already changed out the cables with a kit several months back) Never had a problem except for T/C lock unlock started happening..unhooked the power from the PDC 140 amp to test.......it eliminated the T/C problem.......changed the alternator out, put on a additional ground from the PCM to passenger battery. Worked for a while...and now I am opened up the loom seperated out the grounds & I am not sure about what to do with the PDC negative. I would think big awg ground, but why isn't my truck fried? again no other problems or codes..Ok I figured it out. It looks like a ground cable, but it is NOT..If I had kept reading which I did..I did run a extra ground battery to battery. And yes I triple checked where it runs to..

As Always thank you (and everyone) for taking the time to document, taking pictures and sharing.. .I could not afford this truck without the information I have gained from this forum & that's a fact. So about this modification, I am not sure where I missed it, so just to clarify, the alternator lead going across the motor to the PDC is eliminated. In it's place we will have: A. Alternator charge lead from the alternator to passenger battery.. B. A power lead from the drivers side battery to the PDC. (The grounds I believe I have correct & will be done with all in about an hour) Electrical is my Achilles heel .......LOL I ON EDIT; once the B+ charge wire from the alternator is moved the shorter distance to the passenger battery, a great solution, but you lose temperature battery sensing with the sensor still on the drivers battery. You can either move the sensor over to the other battery, with some modification, or run more parallel cables battery to battery. It will need two more heavy cable negative to negative and one more heavy positive to positive. My solution is to run one longer B+ charging cable to the drivers side battery. Without the battery temperature sensing feature on an old battery that develops a shorted cell will cause the PCM to keep charging the battery at full tilt. The alternator will get smokin' hot and can cause damage. Luckily I got home before any real damage to the PCM or other possibility of a fire. I popped the hood , knowing something was wrong and the alternator was so hot it was smokin. You couldn't touch it. I replaced it and both batteries and all was fine. I did notice where the shrink tubing on the charge wire started to melt as well. I'm glad I caught it when I did. AN IMPORTANT UPDATE: A recent conversation with Billy (W-T) he spoke about the absolute importance of properly paralleling both batteries by adding one more positive to positive cable and two more negative to negative cables. This a much better solution than all other options so that the computer will be able to temperature sense what one bank of batteries need as one battery bank. Not having a situation of charging one battery while the other has the temperature sensor. IOW, they need to be properly paralleled as one battery. This very important factor has been eliminated from W-T's original write up, so I just wanted to bring this up.

Exactly what I couldn't figure out..What about charge line to the PDC? And here is the answer, Thank you...not sure how I missed it before or if that was missing, but I was really starting to scratch my head.. Thanks to all that contributed to this..You guys are the best.

Thank you for gathering up the different pics for the different angles, etc This is a real help as I am trying to get mine glued back together ..just can't see paying that $350-(partials replacement) to $800 price tag I would seriously look hard at a couple 2009-2015 dash mod's I've heard a little about before dropping $800

I put LEDs in my license plate lights (as well brake lights) & they to help when backing up.

Sorry for the long delay. Had to finish it up & slam it into the paint shop. Found a couple problems & fixed a few. #1 1688 was operator error, New VP plug (3 prong under pump) was NOT plugged in. 2. The harness they sent works fine if you hook it up correctly (I had the wrong instructions & that was "mostly" on Fass). 3. Return line regulator (Spring with checkball) was stuck. Ball became stuck in spring, etc & was spiking the fuel pressure. So since I corrected these issues: No more codes, return fuel starts immediately as it should (although I think the return line should be as big as the inlet side in ***) & with the "New & Improved" regulator they sent immediately, All is well again. I did install the 165 & correct me if I'm wrong, but with the proper return the only down side is it keeps polishing fuel. I updated & upgraded quite a bit at one time (more than I probably should have), but I was in already in there right? I did get the New VP44 (rebuild with new ALL) new Injectors, tubes, vac pump rebuild, water pump, belt, & tensioner, Bolied, tested the radiator (due to catch can tube) (WOW, Mine looked just like the pic's you have on here,) Remote catch can & line, Harmonic dampner, Front crank seal, new gauges fuel/pyro/boost in the pod, (removed 3 miles of dead wiring under dash, 1 was an actual phone landline) reworked wiring for gear vendor overdrive, wrapped all other wiring, detailed the motor a bit. & here she is running. I have yet to install Quadzilla & APPS although I have them. Btw, I could not have done all this without this forum. Thank you. New VP44.mp4

