IBMobile
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That would be a short run for the wires, A 18-16 gauge wire would work fine.
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You're having problems with the PCM. The PCM grounds terminal 85 of the ASD relay, supplies the info for the fuel and temp gauges, and controls the voltage out put of the alternator. To start with, check the two ground wires coming out of the PCM for continuity to the right side battery. They are both black with tan stripe wires in PCM connector C3 pin #31 and #32 You may want to repair all the splices the factory put in those ground wires in conjunction with doing the WT repair. https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/51_engine/electrical/pcm-ground-splice-repair-r675/
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They are different. 2WD part# 55351114AE 4WD part #55351113AE
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Where are you going to mount it? You can get the power for the lights by splicing into the orange for the ash tray light or at the radio. For constant battery power splice into the red/tan wire at the back of the power outlet and for switched battery power splice into the red/orange wire at the cigar lighter.
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No. I went with the 150 amp fuse while others went with a good quality 150 amp breaker. A cheap breaker trips all the time. Either way it's protection if the alternator shorts to ground.
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- 5 reviews
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Manual Air Recirculation Control The HVAC control in a 1999-2002 2ed generation Ram only has the ability to recirculate air when either the controller is in the OFF or MAX A/C. In all other positions outside air is entering the cab interior. This modification will give you the ability to either have the air recirculation controlled by the factory HVAC controller or have the system in recirculation in any position. How it works The black hose supplies the vacuum to the HVAC system. The green hose supplies vacuum from the HVAC controller to the recirculation actuator. When the mode knob is in the OFF or MAX A/C positions vacuum is applied to the actuator which moves a “door” that blocks outside air from entering the cabin. The mode knob in all other positions blocks vacuum to the recirculation actuator keeping the door open and allowing fresh air into the cabin. The vacuum controller when de-energized will allow the factory settings. When the controller is energized there is constant vacuum to the actuator keeping the air recirculating door closed in all mode settings. What you will need · Vacuum controller (reversing valve) Hella 722240130 · Toggle switch (12V) · 6’ red 18-16 AWG · 3’ black 18-16 AGW · Connector SMP HP3860 or SMP S · Vacuum hose fittings (T and 90°) · Glue, solder, heat shrink, or butt connectors · 5 amp fuse I went to a Pic Your Part wrecking yard for some of these parts. The vacuum controller, connector, wire, and fuse, were from a 2001-2006 Volvo S60/V70 Turbo. The vacuum controller and connector can also be found at Rockauto. The vacuum fittings are from various vehicles. The HVAC controller is from a 2001 Dodge ram1500. What to do Remove the panel below the steering column, this will give you access to all vacuum control hoses. They are located in a bundle left of center under the dash. Find a suitable place to mount the vacuum controller next to the bundle. Cut both the dark green and black hoses and the appropriate hose fittings are installed. If the fitting is a little lose a dab of glue such as Goop for automotive use can be applied to make the connection air tight. Run the red wire from spare fuse location #16 in the junction block at the left side of the dash to the toggle switch and add a 5 amp fuse. The toggle switch can be mounted where you feel comfortable using it. Its style and size is your choice. Install the wire from the toggle switch to the vacuum controller plug and the ground wire from the vacuum controller plug to a metal part of the dash (ohm test for suitability). Push the plug into the controller then secure the controller to either the side of the HVAC housing with double sided tape or zip tie it to something that does not move. There are no warranties implied or expressed. Mockup of controller and hoses Written by: J. Daniel Martin, Martin’s Mobile Maintenance AKA IBMobile 12/17/2020
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From pin #4 at the APP sensor to pin #32 at the ECM. It is the accelerator pedal position sensor ground wire to the ECM.
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This is repairing the ground splices, not the ones at the back of the timing cover, that go to the right side battery. This was missed in the W-T modification. It is an extra repair step in improving the deficient Dodge wire harness. You may also look into adding an inline fuse to the blue wire that goes from the alternator to the PCM for PCM protection. https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/51_engine/electrical/alternator-and-pcm-protection-r617/
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PCM Ground Splice Repair It's not hard and took very little time to do. NOTE: Do this after the other modifications have been done or you will lose the ECM, VP and grid heater grounds. You need: 2 10-12 gauge butt connectors 2 1/4 heat shrink tube 2" long Rosin core solder 140 watt solder gun (Weller) or small butane torch 1 roll of electrical tape Razer knife Wire cutters Wire striper Remove the air cleaner housing this will open up the whole area to work in. No need to disconnect the batteries, just unplug the gray connector at the ground wires of the right (AUX) battery. The other gray connector may have already been disconnected when the ground wires were relocated to the back of the timing cover if a W-T . Disconnect the 3 plugs at the PCM Cut and strip the 8 gauge wire then cut the connector off the 10 gauge wire and strip it back to fit the butt connector. This is the connection with the cove off. This is splice #S109 that the grounds for the ECM, PCM, VP44, grid heater relay and data link connector. Slide the heat shrink on to the wire were it won't be affected by the heat of soldering. Remove any plastic covering on the butt connector; insert the wires into the connector and solder. Let cool then cove with the heat shrink. At the PCM find the two 14 gauge black with tan stripe wires. They go up into the split wire cover about 10" that's where you'll find splice #S126 There are two 14 gauge black with tan strip wires coming down to the connector. One is the ground for the data link connector and the other is not used. Repeat the cut, strip and solder process as above. When done it should look like this. There are no warranties implied or expressed. Written by: J. Daniel Martin AKA IBMobile 2/29/2020
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- 4 reviews
