IBMobile

Well... They're not chicken legs.

I thought shorts were for snow weather.

Key off and battery disconnected per Dodge factory service manual. With out disconnecting the battery a large voltage spike could surge through the PCM when unplugging/plugging the connectors to it.

I'd take the rubber fittings on the vacuum lines, for the HVAC system, on the right side of the engine along with the 2 one way valves. Get the head light switch along with any other switches. The A/C low pressure switch is the same, it's on top of the accumulator right fire wall. If it has cruise control take the servo but I'm not sure an 01 is the same. Take the PDC. Cut the wire harness as far down as possible then unbolt it, There are a lot of good terminal ends in there that you can use if you want to add extra relays and fuses to your PDC. Keep the fuses and relays too.

Anytime a code is set, a code is cleared with a scan tool or the batteries are disconnected the monitors will need to reset. The two wires are joined together in the wire harness at S160 (splice) and go to the lift pump. You could add a resister between the power led and ground to mimic the fuel pump.

DIESELS WILL KILL YOU

Check the 14 AWG brown wire for voltage at the starter motor when the key is turned to the start position. If voltage then remove starter an inspect contacts in solenoids. If no voltage check for voltage at fuse #9 in the PDC. If fuse is good then check for voltage at pin #30 of starter relay. If no voltage check for open circuit between fuse and relay. If voltage at pin #30 then check for voltage at pin #86 of starter relay when key is turned to the start position. If no voltage check for open circuit between ignition switch and relay or bad ignition switch. If voltage at pin #86 then check for ground with an ohm meter at pin #85 of the fuel pump relay. If ground is good then replace relay, try another one from the PDC. If ground is bad then check the wires going to the park/neutral position switch. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- These are the two codes I'd be looking at next after the starter problem is resolved. There may be a bad injection pump.

It took me 48 years of working on them and watching YouTube for an hour to figure this stuff out.

The last time I had the truck tested the smog tech told me the BHAF needed a CARB sticker and the Edge EZ was not approved. He then turned his blind eye to it and it passed. Didn't the PO of your truck smog it before selling it to you. A smog certificate is needed on change of ownership and the seller is responsible for it, see section 24007 (b) (2) of the California Vehicle Code. vehicle Code.

I would put the K&N on for the test. Why take the chance of a failed test and then have to pay to have it tested again because of the wrong air filter.

Here's what I did with my fuel boss set up. Had my SMOG test run back in December with no codes and no problems. You can just run the wire from the ECM for the fuel pump to terminal 86 and ground terminal 85. The ECM will see the resistance in the relay coil and think it's the fuel pump. Be sure the relay has a resistor or diode in it for voltage spike protection. If you have an after market air filter it will need to have a CARB label on it or the truck will fail. Be sure the monitors are reset and the ready light is green in the OBD 2 reader or the truck will fail. To reset the monitors the truck needs to be driven 10+ miles at 65 MPH, 3 times. If you can't get the truck tested in time pay the DMV fees to avoid any penalties but you wont get the new sticker for the plate until it's tested.

All most all part store alternators are Chinese rebuilds. The Chinese rebuilders get the cores from where ever, clean them up, replace only what is bad, paint them and ship tem back to the States. They hope it will last till either the warranty is up, you lose the receipt, get rid of the vehicle or just go away. They don't care because it's a numbers game. They have your good money and you have there junk.

HERE'S HOW TO REPLACE IT

REVENGE OF THE GHOST CHICKENS IN THE SKY

EV1 gauges for 13 years and I don't know if this place is still in business. I'm using ⅛ " air brake line to the fuel gauge with a small ball valve right at the main fuel line T fitting for the shut off.

Do you need just the relay or the wire harness built for it too?

This might help.

I'm running the Fuel Boss pump with a back up pump plumbed into the system but pulled the fuse for it because I've found that it isn't nesacery for starting. It is nice for purging the fuel lines with out having to spin the Fuel Boss by cranking the engine or with a drill. I too keep a spare belt under the back seat but still on the first belt. When I do need to purge air from the fuel system I refit the fuse, pull the relay that I installed and jumper between the relay receptacle contacts #30 and #87. This will energize the back up fuel pump which will stay running as long as the jumper is in place. Because I live in an area of California that requires my truck to be emissions tested biannually with an OBD scan performed I keep the relay installed with the fuse out. This will allow the ECM to energize the relay at pin #86, thinking it's the fuel pump, and not set the code p0230 Transfer Pump Circuit Out of Range.

A quality transmission/power steering filter has a bypass valve in it, like an oil filter does, other wise there would be a lot of burned up transmissions out there. So as far as losing your steering or brakes because of it, I don't think so. An inline filter does just that, it filters the fluid of different particulates. It does this two ways. First the fluid passes over a magnet which collects any iron particles. The fluid then passes through a filter which removes the other contaminants. The filter will in no way protect the fluid from thermal breakdown but will protect the pump, steering box and hydro boost from premature wear and brake down due to contaminated fluid.

These new vehicles are being made as light as possible to meet the federal Corporate Average Fuel Standards (CAFE), still conform to the National Transportation Safety Board (NTSB) requirements, reduce tail pipe emissions for the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) and make a profit. With computer aided designs the tolerances can be taken down to where the fudge factor is engineered to the minimum allowed. The weight reduction in just the wiring harness has been reduced. The pre 1990 autos had heaver gauge wire in them IE: 16 AWG used for the park, stop, turn lights now there is 18 AWG and some systems, CVVT solenoid comes to mind, are using 20 AWG. Plastic bumpers, plastic doors, plastic fenders and plastic junk. Where lucky these trucks have made it this long. With bad EPA solder, ground wires just jammed together with out even a crimp. Auto trans that can't take the torque of a diesel engine, OEM lift pumps that fail every 15,000 miles, dashboards that crack into 50 pieces, et cetera. With out web sites like this and some decent aftermarket parts these trucks would have ben in the bone yard years ago.

Not good using the compressor wheel as a blender. The compressor blades may be out of balance and/or slightly bent. In the picture the blade at the 4 o'clock position doesn't lock quite right or it could be the lighting.

The torque convertor should unlock and the RPM drop. The TC lock up switch is put in to keep the convertor locked. I believe the APPs going to idle circuit sends a signal to unlock the TC.

I've been trying to keep up on this thread. Wish I could contribute more to the research but I'm busier than a one armed paperhanger. There are a lot of promising things being found and discussed. It will be interesting what the finale findings are.

All the cylinder head bolt torque specs I work with are similar to what you have, tighten to X number of ft-lbs then angle torque so many degrees. I never go back and recheck.