I installed a Fass Fuel pump & water seperation system & in the instructions it simply says unplug the power for the stock lift pump. Well needless to say that equals codes & Fass tech support had 2 suggestions. 1. leave it uplugged & if the code bothers you some code readers will erase that code from the system. Umm no. 2. If you go to an auto parts store you can by a resistor, "I believe it's 5 ohm & plug the power line into that & it simply tricks the ECM into thinking that it is plugged in and working fine. (hmm sounds like a guess, guessing I can do on my own thx) So anybody have a better idea? I'm actually getting 3 codes & it almost started twice, but I refuse to do long cranks. I have fuel up to the injectors already I started with 1,3,5 lines being loose. P1693 JTEC detected companion?, P1688 Internal Inj. pump controller failure, P0238 (I think) transfer pump curcuit out of range. Going to finish reviewing all my installs check it again after clearing codes & trying to fire it again. Thank you all. ! P.S. The instructions on this Fass System leave a lot to be desired I mean WOW. Another time I will elaborate.

Well done, great pics & obviously very easy to understand. So why not change out the banjo bolt for a easy 90 & a fuel rated hose back to the tank?

The way this is written, I wish I would have started here first regarding fuel pressure & just how the overflow valve affects it as well. One item though, so what do you suggest for that 5 mile steep grade downhill? Sure you can play with the throttle a little, but?

I was thinking along those same lines, but wanted to hear it from someone wiser than myself. On the rebuild side of all this..thank god. Work just keeps getting in the way. Appreciate the feedback.

Here is my question regarding the timing cover (see pics) there is significant paint and/or powder coating on the inside of the cover where the seal is installed. Any advice on this? Remove the build up without changing the shape nor scratching or putting a grove into it? I noticed this on the timing gear cover in the video posted here as well, curious if it leaked. (Btw most pic's on this thread & the follow up thread will not open.) I appreciate any input on this. 75K is all I have on the clock & yes it was leaking. TY

This was very helpful, thx for sharing.

Right? I'm with crf450ish, simply done, kinda. Thx for posting changing mine out today. :0)

Oh My, This very helpful, Thank you. I knew this was going to be work, good thing I enjoy working on & with my truck. (most of it) Anything I need to do to remove the smarty tuner? So far (think I almost have it figured out) my list is going to be: Quadzilla with Iquadbt & boost fueler & fuel sensor, Boss Mech lift pump, 100HP dap injectors, new cross over lines, VP44 with new electronics & 2 year warranty, BD Stealth kit (for VP44), cummins remote fuel filter/water seperator, stock lift pump relocator. (Boss Mech works with the stock lift pump for prime) Have a couple other items to add & It could all change by tomorrow. (no jet ski this year).lol

Good Idea, I will check it out. Thank you. I assume this one: https://www.dieselautopower.com/ Or did you mean this one https://puredieselpower.com/diesel-auto-power.html

Okay well this is a wealth of information thank you to all that responded. I am going to do the Hot Wire test tonight, but I am not sure if that will define anything since it would idle previously. I am trying NOT to live in denial about the Inj Pump failure, but it is what it is & the truck sat a long time. I would be grateful for advice on changing out the entire system, I had planned on eliminating the OEM lift pump & the fuel filter/heater with a dual filter cartridge system, but any advise on what system has worked for others would be appreciated. I have been adding 2 stroke oil to the fuel. Anyone have any input on VP replacement? I would of course most likely lean towards a Bosch certified dealer, I find it interesting when places offer 1 year versus 2 yr warranties like Thorughbred (I read the electronic update, etc but come on guys) Thank you again..I will try to keep this project updated with pic's & progress. Thank you for the code responses, we have had 2 hail storms this season so I am very busy, but I am going to dig in and do it myself. Any suggestions on where to get a VP pump or Quadzilla?