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Adding a Transmission Drain Plug When you have the pan off you may want to install a drain plug in it. Parts needed: 1 M12 x 1.25 x 30mm drain plug 1 M12 x 1.25 nut 1 12mm ID plastic washer Paint (your choice type and color) Tools needed: Hammer Center punch Drill motor ½” drill bit Torque wrench 0-75 FT-LB or 0-300 IN-LB Socket to fit drain plug An automotive supply store like NAPA will have the M12 x 1.25 x 30mm drain plug, nut, and plastic washer. Using a strong (rare earth) magnet on the outside of the pan to hold the nut in place, you can find the area where the drain plug will clear the valve body and a large surface area for flat contact with the sealing washer. The left front corner of the pan has the most clearance. Center punch the spot you want to drill. Drill a 1/2" hole then place the bolt through the hole and thread the nut to it from inside the pan. This will center the nut over the hole. Tack weld the nut to the inside of the pan over the hole in three spots. The three weld spots are done so not to warp the pan and to allow fluid to be able to drain under the nut. After the pan cools clean the outside of the pan and paint to stop rusting. Install the drain plug with plastic washer and tighten no more than 20 FT-LB (240 IN-LB). You may want to have a dedicated 12 quart oil drain container for the ATF. If you have to make adjustments inside the transmission (e.g., replacing solenoids, adjusting line pressure) you can drain the ATF into the container and reuse the fluid if it is still good. Left front corner inside of pan Left front corner outside of pan There are no warranties implied or expressed Written by: J. Daniel Martin AKA IBMobile 2/29/2020
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Disabling Factory Alarm Horn Are you tired of the factory alarm horn going off with 3 honks (tamper alert) when unlocking the door or at other inconvenient times? The horn sounds when the central timer module grounds pin 85 of the horn relay. Here is a simple inexpensive remedy to stop the module from sounding the horn. You cut the wire to the module; the horn will still work at the steering wheel horn button but not with the door locks or key fob. You will need a phillips screwdriver, small wire cutters, and a roll of electrical tape. Remove the three phillips screws at the bottom of the panel under the steering column and pull the panel off, this will allow you to see the central timer module under the dash and to the right side. by joeld79 Find the C2 connector; this will be the white one. You can remove it from the module by pushing the small tab, located in the center of the connector, in and pulling down. Now find the black wire with red tracer that terminates at pin 18 of the C2 connector and cut it leaving about 2-3”; this will allow enough wire if you need to rejoin it at a later time. Finish by wrapping the ends of the wire with the electrical tape; push the connector back into the module, and install the panel. There are no guaranties implied or expressed. Written by: J. Daniel Martin AKA IBMobile 12/10/2019
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Review Monitor Cab Monitor and Rear Trailer Camera Parts list: 50’ roll outdoor Cat-5/Cat-6 cable (Home Depot) 10’ red 18awg 1’ black 18awg 10 ‘split wire loam tubing ¼ diam. 5” color monitor (5” E-KLIN 12-24V car monitor, Amazon) Color camera (E SKY EC170-11, Amazon) 4 pin round trailer wire connector ON/OFF switch, SPST, push or toggle 2 amp fuse Fuse holder Rosin core solder Electrical tape Heat shrink tubing Coaxial cable staples Zip ties 2”x4”x ½”- ¾” plywood or board Flat black spray paint Double sided tape or 3M auto molding tape Clear silicone adhesive 3 #6x ½” screw 1 #8 ring terminal 22-18awg Tools: Wire cutter Wire stripper Pliers Solder gun Small blade screwdriver Phillips screwdriver Drill motor Drill bits ⅛ - ⅜” Hole saw 1⅜” Hammer This system was put together in the spring of 2017 and has been used for over 20,000 miles with no problems. It cost about $80 for the cable, monitor, switch, round 4 pin trailer connector, and camera. The rest of the parts and materials I had on hand. I put in the ON/OFF switch so the monitor can be turned off for night driving. Note: Cameras with inferred night vision may not work well at night if the camera is placed inside the trailer and viewing through glass without outside lighting. Installing Camera and Trailer Wiring First, locate a suitable mounting position for the camera. A rear facing window is ideal and if there is a cabinet next to it the wire connections can be hidden in it. If a rear window is not available a hole drilled through the rear wall next to where the camera will be mounted or the cable run under the trailer and up the outside of the rear wall is an option. Camera mounted in rear trailer window. Run the Cat-5 cable through the trailer from next to the trailer’s seven pin connector, in front, to where the camera’s mounting position will be, leaving 6”-12” of extra cable at the ends, If you have 20’ of cable left you can use it for the truck installation otherwise you will need to buy more. You can drill holes, just big enough, in the walls and floor to pass the cable through. When drilling through the floor be careful not to drill into a holding tank, waterline, or anything else; drilling into an empty storage compartment is best. The Cat-5 cable can be held in place with coaxial cable staples for the walls and zip ties elsewhere. The Cat-5 cable has four sets of 2-24awg: orange, green, blue, and brown. I used the orange set for 12volt feed, the green for the ground, the blue for video signal, and connected the shielding wires from the camera and monitor to the brown. Spray paint the wood black and let dry, attach the camera to the wood with the 2 #6x ½” screws. Solder camera’s: power wire to the Cat-5 orange wires, ground wire to the Cat-5 green wires, video to the Cat-5 blue wires and shielding to the Cat-5 brown pair; sealing each solder joint with heat shrink then wrap cable junction with electrical tape. If the camera is next to a cabinet you can run the wires through a hole drilled in its bottom or side and place connection in the cabinet for concealment. Now, place the two sided tape on the wood and carefully affix it to the window with the camera facing out. Camera view adjustment will be done after the monitor is functional. Installing Monitor and Cab Wiring In the truck cab remove the overhead light counsel and drill two holes in it, see picture; one for the monitor power cable and one for the monitor video cable. Do not remove the cover for the garage door remote pocket, just open it up and remove the square button; you will be passing the cable from the monitor though here. You can install the ON/OFF switch in this area at this time or locate a place that is to your liking. Find the roof bracing and drill a small hole for a short screw that the systems ground wire will be attached to. DO NOT drill through the roof. Find a wire that has switched power to splice into for the systems power. Power draw is about 1amp. Add a 2amp fuse to the red wire and spliced it to the tan wire at the large connector under the left side of the dash between he park brake pedal and the firewall. This tan wire is rated 20amps and is used for the power windows. Picture by Leaky88 You will need to remove the trim cover for the left A-post and drop the left sun visor. The red wire with the Cat-5 cable is run up the left side of the dash, A-post, and between the head liner and roof to the center counsel area. The switch can now be attached to the fused red 18awg wire. On the other side of the switch attach another red wire and solder the free end to the orange Cat-5 wires and the monitor’s power wire. Using the 12” piece of black wire, solder the green Cat-5 wires and monitor’s ground wire to it; attach the other end of the wire to the roof brace with a ring terminal and screw. The video monitor signal cable is solder to the Cat-5 blue pair with the shielding soldered to the Cat-5 brown pair. Heat shrink is used to insulate connections. Install the modified overhead center counsel, sun visor, and A-post cover. Using the suction cup mount attach the monitor to the rear view mirror and run the monitor cables into the center counsel through the square hole that was used for the garage door remote and connect to the system cables. Route the rest of the Cat-5 cable through the left side