IBMobile

Not much out there. https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/d/clearlake-2000-dodge-ram-2500-cummins/7343460943.html https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/d/gresham-2001-dodge-x4-diesel/7334205850.html https://missoula.craigslist.org/cto/d/missoula-99-dodge-ram-valve/7337216532.html https://kalispell.craigslist.org/cto/d/kalispell-1995-dodge-ram-3500-slt/7338628866.html https://westslope.craigslist.org/cto/d/pagosa-springs-1999-dodge-ram-59-manual/7337284822.html

I'd check: power from the left battery to the PDC in the PDC check fuse #2 (30 amp) and #10 (50 amp) power in (pink/black and red wires) and out of the ignition switch connector C134 under left side of dash.

I'd have to say no, I don't think so. I shipped my transmission to him for a rebuild from San Marcos, CA

12 gallons is 3 oil changes so hold on to that oil. It has a shelf life of 5 years before the additive package goes bad and the price of oil is only going to go up. Glade for you that it got sorted out. If anything, you got intimate with your truck, did some major work along with rust prevention and found 5 out of 6 mechanics can't diagnose an oil leak.

Ship the valve body to @Dynamictrasnsmissions. (503) 880-5451

A torque wrench is needed when working on aluminum alloy engines. Over tightening will pull the threads out. There are 2 ways to find a vacuum leak at the intake manifold/gasket. With the engine running spray the intake manifold/gasket with carb cleaner. When the carb cleaner is sprayed on to the damaged area it is sucked in and will cause the engine to stumble. With the engine running using a 5/16-3/8 hose about 3' place one end of the hose in your ear and run the other end over the manifold. You will her a sucking sound when the hose goes over a damaged area. Using a hose like this can also be used to find a bad bearing in a water pump, alternator, etc.

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/High-Quality-Inline-S-MBC-Manual-Boost-Controller-For-Impeza-WRX-STI-/293376084464?hash=item444e93c9f0

I'll plan a five week/seven thousand mile trip pulling the fifth wheel at 60-65 MPH and love every minute. The truck is not a daily driver and just turned 123K. I need the microwave working so I can heat up the apple pie to go with ice cream.

Misfire #6 cylinder. Does it feel like it's running on 5 cylinders? Bad wire/connector to #6 coil over, vacuum leak at intake manifold or #6 runner, low compression at #6 cylinder. A vacuum leak could set another code of running to rich. Next time instead of replacing parts switch the part, like the coil over (COP), with the cylinder next to it then see if the problem moves to it.

25 PSI is to low. MY truck has a stock HX35 with a cheap manual boost controller and it produces 30 PSI.

A bunch of YOU TUBE videos about RV generators https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=rv+generators+for+travel+trailers I have a cheap ($200 at Big Lots) 2300 watt generator in the front of my 5er. I just don't turn the AC on when using the microwave. Here's a list, from Lilac Resort, of power usage for equipment in RVs. RV Converter (charging)1-8 Amps Lights (per bulb)0.5 -1.5 Amps Water Heater (6-gallon, heating)8-13 Amps RV Air Conditioner (Start-up)16-18 Amps RV Air Conditioner (Running)13-16 Amps Window Air Conditioner5-10 Amps RV Roof Fan3-5 Amps Ceiling Fan (low to high setting)0.2-6 Amps Oscillating Fan0.5-1 Amps Furnace Fan7-9 Amps Space Heater (1600 watts)7-13 Amps Space Heater (800 watts)4-10 Amps Refrigerator5-8 Amps Portable Ice Maker19.2 Amps Blender5-6 Amps Microwave Oven (Standard)7-13 Amps Microwave Oven (Convection)7-15 Amps Portable Pizza Oven12.2 Amps Toaster8-10 Amps Coffee Maker5-8 Amps Electric Kettle6-12 Amps Frying Pan (Cooking - High)7-12 Amps Crock-Pot (Cooking - High)3-5 Amps Crock-Pot (Warming)1-2 Amps Food Processor5-8 Amps Hair Dryer (High)7-13 Amps Curling Iron0.5-0.7 Amps Iron (High)8-10 Amps Washer/Dryer140-16 Amps Vacuum (Hand-Held)2-6 Amps DVD, Disc Player, Radio0.5-2 Amps Television HD, Digital1.5-4 Amps Satellite Receiver/Game Console0.5-0.8 Amps Computer (Laptop)2-3 Amps Chargers (small electronics)0.5 to 1.5 Amps Drill2-6 Amps Golf Cart Charger13-21 Amps

What are "LR parts"?