Ouch Based on codes? or Behavior? or both? just trying to follow along. TY

Running fine, turn corner push to 1/4 throttle instantly dies coast to shoulder. Sits for about 10 min to give a once over. turn the key it rough idles for 2 min then smooths out. It continued to do this rough idle start & then smooth out. Towed it home. Changed fuel filter, hooked up my Smarty to read codes. (7) codes P0251 Fuel Inj pump fail (replaced lift pump 6 months ago carter) (I can hear it run when bumped) P0252 Inj pump fuel metering P1688 Internal fuel inj pump controller fail P0254 Fuel Inj pump mech fail fuel valve P1693 Generic fault indicating fault in bus or PCM/ECM interface P0602 Control module programming error P0122 TPS low voltage I have not done anything else since changing fuel filter, I would also note that the Smarty gave me definitions slightly dif to what I looked up online such as P1693 JTEC module detectedin companion something or other. Any words of wisdom before I run pump & fill the stock fuel filter system? Thank you.

Thank you. All indicators I have including title check/car fax & seriously looking it over for tell-tale signs before buying the mileage is accurate. So you think I should change it from a Smarty3 tuner to a Quad (I assume you mean quadzilla) ? Everything I read about Tuners Smarty3 was the choice for best and/or practical mpg, etc. (Until I bought it & had it installed then I found 2 respected opinions mentioning the Quadzilla as a possible better choice. My list is so long now of wanted maintenance & upgrades. Dowel, electrical interference (converter lock), transfer case support (supposedly a mount that fits GM will work in a direct fit), cooling system bypass, transducer etc for the Tranny and on & on.

Sorry for not getting this on here sooner..Only excuse: I'm a roofer, we had hail come through, been extremely busy. Here is what I know: Gears should be 4:10 (based on codes), I have a Smarty tuner set on 2, injectors I have zero clue, Automatic with Gear Vendor overdrive that I use every chance I can. I did add a S+B cold air intake & a Banks intake with the down tube, I changed out all battery/power & negative cables & cleaned up all grounds (I believe it was 7 total including the post under the battery box that had 13 corroded ground wires connected to one terminal it.) Installed a new Carter lift pump (temporary until I change the entire system. Wheels: I am running 2018 OEM 18", and let's see removed the BD exhaust brake was rusted shut, but I have it operating now & will reinstall. Let's see I removed the 3 piece driveshaft & carrier bearing & installed a one piece driveshaft.. Transmission gasket/flush, 4 KYB gas adjust shocks (which I like, but I'm, thinking the front coils need replaced) When I have time .S-.belt, water pump, belt tensioner, etc Blow by: Have tried the kettle test (no bounce at all) I had a local shop check it out when I first brought it home, said it needed nothing (I won't go there for now) I now have my gauges Fuel, EGT & boost. & will have them in over the next 2 weeks. I have a 10K bumper pull camper have only pulled 3 times campground & back (within a 100 mile radious) & I use it for work as of right now. I do not beat it at all, I did take it up to Black Hills last year & On the return trip I pulled a aluminum trailer with 2 motorcycles on it. I ran 80+ for about 600 miles & averaged out to 15.6 MPG My first Diesel & I want to add the this site as well as Mopar man helping other forum sites with info, I did it all myself & want to continue to do so. Big Thank you! Miles currently are 76K Ok with all that said, I am thinking it is time to change out the injectors as I suspect they are original. I am after 3 things, Mileage, Dependability & next winters paint job. Any suggestions on what injectors I should try? I will probably have the old ones tested. PS: this was only a test pic for getting the vinyl lettering done

12mpg in town empty..this sucks

Just what I was looking for, I was going to go through the front end & then realized it was the Y drag link. 22 Thanks for taking the time to document & share . Whats with all the ad's covering up the article? Could not get them moved.