of the fire wall via the wire grommet, down the left outside fire wall and along the inside of the left frame rail attaching it to the wire harness with zip ties. Find where the round 4 pin plug would work best for your set up. On my truck it was next to the 7 pin trailer connector in the bed side wall. 4 pin round video connector next to 7 pin trailer connector. Drill a hole using a 1⅜” hole saw, that is just a little bigger than the 4 pin round connector, check the size of your connector before drilling; run the Cat-5 cable from under the truck bed through the hole. Attach the cable wires to the male 4 pin round connector but DO NOT screw the male plug to the truck until testing is completed. With the Cat-5 cable running alongside the 7 wire trailer cable attach the female side of the 4 pin round connector to the trailer’s Cat-5 cable leaving the cable a few inches longer than the 7 wire trailer cable. Be sure the wires going to the 4 pins of both ends match up color to color. Rear view monitor with forward view dash cam. Plug the two ends together and turn the power on. The monitor will illuminate and show the view out the back of the trailer but the camera will need to be adjusted horizontal and vertical. Horizontal adjustment is done by loosening the front of the camera by turning its outer cover counterclockwise; this allows the camera to be rotated to get a level view. Vertical adjustment is done by bending the bracket slightly up or down. Two people with radios make this easy. When testing is finished seal the back of the 4 pin connectors with a dab of clear silicon sealer and slide the male connector into the hole and secure with 2 sheet metal screws ¼” x 1”. The exposed Cat-5 cable coming from the trailer can be covered with ¼” split wire loam tubing and secured to the larger trailer cable with zip ties. If you have a bumper pull trailer a bracket can be made out of sheet metal or angle iron and attached to the trailer hitch. When the monitor is not being used it is cover with the bag it came in, placed back in its’ box, and store in the center arm rest. Read through this a few times and have all materials and tools before starting. There are no guaranties implied or expressed. Written by: J. Daniel Martin AKA IBMobile 11/29/2019
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Grid Heater Bypass Simplified The method described below is a simplified way of turning the grid heaters on and off when starting the engine and reducing the electrical load on the alternator without setting a P0380/P0382 code. The bypass solenoid is a 300amp rated Ford type starter solenoid. When both grid heaters are on there is about 180amp draw and after start up the draw is reduced to 90 amps so the bypass relay has a 50% plus overload safety factor. Suggested Parts List 1 Standard Motor Parts starter solenoid SS-598 (bypass solenoid) 1 automotive on/off switch DC rated (your choice of style) 1 ATC fuse holder or fuse block (needed if not using fuse in PDC) 1 5amp fuse 13” 6AWG wire cable 5’ 18AWG wire red 5’ 18AWG wire blue 3’ 18AWG wire black 2 6AWG 5/16” copper wire ring terminal 3 22-18 AWG #10 ring terminal 2 #10X32X3/4” screw 2 #10X32 nut 4 #10 washer 4-5” of heat shrink (for the 8AWG cable terminals) 5’ ¼” plastic split wire loom 1 pack of 5-7” plastic ties 1 roll rosin core solder Putting It Together Disconnect both batteries; remove left (driver’s side) battery and battery tray. On the side of the battery tray fit the bypass solenoid and mark holes to be drilled; you may have to grind one side of the bypass solenoid mounting bracket to have it fit flush on the side of the battery tray. Drill 2 holes, 13/64”-7/32”, where marked on battery tray and mount the bypass solenoid with the #10 screws and nuts as shown below. Note: the bypass solenoid is grounded through its body so a black ground wire, with a #10 ring terminal at each end, is attached to one of the mounting screws and the other end grounded to the body. Reinstall the battery tray. Left battery tray with solenoid attached. Find a place in the cab where the switch type you chose will fit and be readily accessible. We used a rocker switch mounted in the kick panel below the steering column. For power you can tap into the fuse box on the left side of the dash. Find a terminal that has power only when the ignition key is in the on position. This is where you can add an ATC fuse holder with a 5amp fuse. Connect one end of the red wire to the fuse holder and the other end to the switch. Connect the blue wire to the other switch terminal and run it through the rubber grommet in the fire wall and with a #10 ring terminal connect it to the bypass solenoid terminal marked S; cover with ¼ “ split wire loom. Make up the 6AWG cable (an 8AWG cable will work also) with the 5/16” copper ring terminals and heat shrink. I solder my cable ends on using a small butane torch but you can use a large cable end crimper. Be sure to index the orientation of the cable ends to the cable before attaching them so the ring terminals fit squarely on to the battery and solenoid. The cables for the grid heat solenoid and battery power can now be attached to the bypass solenoid; the battery power cable to the firewall side of the bypass relay and the cables for the heater solenoid to the other side; reinstall the battery, connect all the terminals and reset the apps. Left battery tray installed with bypass solenoid. Notice position of the cables. Note: I have experienced a P1291” No temperature rise seen from intake heaters” when the temperature is below 35°F and the heaters are turned off right after starting the engine. I suggest leaving them on when first starting in cold weather for a minute or two. Note: It was first suggested to use an SS-581 starter solenoid, this solenoid does not have a protective diode in it and may cause a voltage spike that could damage sensitive electronic components. A SS-598 solenoid should be used in its place. This was installed with the help of JAG1 on his 2001 Ram 2500 diesel utility box work truck. Written by: J. Daniel Martin AKA IBMobile 7/6/2019
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ASD Relay Controlled Lift Pump If the ECM is no longer powering the electric lift pump and you’re using a manual switch wired directly to the fuel pump relay for control there is a danger of the fuel pump feeding a fire in the event of an accident even if the engine stalls. The automatic shutdown relay is an alternative that will turn the fuel lift pump off if the engine stops and still be able to prime the VP44 if needed. The automatic shutdown relay (ASD) in the power distribution center (PDC) is energized by the powertrain control module (PCM) by grounding pin 85 of the relay when the engine is started. This closes the contacts and battery voltage is supplied to terminal 87 of the relay. The terminal 87 of the ASD relay supplies power to the PCM through a 14 gauge dark green/orange (DG/OR) wire. When the engine stalls the PCM opens the grounding circuit within 3 seconds and the voltage is removed from terminal 87. The lift pump relay can be controlled by connecting a wire between terminal 87 of the ASD relay, or splicing into the DG/OR wire) and terminal 86 of the lift pump relay. The power draw of the lift pump relay solenoid is less than 1 amp so an 18 gauge wire can be used. There is an option to run the lift pump without the engine on, a bypass switch and second relay can be installed. The second relay is used to isolate the PCM and not power up systems unless the key is in the on position. Also if the bypass switch was wired directly to pin #86 of the fuel pump relay the amp draw from the PCM would blow the 3 amp fuse. If installed improperly the lift pump could stay on in the event of an accident. Installer/user assumes responsibility for proper installation and use. Written by: J. Daniel Martin, Martin’s Mobile Maintenance AKA: IBMOBILE 3/24/19
