IBMobile

Here in the US every state has their own inspection policy for which and how often vehicles are tested as well as the minimum passing standards and testing protocols. Here in California emission testing interval is controlled by the postal zip code the vehicle is registered in. If the zip code is in an urban area then emission testing is required every 2 years; if in a rural area then only when vehicle is sold. There is no vehicle safety inspection required here in CA but other states due. So, here in CA we can drive smog free cars with bald tires and bad ball joints.

Sadly, I failed to take pictures of the work in progress. I was glad to have JAG there for his carpentry skills. He replaced water damaged wood in the front two feet of the roof and added plywood fillers when the sky light over the tub and the antenna were removed. When the OSB was removed you could see the poor quality of workmanship at the factory level. Staples that hold down the OSB missed the roof/ceiling rafters, insulation missing, and saw dust everywhere. The most work after the roof repair was prep, Removing the staples and cleaning the old butyl tape off the roof trim molding and four side of the trailer. After the new roof material was laid down two layers of new butyl tape installed; one between the siding and roofing material and the other layer between the roofing material and molding, lastly a bead of sealant between the siding and material. The installation of the AC unit, new roof vents, and adding a bead of sealant around all the vents and termination bars at the both end of the trailer. All this work took over a week since I don't start working till 9 AM and being in Oregon it rained a lot and work would have to stop for the day when it did. I would cover the trailer with two large tarps at the end of the day for water protection and I was living in it while work was going on.

Looks like you broke your vow not to tell me. By the way, those two pebbles you left are still there.

Would a large pair of ratcheting snap ring pliers work? That's what I use when taking the large snap ring off Mitsubishi turbos.

Here is before body work and paint with the damage to the right rear quarter panel This picture shows the bad clear coat and paint on the hood and roof. I took the grill, badges, moldings, trim, weather striping, seals, antenna, mirrors, running boards, 5th wheel mounting, bed liner, tail lights, all door panels, door and tail gate handles off before the body shop took it in. The body shop took the hood and bed off the truck, repaired every dent, ding, and scratch. Before painting they removed the windshield, rear window, and rear side windows, Then painted separately the cab and fenders, the hood, the bed and tailgate. When they finished a new windshield was installed. When I got it home I installed a new LMC dash cover, grill and stereo amp. All the black trim was treated with Cerakote ceramic coating and the running boards, antenna, and wiper arms were painted with SEM 39143 trim black. This is cover three months later

SRS will not. It is most likely a fault in ECM/PCM but this is just a line of thought since there are no other codes coming up for the ECM or the PCM and there is a problem with the ABS module info.

Mopar's Note's: This error code cannot exist by itself and will have other error codes present in the ECM and/or PCM you'll most likely require an OBDII scan tool to get the codes. P1693 is nothing more than a flag that is pointing to the other module stating there are errors. If the PCM has the P1693 code this only means that the error codes are on the ECM. Visa-Vera as well. If the ECM reports the P1693 that means the error codes exist on the PCM. If both report the P1693 code basically both module pointing the finger at each other stating there are errors on both modules. Typically the key trick is the only place this code will show up. I've also seen a few "cheap OBDII code readers" also report this code but doesn't state which module reported. Always best to use a quality OBDII code reader. Edited May 2, 2018 by Mopar1973Man Just a thought, could be the PCM is not seeing the ABS module. The PCM gets the vehicle speed signal, white/orange wire, from the ABS module but if the code comes on just starting the engine and not moving then no speed signal is generated and the ABS may not be the problem.

CLIMATE CHANGE FOLLOW THE MONEY MONEY=POWER POWER=MONEY THERE WILL BE YOUR ANSWER

No. I went with the 150 amp fuse while others went with a good quality 150 amp breaker. A cheap breaker trips all the time. Either way it's protection if the alternator shorts to ground.

Sorry to hear about the break up. Do you have an extra exhaust brake?

I use butyl tape (windshield sealing tape) in the socket to hold the bolt or nut when taking them off or on. What was the temp?

