IBMobile

What is your idle like, to high or to low?

I payed $300.61 + tax in May of 05 for a cheap stainless steel Magnaflow. I can see small rust spots at the tip.

I run the boost elbow with my edge. I hit 28psi wide open then falls of to 25psi as the gate opens. The elbow is just a fitting with a small hole on the hose side. Due to the lack of air flow with the small hole it takes a little longer for the higher pressure to build up in the actuator housing an push the diaphragm to open the wast gate.

Don't forget to check the valve guides.

Crack open a line at an injector and see if you get fuel spray when cranking, that will tell you if the vp is working.

My alter ego:evilgrin:

P0507 idle air control system higher than expected. P1546 A/C clutch status circuit low voltage. P1456 leak detected in fuel EVAP system.

Dripley, you'r right. [*] The PCM has 3-32 pin connectors. One of the PCM out put is "CCD bus (+/-) circuits for: speedometer, voltmeter, fuel gauge,oil pressure gauge/lamp, engine temp. gauge,and speed control warn. lamp." page 8E-19

If you have the factory manual go to pages 8j 18-20. All the info from the sensor go into the PCM and are then sent to the instrument cluster. Either the 50 pin connector at the PCM is loose/dirty, or the PCM is bad.The connector at the cluster is just a bridge for info FROM the PCM.

Sounds to me that you have power feeding the high beam and drive lights at the same time or the dip relay is stuck. In other words a hot (battery voltage) wire is feeding current to the lights. Trace the wire harness from the head lights and drive lights and see what they have in common,IE harness, relay, switches, ect, ect. Inspect the damaged area carefully. A test light, ohm meter, and wire diagram are helpful.

Might be best to pull the radiator out to clean it. The temp would go up when I pulled my 5er up 6% grade.

Wal-Mart oil for me. It's gone up here too. I bought 5 gal @ $8.88 just before a barrel of oil went to $150. Wal-Mart raised the price to $10/gal. When oil went down to $55 a barrel the prices stayed at $10. Now a barrel is hanging around $85 and the price goes up once more, go figure. [*] :banghead:

Check the rubber hoses in the system. Have a helper either a stick between the seat and peddle or person push down on the peddle while you inspect the brake hoses. Look for bulging.

Your mother and my mother must have taught at the same school. Now I get to watch my daughter go through the same things with her kids that she did to me. Things don't change, just the people do.

Just found this part of the forum. I've had a small Volvo repair shop for the past 17yrs in the San Diego area and have been ASE certified master auto tech for over 30 yrs. I would rather be camping, fishing, and hunting in the mountains but stuck in So Cal.

I 3ed the t-stat. A cheapo thermostat, 4yrs old, get it out of there. If everything else is good what's left. A temp sensor will either open circuit or short circuit and the CEL would come on.

I use the rubber hose because it can get around corners and behind things and right up to moving parts,IE a spinning pulley with out the hose smacking into the side of your head like a screwdriver could. As for the noise I'd wait until it becomes more pronounced. The wholesale people I deal with for a/c parts is 1-800-radiator. I know they'r in SoCal but I didn't see your location.

Try using 'vaseline' next time. I use it all the time to put turbo, radiator, and heater hoses on. A little in the hose and a thin coating on the fitting. I also use it to hold check balls and small needle bearings in place when I use to do transmission work.

On a fishing trip at Brigeport, CA. About 65' long and yes, you need a CDL in CA to tow doubles.

If it was a bearing it would make noise all the time because the bearing is in the pulley that the belt is turning and when a bearing goes bad it makes a growling noise. The squeak could be coming from the belt tensioner when the A/C load is put on it. One way I locate noises is to use a 3-4 ft 5/16 hose. Hold one end to an ear and the other end to the suspect area. You can find and pinpoint noises along with vacuum and pressure leaks.

Solvent is good for cleaning oils and grease off. For varnish you need something stronger like throttle body spray or a good carb dip tank. In the old days carb and choke spray would do it but the EPA didn't like what was in it so I don't even stock it anymore.

With the lift pump giving 12 psi there wouldn't be fuel flow through the pump for cooling but wouldn't there be fuel in the pump for lubrication?

I tow about the same weight,and my trips take me from sea level to over 8,000 ft. I get 10.5 mpg going up and 13 mpg coming back, 400 mi each way.I thought about a oiled filter but the cleaning and oiling made me think about a bhaf. I found a 9" cone filter from AME that was a dry type and was washable. I've used it for about 20,000 miles and have washed it in a bucket of soap and water,came out fine. I did build my own heat shield for it. I don't know if it does any good but thought it was a good idea.

I just finished testing flow rate with no restriction, 5gal in 6.8min or 43.6gal/hr. That was with a 1/2" pickup hose and a 5/16" discharge hose. I took apart an old core and found the discharge side was 5/32". I could drill it out some ( 2/32") but it may not give me the results I'm looking for.

I've been thinking out side the box about using a bosch fuel pump and a pressure regulator. I can get the fuel pump new for app $100 or all most new for $25. the pressure regulator is $30. I all ready have the fuel pump, mounting bracket, and bushings in stock. The pump is used for 1983-1992 Volvos and puts out 90 gph and over 100psi. What do you all think? Yes it's a gas pump but I don't think diesel will hurt it.