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Grid Heater Bypass Installing this bypass will allow you to manually control if and for how long you want to run the grid heaters when the ECM is commanding the grid heaters on. This will reduce the load on the alternator/charging system and in turn reduce the harmful AC voltage. This bypass will also keep the fault codes P0380 Intake Air Heater Relay #1 Control Circuit and P0382 Intake Air Heater Relay #2 Control Circuit from being set. Parts needed: 1. 2 micro relays, terminal 87 (5) normally open (NO) with suppressor 2. 2 5 watt / 20 ohm resistor 3. 1 single pole single throw switch (spst) 4. 2 male bullet and 2 female bullet connectors 5. 2 ring terminals 7. Rosin core solder 6. 10 female quick connect terminals 8. Heat shrink 9. ¼” protective wire cover 10. Electrical tape 11. Wire 18 AWG 4 different colors would be nice. 12. Optional 3 ATC fuse holders with 2 amp fuse 13. Something to mount the relays and resistors on. 14. 5 or more 6” zip ties Micro relay Putting it together To mount the relays, resistors and fuses I used part of a used relay mount from a Volvo that I found. It was cut and modified to fit the parts. I didn’t want to cut the wire harness at the fire wall to access the solenoid trigger wires, yellow/black and orange/black, that goes from the Engine Control Module (ECM) to the grid heater control solenoids. I ran two wires to each solenoid connecting to the trigger wires with the male bullet connectors. This sent the trigger signal back to the control relays at terminal 30 (3). Two more wires were run from terminal 87 (5) of the control relay back to terminal 86 of the grid heater solenoids and connected the wires with the female bullet connectors. You can cover the wires from the firewall to the solenoids with the ¼” protective wire cover. I installed the rely/resistor housing under the dash secured with a sheet metal screw and attached the ground wires to the dash sheet metal. For power I tapped into the fuse box on the left side of the dash and installed one of the ATC fuse holders and a 3 amp fuse. The control switch is installed into the left side of the steering column cover; I didn’t want it sticking out of the dash. With the switch in the on position the control relay contacts 30 and 87 close and the grid heaters will operate normally giving heated air to the cylinders. The switch in the off position the control relay contacts 30 and 87a are closed and the ECM signal goes to the resistors mimicking the grid heater solenoids. No check engine light and reduced electrical load on the charging system. The switch can be operated on or off before during or after engine start up. Another added benefit is if your batteries are weak the grid heaters can be turned off saving power for the starter. Written by: J. Daniel Martin, Martin’s Mobile Maintenance AKA IBMobile 12/21/2018
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The wire, also called "charge cable", that goes from the B+ terminal on the back of the alternator to the PDC, power distribution center, is remover completely from the wire harness. Don't cut it up. You can reuse it as stated above.
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B H A F BIG HONKING AIR FILTER This is a short list of BHAF that can be used on the Cummins 5.9L diesel. Some of the BHAF are the same size and will be listed together. L= length, OD= outside diameter, ID= inside connection diameter, BHAF: NAPA FIL 2790, WIX 42790, Fleetguard AH19037, Hastings Af1012, and Baldwin PA2820 L 11.88” OD 10.50” ID 4.0” Pre filter for above BHAF FILTERWEARS F105K BHAF: Napa FIL 6637, WIX 46637, Fleetguard AH1141, Hastings AF2329, Donaldson ECB085011, Baldwin PA2818 and Cummins 3912020 L 12.38” OD 8.50” ID 4.0” Pre filter for above BHAF FILTERWEARS K104k Donaldson B105006 L 10.50” OD 10.50” ID 4.0” Surface area 12.38"h x 8.5"d = 330.59 in² 10.50"h x 10.5"d = 346.35 in² ~ 04% larger than #1 11.88"h x 10.5"d = 391.87 in² ~ 18% larger than #1 ~ 13% larger than #2 Prepared by: J. Daniel Martin / Martin’s Mobile Maintenance AKA: ibmobile 3/10/2018 View full Cummins article
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B H A F BIG HONKING AIR FILTER This is a short list of BHAF that can be used on the Cummins 5.9L diesel. Some of the BHAF are the same size and will be listed together. L= length, OD= outside diameter, ID= inside connection diameter, BHAF: NAPA FIL 2790, WIX 42790, Fleetguard AH19037, Hastings Af1012, and Baldwin PA2820 L 11.88” OD 10.50” ID 4.0” Pre filter for above BHAF FILTERWEARS F105K BHAF: Napa FIL 6637, WIX 46637, Fleetguard AH1141, Hastings AF2329, Donaldson ECB085011, Baldwin PA2818 and Cummins 3912020 L 12.38” OD 8.50” ID 4.0” Pre filter for above BHAF FILTERWEARS K104k Donaldson B105006 L 10.50” OD 10.50” ID 4.0” Surface area 12.38"h x 8.5"d = 330.59 in² 10.50"h x 10.5"d = 346.35 in² ~ 04% larger than #1 11.88"h x 10.5"d = 391.87 in² ~ 18% larger than #1 ~ 13% larger than #2 Prepared by: J. Daniel Martin / Martin’s Mobile Maintenance AKA: ibmobile 3/10/2018
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Replacing Diodes and Brushes in a Denso Alternator Replacing Replacing Diodes and Brushes in a Denso Alternator Remove 1the 0mm nut at the B+ post, the three 8mm nuts and the 8mm head screw. You can use a small screwdriver and gently pry and lift the cove off. The diodes and brushes are now exposed. Remove the dust cover and four screws that hold in the brush pack assembly, lift assembly out. Remove the four Philip head screws that hold the diode/rectifier bridge in, lift diode/rectifier bridge out. Remove the one screw holding the brush pack to the brush pack assembly. Clean the slip rings with 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper. Assemble with new diode/rectifier bridge and brushes by reversing the disassembly steps. When installing the new brushes try holding them into the housing with a small pocket screwdriver or a feeler gauge while sliding over the slip rings. When installing the rear metal cover do not over tighter the 10mm nut for the B+ Insulator. It will crack and or brake if over tightened. Prepared by: J. Daniel Martin / Martin’s Mobile Maintenance AKA: IBMobile 11/18/2017 View full Cummins article
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Replacing Diodes and Brushes in a Denso Alternator Replacing Replacing Diodes and Brushes in a Denso Alternator Remove 1the 0mm nut at the B+ post, the three 8mm nuts and the 8mm head screw. You can use a small screwdriver and gently pry and lift the cove off. The diodes and brushes are now exposed. Remove the dust cover and four screws that hold in the brush pack assembly, lift assembly out. Remove the four Philip head screws that hold the diode/rectifier bridge in, lift diode/rectifier bridge out. Remove the one screw holding the brush pack to the brush pack assembly. Clean the slip rings with 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper. Assemble with new diode/rectifier bridge and brushes by reversing the disassembly steps. When installing the new brushes try holding them into the housing with a small pocket screwdriver or a feeler gauge while sliding over the slip rings. When installing the rear metal cover do not over tighter the 10mm nut for the B+ Insulator. It will crack and or brake if over tightened. Prepared by: J. Daniel Martin / Martin’s Mobile Maintenance AKA: IBMobile 11/18/2017