If you don't have tweeters in the A-post cover then you have a standard sound system with out amps in the doors and new speakers will plug in without doing rewiring in the doors. Making the T harness for the radio to amp to factory harness wasn't to hard but took some time and thought to get all the wire connections sorted out, soldered, and covered in heat shrink. Rear view of amp under driver's seat. the nine wire speed cable (on the right) is connected to the amp speaker out put and the switched power terminal. This is the input signal from the factory radio head. A nine wire speed cable is used for this also.

I have the HI LINE factory sound system and that's where they put the amps; it's a poor design. If an amp or front speaker goes bad you have to replace them both as a unit.

I just did a little up grade to my audio system keeping the stock radio head. The front door speakers are kicker CS series 6X9 and the rear door speakers are Kicker CSC5 5.25". Because the system amps were built into the bad OME front door speakers I added an Infinity Primus 6004a four channel amp. The amp is wired to the radio head with a T harness I made with a 9 wire speed cable and Metra 70-1817 and 71-1871 connectors so the factory wiring was not cut.

Our store has them but they are temporally out of stock. @Mopar1972Man will know when there is more to be had.

Good to have you here and wanting to join in the fun. One thing about this forum, you can add your and nobody bites. That's really beautiful country. I've flown into Hartford a few times and played at the Mohegan and Foxwood.

When the brake peddle is depressed pin #C1/9 of the antilock brake controller, pin #24 of the ECM, and pin #C3/24 of the PCM all ground through the brake light switch to grounds G200 at the left cowl, G201 at instrument panel right center support, and G100 left fender. This grounding signal or lack of may have an effect on the lock unlock problem.

You can delete some of the old ones that aren't relevant or you don't need any more. When posting a picture I check the file size and edit it to a smaller size: like a picture file of 1.2Mb down to 300kb.

Get a large size tube of dielectric grease and coat all the connections before plugging them back together. This will help keep the high ohm resistance gremlins at bay. I did my ground connections like this then slid the prepositioned heat shrink cover over it for insulation.

First remove the brake calipers, get a caliper repair/seal kit, take the caliper pistons out, clean the pistons and bores and reseal. While the caliper are off the truck check all the sliding parts for wear rust and binding; clean or replace pins bolts and pin boots *** needed. All these parts are inexpensive and can be obtained through Rock Auto. Are you bedding in your new brake pads? Swap the front tires left to right, fight to left and see if the steering wheel goes to the right.

Is the truck a 4x4 or not; this will help to know this. First, jack up the front of the truck and check for play in the wheel bearings and the ball joints. Lose ball joints or wheel bearings can cause choppy tire wear along with the shacking and noises you are hearing in the front. While you're there check the rest of the suspension: A-arm bushings, tie rods, ect. The leveling kit can cause problems and premature failure of front suspension components. This video will help with what to look for. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H805kD6MF58 .As for the noise in the bellhousing, the transmission is going to have to come out and inspection done on the flywheel/clutch assembly. I've seen two cars over the years with a noise like that; one was a cracked flex plate and the other was a bolt that backed out of the flywheel and was just touching the bellhousing in on spot making the ticking noise.

Here is how to fix the PCM grounds https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/51_engine/electrical/pcm-ground-splice-repair-r675/

You're welcome to join JAG1, me and the rest of the gang in May. PM me and I can fill you in on the details.

These two video's explain it better than I could wright it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qPpHRuddhh4 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DfLyh43iihM Oil soaked wires, NO. Oil soaked starter, may be, but the oil would have to get into the solenoid and insulate the contacts since you are not hearing a click in the solenoid when trying to energies the starter. The solenoid can be taken apart and the contacts cleaned or replaced if needed. NO, The ECM is sealed so there can be no intrusion of foreign material. Your problem is in the starting circuit. Good advice. All that leaking oil is not doing the rubber components any good and will cause them to detreat rapidly.

Sounds like you have a bad battery clamp/cable at the driver's side battery. A bad starter motor will not cause a lose of electrical power in the cabin ( lights, power windows, radio, ect.) but a bad battery clamp/cable would. Don't let them just throw parts at it like the starter motor. They are going to have to do diagnostics like voltage drop test an such to pin point the problem then do the repair work. Have them document the values of what they find. Good luck!