All of these new cars are a POS to work on. Every thing crammed into a small engine compartment where you have to take four things off to get to the problem or like the Ford trucks where you have to take the cab off of the chassis to work on the engine. Engine parts made of plastic or carbon fiber that last until the warranty is up. They should stake the engineers to an ant hill with honey on their

Do it, just drill the hole or punch it through the firewall (bulkhead). In the late 70's and early 80's The camshaft lobs and rocker arms were going flat in the Volvo B27 V-6 engine due to lack of oiling between them. The easiest way to replace the cam shaft and rocker arms was to slid the shaft the rock arms road on to the firewall, mark where the shaft made contact, drill a hole there. and finish by sliding the shaft through the hole into the passenger compartment. Next was to slide the cam shaft to the firewall and drill another bigger hole for for it to slide through then I'd go to the other side of the engine and do the same thing there.

It will have a good coat in 4-6hr and cured in 24-48hr recoat in 24hr and no, you won't peel it off.

I used Eterna-Bond on my roof before it was replaced. After a couple of years the vinyl top of the tape cracked then pealed leaving the thick adhesive exposed.

You can go to https://www.wunderground.com/wundermap. Find a weather reporting station near where you're going, Left click on it; this will open a box with the current conditions in it, At the bottom of this box left click on the "visit local weather page for (local area), find history and left click. Here you can enter past dates to see what that day's temps were, what the average temps are, and what the past high and low temps were, In southern NV during the first part of October temps can reach 100°F during the day and average night temp of 76°F.

Sounds like fun. May be you can join @JAG1 and me in October. We're camp with 4-6 other people about an hour south of Carson City, NV and just west of Bridgeport, CA. We're there the first or second week in October for about 7-8 days.

Have one fabricated for the left side with an added vertical brace coming off the left side bumper mount for added support. Another idea is a front mount hitch where you could put a full cargo rack. True story: A few years ago my wife and I were touring Yellowstone National Park. We were heading south from the Mammoth area on US 89 which happened to be under road improvement at the time and a hard packed mess. Well I'm going slow and navigating all the bumps and holes the road crew could put in front of me when a truck pulling a 5th wheel, with a cargo rack in back, passes me on the right and goes bouncing by. About a mile down the road there's the truck and 5th wheel on the side of the road with the cargo rack sitting at a 45° angle in the dirt. So, get a strong quality built rack, don't over load it, and go slow over rough roads.

I just used Flex Seal on the RV's awning to replace the vinyl that was sun damaged and pealing. I cut out the bad vinyl out, cleaned the area, masked off the area with painters tape, applied two coats of sealant 24 hours apart. The first coat was applied with a brush for thick coverage with the next coat rolled on. I may have to recoat it after 4-5 years. Check "YouTube" for ideas. There is one guy who used it on the roof of what looks like a tent trailer; it looks good after a year. Another guy used it around his AC unit and it leaked; I think he should have replaced the AC seal. As for replacing the roof, Jag1 and I replaced the EPDM roof on my 25 foot 5er last year. The cost was around $1,000 for all the material, new parts, and coffee.

Batteries tested good, all right. Next, even though you jumped the cables it would be good automotive practice to do a voltage drop test on them. If the cables pass then remove the starter and bench test it. In the video he says a drop of up to .5 volts on the positive cable is acceptable but 3% of 12 volts, 0.36v, is better.

I've been soldering connections for the past 50 years with rosin core; haven't had a problem yet. I soldered radiators and fuel tanks, when they were still metal, with acid core.

No problem, check these out. https://learnmetrics.com/best-rv-air-conditioners/ https://www.rvweb.net/best-rv-air-conditioners-reviewed/

Could you install a small window AC like this one in your camper. It would be more than enough to cool the camper. and small generator can handle it. https://www.lowes.com/pd/LG-Electronics-5000-BTU-Mechanical-Air-Conditioner/5001460795?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-app-_-google-_-pla-_--_-soscooling-_-5001460795-_-0&placeholder=null&ds_rl=1286981&ds_rl=1286890&gclid=Cj0KCQjw2NyFBhDoARIsAMtHtZ7SyaA3d-a4TETVdZVgWDto2eX97g-rEqamnMSWx1IIzMRwCIDTGoQaAvBLEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds 5,000 BTU, 115V, 4.1A, 440W, for $159.