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Torque Converter Lockup Switch with Brake Pedal Release System What it will do This system can keep the torque converter locked in 3ed or 4th gear. With a modification to the valve body 2ed gear can be locked up. When driving normal freeway speed the torque converter can be locked up with the momentary switch and stays locked up. The transmission stays in direct drive even when the accelerator pedal is released, there is no freewheeling, RPM level is maintained and torque converter unlock is done with either pushing the momentary switch again or pressing the brake pedal. When going up long grades select 3ed gear, overdrive locked out, then lockup the torque converter with the momentary switch. I have found that by doing this I see very little rise in the transmission temperature with a decrease in exhaust temperature of 200o F. Unlocking the torque converter is done again by pressing the momentary switch or brake pedal. The trans mission will up shift from 3ed to 4th but will not down shift from 4th to 3ed with the torque converter locked. When go down a long or steep down grade the locked up torque converter will help in slowing but without the added benefit of an exhaust brake. Another switch* is incorporated in the system which will lock up the torque converter and stepping on the brake pedal will not disengage the lock up. How it works The system uses three switches, two relays and a light. The first is the momentary switch. This switch is used to signal the transistor in the switching relay to either power the coil and close the contacts allowing power to flow between pins 15 and 87 or stop the power to the coil and open the contacts. The brake light switch is three switches in one: brake lights, cruise control and anti-lock brake system. The anti-lock brake system grounds through this switch, white/pink wire, and is closed circuit until the brake pedal is depressed making it perfect for grounding terminal 85 of the switching relay. When the transistor loses its ground it turns off the power to the coil and the contacts between pins 15 and 87 open stopping current flow to the grounding relay. The 3ed switch* can either be floor mounted or dash mounted. This switch is used to energize the grounding relay and light. This keeps the torque converter locked when using the brakes. I use a floor mounted head light dimmer switch to turn it on and off. The switching relay is used to control the power to the grounding relay coil with the use of the momentary and brake light switch. This relay is used in 1981-1988 Volvo models 240 and 740 that had 5 speed manual transmissions with the overdrive 5th gear is a Laycock overdrive unit and provided power to the hydraulic solenoid. The grounding relay is used to open and close the circuit that grounds the torque convertor solenoid via the orange/black wire at PCM connector B11. Since this relay is used as only a grounding switch its power rating can be minimal. There is a light add to the system that is on anytime there is power supplied to the grounding relay and the torque converter is locked up. I used a green LED light so that the color isn’t annoying and power usage is low. Parts needed 1 overdrive relay for a Volvo manual 4 speed w/od (M46) IPD.com part# 102250 1 Bosch type/mini ISO relay terminal 87 normally open (NO) 1 12V LED light, Linrose Superbright LED Frys.com part# B2191L5 1 push button momentary switch, Phillmor Push Button green Frys.com part# 30-12634 E-Bay 1 headlight dimmer switch O’Rielly.com part # DS109 1 ½ watt 33ohm resistor NTE HW033 Frys.com part# 999026 1 fuse holder with 1-2 amp fuse 6 Scotch Lock connectors 2 #8 X 1½” self-taping sheet metal screws Solder Heat shrink tubing 1 central lock motor harness from a 1981-1993 Volvo model 240. The wire harness is found behind the center of dash. 1 overdrive relay harness from a 1982-1993 Volvo model 240 with either manual or automatic transmission. The wire harness is found above left front kick panel for manual trans or behind right center of dash for automatic trans. 1 shift lever from a 1998-2002 Dodge Ram 1500, 2500, 3500, Dakota or Durango. If you’re making the wire harness 11 solderless insulated female spade connectors .25” sized for wire gauge 3-4 solderless ring terminals sized for wire gauge and grounding screws. 18-20 AGW stranded (16 AGW will work if you can’t find smaller) in different colors. Try Home Depot or Lowes electrical department. Putting it all together Study the wiring diagram and have all of the parts in hand before starting the installation. Most of the wire length is from 6” to 2’. The wires for the light and the floor switch will be 4-5’ depending on where you put them. The wire from the grounding relay to the PCM will be about 8’. The power lead with fuse can be attached to any wire that is hot when the key is turned to the “on” position. The power draw should be between 1 and 2 amps; with the system having its own fuse, there should be no problems. Install the ½ watt 33 ohm resister between pin #87 of the grounding relay and ground by cutting the wire and soldering the resistor in place. I used the wire harnesses and relays from old Volvos that were in a wrecking yard. I modified the wire harness and added extra wire for the longer runs. An extra shift lever can be obtained at the wrecking yard for a few dollars also. Installing the momentary switch: refer to article written by Me78569 DIY- Lockup Switch install into Gear Selector Arm. This is a great how-to article on installing a momentary switch in the gear selector. If putting the switch in the gear selector arm is a bit difficult then try installing it on the steering column cove or some were on the dash board bezel that’s easily reached. You will need to remove the panel below the steering column, the dash bezel and the head light switch for the relay installation and wire routing. The left A post cover will need to be removed if the light is going to be installed there. Take your time and identify what wires are going where, think two or three times before cutting any wire. You should not have to cut any of the truck factory wires. The only wires that need to be cut are the ones you are adding. Find where you want to put the relays and LED light. I put my relays behind the bottom panel under the steering column and worked out from there. I have my LED light mounted next to my transmission temperature gauge. It’s at eye level and I just have to glance at it to see if the torque converter is locked or not. The light on JAG1’s truck was installed in the dashboard bezel between the headlights switch and instrument cluster. You will need to drill a hole through the plastic then slide the light housing into the hole and secure it with the supplied clip. Once the light is secured the wires can be connected and the bezel refitted. The 3ed switch* for energizing the grounding relay is mounted on the floor left and forward of the brake pedal in about the same spot the headlight dimmer switch was located back-in-the-day. I mounted this by putting the switch on top of the carpet and drilling through the floor pan with the self-taping sheet metal screws. A toggle or push button on/off switch could be used and installed on the dash bezel if the floor mounted switch is not to your liking. * Caution: coming to a full stop with the torque converter locked will stall the engine and could cause damage to the flex plate, input shaft or other driveline parts. Prepared by: J. Daniel Martin / Martin’s Mobile Maintenance AKA: IBMobile 11/12/2017
