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What are "LR parts"?

All of these new cars are a POS to work on. Every thing crammed into a small engine compartment where you have to take four things off to get to the problem or like the Ford trucks where you have to take the cab off of the chassis to work on the engine. Engine parts made of plastic or carbon fiber that last until the warranty is up. They should stake the engineers to an ant hill with honey on their

Do it, just drill the hole or punch it through the firewall (bulkhead). In the late 70's and early 80's The camshaft lobs and rocker arms were going flat in the Volvo B27 V-6 engine due to lack of oiling between them. The easiest way to replace the cam shaft and rocker arms was to slid the shaft the rock arms road on to the firewall, mark where the shaft made contact, drill a hole there. and finish by sliding the shaft through the hole into the passenger compartment. Next was to slide the cam shaft to the firewall and drill another bigger hole for for it to slide through then I'd go to the other side of the engine and do the same thing there.

It will have a good coat in 4-6hr and cured in 24-48hr recoat in 24hr and no, you won't peel it off.

I used Eterna-Bond on my roof before it was replaced. After a couple of years the vinyl top of the tape cracked then pealed leaving the thick adhesive exposed.

You can go to https://www.wunderground.com/wundermap. Find a weather reporting station near where you're going, Left click on it; this will open a box with the current conditions in it, At the bottom of this box left click on the "visit local weather page for (local area), find history and left click. Here you can enter past dates to see what that day's temps were, what the average temps are, and what the past high and low temps were, In southern NV during the first part of October temps can reach 100°F during the day and average night temp of 76°F.

Sounds like fun. May be you can join @JAG1 and me in October. We're camp with 4-6 other people about an hour south of Carson City, NV and just west of Bridgeport, CA. We're there the first or second week in October for about 7-8 days.

Have one fabricated for the left side with an added vertical brace coming off the left side bumper mount for added support. Another idea is a front mount hitch where you could put a full cargo rack. True story: A few years ago my wife and I were touring Yellowstone National Park. We were heading south from the Mammoth area on US 89 which happened to be under road improvement at the time and a hard packed mess. Well I'm going slow and navigating all the bumps and holes the road crew could put in front of me when a truck pulling a 5th wheel, with a cargo rack in back, passes me on the right and goes bouncing by. About a mile down the road there's the truck and 5th wheel on the side of the road with the cargo rack sitting at a 45° angle in the dirt. So, get a strong quality built rack, don't over load it, and go slow over rough roads.

I just used Flex Seal on the RV's awning to replace the vinyl that was sun damaged and pealing. I cut out the bad vinyl out, cleaned the area, masked off the area with painters tape, applied two coats of sealant 24 hours apart. The first coat was applied with a brush for thick coverage with the next coat rolled on. I may have to recoat it after 4-5 years. Check "YouTube" for ideas. There is one guy who used it on the roof of what looks like a tent trailer; it looks good after a year. Another guy used it around his AC unit and it leaked; I think he should have replaced the AC seal. As for replacing the roof, Jag1 and I replaced the EPDM roof on my 25 foot 5er last year. The cost was around $1,000 for all the material, new parts, and coffee.

Batteries tested good, all right. Next, even though you jumped the cables it would be good automotive practice to do a voltage drop test on them. If the cables pass then remove the starter and bench test it. In the video he says a drop of up to .5 volts on the positive cable is acceptable but 3% of 12 volts, 0.36v, is better.

I've been soldering connections for the past 50 years with rosin core; haven't had a problem yet. I soldered radiators and fuel tanks, when they were still metal, with acid core.

No problem, check these out. https://learnmetrics.com/best-rv-air-conditioners/ https://www.rvweb.net/best-rv-air-conditioners-reviewed/

Could you install a small window AC like this one in your camper. It would be more than enough to cool the camper. and small generator can handle it. https://www.lowes.com/pd/LG-Electronics-5000-BTU-Mechanical-Air-Conditioner/5001460795?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-app-_-google-_-pla-_--_-soscooling-_-5001460795-_-0&placeholder=null&ds_rl=1286981&ds_rl=1286890&gclid=Cj0KCQjw2NyFBhDoARIsAMtHtZ7SyaA3d-a4TETVdZVgWDto2eX97g-rEqamnMSWx1IIzMRwCIDTGoQaAvBLEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds 5,000 BTU, 115V, 4.1A, 440W, for $159.

Sounds like a nice place to live.

Life must be pretty dull in your neighborhood if a Fed Ex truck driving through causes "Great excitement".

@Haggarand @wil440 have more knowledge about it then me and will be along to help but here are a couple of links that might help in the meantime. https://my.cardone.com/techdocs/PT 52-0001.pdf https://www.underhoodservice.com/operation-diagnosis-and-repair-of-hydro-boost-power-assist-systems/

Do a voltage drop test on the cables before replacing them. This will tell you if it is bad cables or starter problem.

3-4 shift and torque convertor lock up are controlled by the PCM. Check the throttle cable valve adjustment. It could cause all those problems.

So you have new batteries? Check the wire grounds under the driver's side battery. You might have to pull the battery and battery tray to get to them.

When you have the pan off disconnect all the solenoids and transducer, turn key on. If the fuse blows before any component is plugged in then there is a wire shorted to ground. Now plug the old components back in one at a time and be sure their bodies are grounded. When the fuse blows you'll know which component is bad. Power to pin 30 of the transmission control relay comes from fuse I (20 amp) in the PDC.

This might explain it. https://mopar1973man.com/topic/14708-iquad-boost-readings-lower-than-boost-gauge/ https://mopar1973man.com/topic/16186-quadzilla-v2-reading-inconsistent-boost-under-load-on-1999-24v/

Two week ago I was towing my 5er with the boat behind, it about 16k LB. Got caught in stop and go traffic for 3 hours north bound I-15 going up the Cajon pass. Tranny temp, post converter, climbed to 250°F and stayed there. Wish I had and extra trans cooler then.

Here are a couple of members that have installed a Derale cooler https://mopar1973man.com/topic/14095-derale-aux-trans-cooler/ https://mopar1973man.com/topic/17573-derale-trans-cooler-install-and-test/

Yes

I started loosing fuel pressure at idle over a couple of years 17PSI and now down to 8 PSI. 18-19 PSI at 2000 RPM and drops to 16 PSI under load. I checked the "fuel pressure regulator" saw no problem; I've blown out the fuel lines with compressed air then tried clamping off the fuel return lines with no increase in pressure.