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May be the previous owner replaced the rear brake wheel cylinders with the larger GM type for added braking power..

A friend has a 2006 Nissan UD 2600 turbo diesel with over 400k miles. Last month the truck had no top end power and would stall at every stop when fully warmed up. He brought it into the local shop where they found 2 injectors bad. After replacing all the injectors the engine ran fine for about a week. Now after a run down the freeway when stopping the idle will oscillate between 700-400 RPM then die and can be restarted immediatly. Any one have experience with this?

In California the max mag size is 10. Only law enforcement, when on the job, and criminal can own larger. You can only buy one rifle, shotgun, or pistol every 30 days with a 10 day waiting period thrown in. Starting in June you have to pass a background check with the DOJ to buy ammo ($35), It is good for 5 years and pay a $1 transaction fee for each purchase. All info of the trans action is kept by the DOJ.

That is because the system is still getting 12V from the park light circuit which powers up the light in the head light switch. I forgot about that. When you ground #30 look at the head light switch ; you'll see the little blue fog light in the switch is on. Now pull the park light fuse and it should go out and no voltage to #30. If this is the case and you still have 12V from the fog light fuse to the fog lights then there is an open grounding circuit between the fog lights and the relay terminal #30.

All the wires at the PCM are 18 gauge EXCEPT C1 pins #22 RD/WT, # 31 and #32 BK/TN, C3 pin #12 DG/OG; these are 14 gauge.

That accessory PDC looks like it may work for me. I've got someone who wants my torque converter lockup system along with a grid heater bypass switch with resistors installed in their truck and this should handle all the relays and power fuses I need to use.

We've seen this problem before; like @dripley said, get rid of the isolator, test alternator ac out put, and do the ground mods. This is cheap and simple before you go dumping a bunch of money chasing the problem. If the AC level is to high it can also take out your ECM, PCM, or the ABS module in due time.

It sounds like you have the common torque converter lock/unlock problem caused by high AC voltage from the alternator. You need to check what the AC voltage is at the B+ terminal at the back of the alternator. It should be .03 volts or less. You might want to do this modification.

The chart for C1 at the PCM doesn't show an orange/black (OR/BK) wire but there is an orange/dark blue (OR/DB) wire at pin #23 used for the throttle position sensor signal. May be this is the wire with the dark blue looking black.

In the PDC remove the fog light relay. With the head light and ignition switches in the off position there should be voltage at terminal #30. With a jumper wire ground terminal #30, the fog lights should come on. Turn the head light switch on and select low beam, there should be battery voltage at terminal #86. Now select high beam, there should be no voltage to terminal #86. With the head light switch and fog light switch both turned on Ohm test terminal #87 then terminal #85, both should have a reading of less than 5 ohms. Terminal #87A doesn't do anything so it is blank.

Almost all the ground wires in the truck are black with orange tracer. The only black/orange (BK/OR) wire to check in the fog light system is the one from the headlamp switch to G201. The other two wires to check are the light blue (LB) from the fog lights to the relay and the brown/yellow from the relay to the headlamp switch. Recheck the wire diagram, if you need to, as to were the wires go.

I have the same problem with the knobs moving to on by just brushing against them. Several times I've smelled gas in the kitchen and found a knob slightly turned on.

I like it and that handle works for me. As for hot tile, I have the same stove but in white and no problem with the heat effecting the cabinets on either side.

Good, a complete constant failure is the best when doing diagnostics on this type of problem.

@98whitelightnin this might help

Yes, but I would look for an open circuit between and including the head light switch to the lights. The ground G201 can still ohm tested when the head light switch is accessed.

Don't worry about where that ground is right now. It's probably good. Not only are the fog lights grounded there but also the: Head lamp switch Cigar lighter Instrument cluster Head lamp beam selector switch A/C heater control Electric brake provision Power outlet Glove box, ash tray and cup holder lights. From joint connector #5 If you had a problem with this ground then these other systems would be effected but run the fog light test as outlined above.

Next time it happens remove the head light switch and ohm test the black/orange wire; it should be close to 0 ohms; if not then you have a bad ground. If the ground tests good then with a jumper wire ground the brown/yellow wire at the head light switch; if the fog lights come on then the switch is bad If they don't come on then remove the fog light relay and ground terminal 30; If they come on then the wires from the relay to lights are good and there is an open circuit between the head light switch and the relay. Ohm test the test the wire from the head light switch to pin #85 and the pin #87; reading should be close to 0 ohms. If not then check for open circuit in the brown/yellow wire. It might be at connector C134 (multipin connector at PDC) or splice S183 (in the PDC).

I'm with @dave110on this. Is this what your looking at? It's #7 in the diagram. https://www.moparpartsgiant.com/parts-list/1998-dodge-ram-2500-quad-club-cab/service-brakes-rear-height-sensing-system.html?PNC=7

Recharging drained batteries by driving around or idling put a heavy load and strain on the charging system and should be avoided. I don't think you could put a full charge back into the batteries and if the alternator is marginal it could be damaged. The best way is like @Tractorman said "slow charge for several hours".

If you keep replacing the crank sensor and get the same result then it's not the crank sensor. The ECM was good when tested so new sensor and good ECM then may be bad connector/wiring. I would start doing some doing some volt/ohm testing on that circuit. Read this and do the tests then let use know what you find.

I looked at Ford and couldn't see the engine through all that plastic covering it and did not like the idea of the turbo in the back of the engine. Turbo Volvos are like that and are a pia to work on. The GMC/Chevrolet Duramax was to new on the market and one thing I learned being in the car business for over 45 years is Do Not buy any vehicle in the first year or two. The manufacture is still working the bugs out. Opened the hood on a Ram Cummins diesel and I could see the engine, the exhaust manifold with turbo hanging there and the intake system. Not a bunch of plastic covering things to make it look pretty; an engine that had been around for a long time and straight six is easier to work on than a V8.

I went through 3 stock lift pumps in 74,500 miles before I installed a Fuel Boss.

Warranty....you funny. That's a hell of a lot of power to do that. How much?

Good going getting to the bottom of this. Did you wire the ECM to pin 86 of the rely, the relay pin that they said was turned on with the ignition switch, or straight to the fuel pump?