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INSTALLING PROTECTIVE LIFT PUMP RELAY The life pump is powered through the ECM via pin #15 and #35. Every time the lift pump is energized the power drawn through the ECM causes heat. After a few thousands cycles of start/stops this heating up and cooling down cause’s degradation in the solder joints and failure. Another possible cause of ECM failure is higher than normal amperage load by either a larger capacity lift pump or a failing pump. As a lift pump starts to go bad (wear internally) the AMP load is increased to overcome the resistance. This added power draw can cause the ECM circuit board to overheat and solder joints to open. The lift pump power routed through a relay protects the ECM from power spikes and excessive amperage loads. The power load on the ECM is now less than 200mA. The lift pump circuit is also protected by a dedicated fuse. MATERIALS NEEDED WIRE: 4 colors if possible, size determined by load and distance, see chart. Fuse holder with fuse: AMP rating determined by load. Relay: Bosch type/mini ISO, terminal 87 normally open (NO) with suppressor, AMP rating determined by load. 6 (or more) solderless insulated female spade connector, 6.35 mm (.25”) sized for wire gauge. 2 (or more) solderless insulated male spade connector, 6.35 mm (.25”) sized for wire gauge. 1 (or more) solderless insulated barrel connector, gauge size for fuse holder. 2 ring terminals, one sized for ground wire and the other sized for fuse holder connection. Dielectric grease, for terminal connections. Self-adhering Velcro, for attaching relay to PDC. ¼” protective wire cover or wrap cut to length. TOOLS Wire cutter Wire stripper Crimping tool for solderless connectors, a small pair of Vice-Grips will work. A 13mm and 10mm socket or wrench. Volt, ohm, amp (VOA) meter with 20amp scale. Optional, Soldering gun/iron with rosin core solder LIFT PUMP DRAW TEST Locate the ground wire for the lift pump and place the VOA meter leads in series anywhere between a grounding point and the negative terminal/wire of the lift pump. With the negative VOA lead connected to ground and the positive VOA lead on the negative side of the lift pump turn the meter select to the 20 amp DC scale, turn the ignition key to the on position and the lift pump will run for 5 seconds. Read the amp draw and make note of it. The fuse, relay and wire size will be based on it. In this example we will use a hypothetical draw of 8.6 amps. CHOOSING FUSE SIZE Finding the correct fuse size is simply multiplying the load in amps times 135% (1.35). In this example 8.6 amps multiplied by 1.35 equals 11.61 amps. The next sized fuse larger than 11.61 amps is 15 so for this example a 15 amp fuse will be used. WIRE SIZE Wire size is based on fuse size and length of wire. The wire has to be able to carry a larger load and not burn up before the fuse does. If the wire gauge is too small for a given distance then the resistance in the wire will cause a drop in voltage. This reduced voltage reaching the lift pump will cause it to run slower and produce less pressure. The voltage not reaching the lift pump is given off as heat. Using the wire gauge chart an 18 AWG is the minimum size used for this example. WHAT RELAY TO USE When an electric motor starts there can be a sharp volt/amp load placed momentarily on the relay contacts so the relay should be rated 2-3 time the motors normal amperage. The motor in this example runs at 8.61 amps times’ 3 equals 25.8 amps so the next size relay that can be used is one rated at 30 amps. The relay of choice is the mini ISO otherwise known as the Bosch type in either 4 or 5 terminal, normally open (NO). Relay terminal 30 is switched power or common in, 87 is switched power out and normally open circuit (NO) when no power is applied to the relay coil. Terminal 86 is the positive or triggering terminal and 85 is the grounding terminal for the relay coil, check relay wire diagram for specific applications. Terminal 87a is normally closed (NC) when no power is applied to the relay coil. If you find a relay marked 20/30 this means terminal 87a is rated for 20 amps and terminal is rated for 30 amps. Using a relay with a built in voltage suppressor is a must. The relay will have a resistor or diode in parallel with the relay coil. This suppressor reduces the back flowing voltage spikes to the ECM when the power to the relay is shut off and the magnetic field around the coil collapses. Most relays denote the use of a suppressor with a symbol of a resistor or diode in the wiring diagram printed or etched into the relay cover. Pay extra attention to the +,- of pins #85 and 86 when installing a relay with a suppressing diode, if not installed properly the relay can be damaged. Napa relay part #ECH AR272 is ratted for 30 amps and has a resistor suppressor. INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS OPTION A First disconnect the batteries. Now determine where to place the relay. The relay can be placed on the PDC with Velcro, my Edge EZ has been mounted to the PDC this way for over 12 years. This will keep the electric components in one area, a shorter wire run for relay terminal 30 and no holes in the metal where rust can start. Do not put a screw through the PDC housing; there is the risk of wire or component damage. The source of the constant 12volt power can be either the positive terminal of the left battery or for a neater installation use the large cable stud in the PDC. Install one end of the fuse holder using an appropriate sized ring terminal to the 12 volt terminal and with an insulated female spade connector attach the other end to relay terminal 30. If the wire for the fuse holder is to short connect extra length with either an insulated barrel connector or solder them together and insulate with heat shrink tubing. Find the wire harness used for the lift pump, pulling back the protective wire wrap there will be a yellow wire with white tracer (yl/wt) and a factory connector. This is the factory lift pump power supply and will be used as the ‘trigger’ to open and close the relay contacts. The power source can be verified by attaching a test light or volt meter to it and turning the ignition key to the on position, there will be 12 volts for 5 seconds. The yl/wt wire can be cut 2½”-3”from the factory connector. NOTE this is another place where an amp lode test could be performed. Connect the new correct size wire with either male/female insulated spade connectors, insulated barrel connector or solder/heat shrink to the end coming from the ECM. Attach the other end of the new wire to relay terminal 86 with an insulated female spade connector. Consult relay diagram if diode protected. Connect another new wire to relay terminal 87 with an insulated female spade connector and the other end of the wire to either the factory connector where the yl/wt wire was cut or to the lift pump itself. The picture above shows new insulated spade connectors, the wire on the left is from the ECM to terminal 86 and the wire on the right is from terminal 87 to the lift pump. The relay grounding wire is attached to relay terminal 85 with an insulated female spade connector and the other end using a ring connector to the body. The bolt that holds the PDC to the inner fender is a good spot. Reconnect batteries and test. When routing wires take care that they are kept away from moving parts, ie: steering column, have enough length so as not to pull loose and are covered with protective wire cover or wrap. Use dielectric grease on connections to keep corrosion to a minimum or solder and seal with heat shrink tube. INSTALLATION ISTRUCTION OPTION B The relay and fuse can be installed in the PDC giving it the appearance of an OEM part. Some of the connectors used in the PDC are not available in the general market but can be found in an auto/truck salvage yard. I went to a ‘pick your part’ type salvage yard and found a 1999 Ram 1500 with V8. The PDC is basically the same as my 2000 diesel. You can either buy the whole PDC or remove the terminals with wires attached that will be needed. Leave as much wire as possible; the excess can be trimmed later. Disconnect connect the battery, remove the PDC cover and locate where a spare fuse and relay can be added. Remove the two sheet metal screws (10mm socket) and lift the PDC up. The PDC housing can now be opened by gently lifting the plastic clips on the sides and prying it apart. Now the bottom of the top half is exposed. Drill a hole large enough for three wires to pass through in the lower half of the case. This is where the wires for relay terminals 85, 86 and 87 will exit the PDC. The additional wire length is added by soldering and heat shrink tubing or insulated barrel connector to the used OEM connectors. These connections will be protected in the lower half of the PDC. Pass the wires through the hole and place the salvaged connectors into their appropriate relay slots. The other end of the wires can now be trimmed to length and connected as described in the installation instructions option a above. Place the 2 halves of the PDC together and remount the PDC to the inner fender while grounding the relay terminal 85 wire with one of the screws, reconnect battery and test. My truck lift fuel pump amp draw is 6.5 amps so at 135% protection needed is 8.77 amps, next standard size fuse is 10 amps. Relay size is 3 x 6.5 amps = 19.5 amps so a 20amp rated relay is needed. I used a micro relay which is half the size of a mini relay because it can handle 20 amps and there were 4 empty positions I could put it in verses 1 position for a mini relay in the PDC. I put the relay in a spot marked for an O₂ heater. My truck has a Fuel Boss mechanical fuel pump and I have this electric pump as a backup so I run the engine with the 10amp fuse in the glove box. With a fuel pump relay the fuel system can be primed without the ignition key being turned to the on position by jumping relay terminal 30 to 87. As long as the two terminals are connected the fuel pump will run. Written by: J. Daniel Martin, Martin’s Mobile Maintenance AKA: IBMobile 3/2/2017 View full Cummins article
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INSTALLING PROTECTIVE LIFT PUMP RELAY The life pump is powered through the ECM via pin #15 and #35. Every time the lift pump is energized the power drawn through the ECM causes heat. After a few thousands cycles of start/stops this heating up and cooling down cause’s degradation in the solder joints and failure. Another possible cause of ECM failure is higher than normal amperage load by either a larger capacity lift pump or a failing pump. As a lift pump starts to go bad (wear internally) the AMP load is increased to overcome the resistance. This added power draw can cause the ECM circuit board to overheat and solder joints to open. The lift pump power routed through a relay protects the ECM from power spikes and excessive amperage loads. The power load on the ECM is now less than 200mA. The lift pump circuit is also protected by a dedicated fuse. MATERIALS NEEDED WIRE: 4 colors if possible, size determined by load and distance, see chart. Fuse holder with fuse: AMP rating determined by load. Relay: Bosch type/mini ISO, terminal 87 normally open (NO) with suppressor, AMP rating determined by load. 6 (or more) solderless insulated female spade connector, 6.35 mm (.25”) sized for wire gauge. 2 (or more) solderless insulated male spade connector, 6.35 mm (.25”) sized for wire gauge. 1 (or more) solderless insulated barrel connector, gauge size for fuse holder. 2 ring terminals, one sized for ground wire and the other sized for fuse holder connection. Dielectric grease, for terminal connections. Self-adhering Velcro, for attaching relay to PDC. ¼” protective wire cover or wrap cut to length. TOOLS Wire cutter Wire stripper Crimping tool for solderless connectors, a small pair of Vice-Grips will work. A 13mm and 10mm socket or wrench. Volt, ohm, amp (VOA) meter with 20amp scale. Optional, Soldering gun/iron with rosin core solder LIFT PUMP DRAW TEST Locate the ground wire for the lift pump and place the VOA meter leads in series anywhere between a grounding point and the negative terminal/wire of the lift pump. With the negative VOA lead connected to ground and the positive VOA lead on the negative side of the lift pump turn the meter select to the 20 amp DC scale, turn the ignition key to the on position and the lift pump will run for 5 seconds. Read the amp draw and make note of it. The fuse, relay and wire size will be based on it. In this example we will use a hypothetical draw of 8.6 amps. CHOOSING FUSE SIZE Finding the correct fuse size is simply multiplying the load in amps times 135% (1.35). In this example 8.6 amps multiplied by 1.35 equals 11.61 amps. The next sized fuse larger than 11.61 amps is 15 so for this example a 15 amp fuse will be used. WIRE SIZE Wire size is based on fuse size and length of wire. The wire has to be able to carry a larger load and not burn up before the fuse does. If the wire gauge is too small for a given distance then the resistance in the wire will cause a drop in voltage. This reduced voltage reaching the lift pump will cause it to run slower and produce less pressure. The voltage not reaching the lift pump is given off as heat. Using the wire gauge chart an 18 AWG is the minimum size used for this example. WHAT RELAY TO USE When an electric motor starts there can be a sharp volt/amp load placed momentarily on the relay contacts so the relay should be rated 2-3 time the motors normal amperage. The motor in this example runs at 8.61 amps times’ 3 equals 25.8 amps so the next size relay that can be used is one rated at 30 amps. The relay of choice is the mini ISO otherwise known as the Bosch type in either 4 or 5 terminal, normally open (NO). Relay terminal 30 is switched power or common in, 87 is switched power out and normally open circuit (NO) when no power is applied to the relay coil. Terminal 86 is the positive or triggering terminal and 85 is the grounding terminal for the relay coil, check relay wire diagram for specific applications. Terminal 87a is normally closed (NC) when no power is applied to the relay coil. If you find a relay marked 20/30 this means terminal 87a is rated for 20 amps and terminal is rated for 30 amps. Using a relay with a built in voltage suppressor is a must. The relay will have a resistor or diode in parallel with the relay coil. This suppressor reduces the back flowing voltage spikes to the ECM when the power to the relay is shut off and the magnetic field around the coil collapses. Most relays denote the use of a suppressor with a symbol of a resistor or diode in the wiring diagram printed or etched into the relay cover. Pay extra attention to the +,- of pins #85 and 86 when installing a relay with a suppressing diode, if not installed properly the relay can be damaged. Napa relay part #ECH AR272 is ratted for 30 amps and has a resistor suppressor. INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS OPTION A First disconnect the batteries. Now determine where to place the relay. The relay can be placed on the PDC with Velcro, my Edge EZ has been mounted to the PDC this way for over 12 years. This will keep the electric components in one area, a shorter wire run for relay terminal 30 and no holes in the metal where rust can start. Do not put a screw through the PDC housing; there is the risk of wire or component damage. The source of the constant 12volt power can be either the positive terminal of the left battery or for a neater installation use the large cable stud in the PDC. Install one end of the fuse holder using an appropriate sized ring terminal to the 12 volt terminal and with an insulated female spade connector attach the other end to relay terminal 30. If the wire for the fuse holder is to short connect extra length with either an insulated barrel connector or solder them together and insulate with heat shrink tubing. Find the wire harness used for the lift pump, pulling back the protective wire wrap there will be a yellow wire with white tracer (yl/wt) and a factory connector. This is the factory lift pump power supply and will be used as the ‘trigger’ to open and close the relay contacts. The power source can be verified by attaching a test light or volt meter to it and turning the ignition key to the on position, there will be 12 volts for 5 seconds. The yl/wt wire can be cut 2½”-3”from the factory connector. NOTE this is another place where an amp lode test could be performed. Connect the new correct size wire with either male/female insulated spade connectors, insulated barrel connector or solder/heat shrink to the end coming from the ECM. Attach the other end of the new wire to relay terminal 86 with an insulated female spade connector. Consult relay diagram if diode protected. Connect another new wire to relay terminal 87 with an insulated female spade connector and the other end of the wire to either the factory connector where the yl/wt wire was cut or to the lift pump itself. The picture above shows new insulated spade connectors, the wire on the left is from the ECM to terminal 86 and the wire on the right is from terminal 87 to the lift pump. The relay grounding wire is attached to relay terminal 85 with an insulated female spade connector and the other end using a ring connector to the body. The bolt that holds the PDC to the inner fender is a good spot. Reconnect batteries and test. When routing wires take care that they are kept away from moving parts, ie: steering column, have enough length so as not to pull loose and are covered with protective wire cover or wrap. Use dielectric grease on connections to keep corrosion to a minimum or solder and seal with heat shrink tube. INSTALLATION ISTRUCTION OPTION B The relay and fuse can be installed in the PDC giving it the appearance of an OEM part. Some of the connectors used in the PDC are not available in the general market but can be found in an auto/truck salvage yard. I went to a ‘pick your part’ type salvage yard and found a 1999 Ram 1500 with V8. The PDC is basically the same as my 2000 diesel. You can either buy the whole PDC or remove the terminals with wires attached that will be needed. Leave as much wire as possible; the excess can be trimmed later. Disconnect connect the battery, remove the PDC cover and locate where a spare fuse and relay can be added. Remove the two sheet metal screws (10mm socket) and lift the PDC up. The PDC housing can now be opened by gently lifting the plastic clips on the sides and prying it apart. Now the bottom of the top half is exposed. Drill a hole large enough for three wires to pass through in the lower half of the case. This is where the wires for relay terminals 85, 86 and 87 will exit the PDC. The additional wire length is added by soldering and heat shrink tubing or insulated barrel connector to the used OEM connectors. These connections will be protected in the lower half of the PDC. Pass the wires through the hole and place the salvaged connectors into their appropriate relay slots. The other end of the wires can now be trimmed to length and connected as described in the installation instructions option a above. Place the 2 halves of the PDC together and remount the PDC to the inner fender while grounding the relay terminal 85 wire with one of the screws, reconnect battery and test. My truck lift fuel pump amp draw is 6.5 amps so at 135% protection needed is 8.77 amps, next standard size fuse is 10 amps. Relay size is 3 x 6.5 amps = 19.5 amps so a 20amp rated relay is needed. I used a micro relay which is half the size of a mini relay because it can handle 20 amps and there were 4 empty positions I could put it in verses 1 position for a mini relay in the PDC. I put the relay in a spot marked for an O₂ heater. My truck has a Fuel Boss mechanical fuel pump and I have this electric pump as a backup so I run the engine with the 10amp fuse in the glove box. With a fuel pump relay the fuel system can be primed without the ignition key being turned to the on position by jumping relay terminal 30 to 87. As long as the two terminals are connected the fuel pump will run. Written by: J. Daniel Martin, Martin’s Mobile Maintenance AKA: IBMobile 3/2/2017
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Adding inline power steering filter with system flush Parts One (1) inline transmission filter with ⅜” fittings Two (2) hose clamps (size #8, ⁷⁄₁₆-1” Three (3) qt. 2002 and older: Mopar MS 5931 or equivalent 2003 and newer: Mopar ATF+4 type 9602 or equivalent Tools Utility knife ¼” nut driver 3’ ⅜” hose 3” ⅜ tubing One Drain pan Long funnel I used a Magnefine inline transmission / power steering filter. You can fine these filters at Amazon and eBay but the manufacture has introduced a new style of filter. https://magnefinefilters.com/ Jack the front of the truck up and support with jack stands and block the rear wheels, this will unload the tires for EZ turning. Find the return line that goes from the steering box to the rear of the power steering pump. It makes a large ark and the top of the ark is below and to the right of the battery. This is where you will cut the hose. After the hose is cut insert the 3” tube into one end of the 3’ hose and the other end of the 3” tube into the cut return hose that is coming off the steering box. Now rout the 3’ hose down past the frame and into a container that will hold 1 gallon or more of fluid. Do not worry about the other cut end of the hose no fluid will come from there. Take the cap off the power steering pump and insert the funnel. Start the engine with your foot on the brake and turn the steering wheel. Turn engine off after 10 seconds and refill the power steering reservoir and repeat. Repeat for at least 1qt or until the fluid is clean. I had a helper in the cab turning the steering wheel while I poured the fluid. I used 2qt real fast doing it this way. After flushing remove the 3’ hose with the tubing. Lube the filter fittings, I use petroleum jelly. Slid the hose clamps onto the hoses, making note of flow arrow on filter, it must be pointed toward the pump, press the filter into the hoses using a twisting motion until seated. Slide the clamps in place and tighten. Fill pump reservoir, start, stop, and recheck fluid level. There will be air entrained with the fluid and it will make the steering wheel and brake pedal jerky, this will subside as the air leaves the fluid. With the wheels still off the ground and the engine running turn the steering wheel full lock to lock 10 times and recheck. This will help get the air out faster. It may take a day or two to get all the air out. I routed the filter/hose on top of the wire harness when done. .............................................................................................. Update...7/25/2025 It has been 8years 9months and 44,888 miles since I installed the Magnefine filter and flushed the power steering system, so it was time to flush the power steering fluid and replace the filter again. I used an oil syringe fluid evacuator pump this time to remove and refill the fluid at the power steering pump. The picture below shows the first time the fluid was removed from the system It took 5 remove, refill, and run engine for 4secounds to get the fluid to this clear color, about 2qts. Here is the filter cut open. It looks like the filter could last 60,000+ miles before changing. There was just a fine film on the magnet. Prepared by: J. Daniel Martin / Martin's Mobile Maintenance AKA: ibmobile 9/6/2016 Edit: 3/28/2019
