JAG1

Anyone heard good from them? My new AD100 is squeaking loud enough and when it squeaks it looses fuel pressure but comes right back for a moment. I hope they treat me right. It's only got 7,000 miles on it. - - - Updated - - - They wanted to send me another pump but, they wanted my credit card number for shipping. I told them I don't have credit cards and would rather have my money back unless you can convince me you are building the pump like the old days when it was reliable and last longer than 7000 miles. That's when he hung up on me. Now this is a bunch of BS. AND THEY BARELY SPEAK ON THE PHONE... so you can't understand what they are saying. 'Sorta' like they are half dead down there and you ask them to speak clearer and they don't. These people me off cause I know how hard it is to build a good biz and they are throwing it away. . - - - Updated - - - Correction; The Raptor 100 only lasted 5,400 miles not the 7,000 mentioned above.

Mike that's a GI alternator isn't it? I don't know about those, but it does have the Denso style main cable to battery.It looks like to me in the pics that the previous owner has cut the small pins for the pin connector off for some unknown reason.I'm just goin by the four alternators that I have ..... First gen, a Denso and a Delco Remy. Second gen done yesterday, a Bosch replaced with a Denso. To start I would be to looking at the alt and see if it is the correct amp rating stamped on the back or the side, but, why that pin connector is on top in the pics ...none are like that I have....Something isn't right. everyone I talked with said either only a Denso or Bosch, that's all they listed anyhowOn edit.... What the heck do I know anyhow. I'm gettin old but would like to help so much I just open my mouth...... I think what happened is that alt might be one with a Voltage regulator????????????????

I know for certain that plug laying on top is for a Bosch style alternator. And your alternator is a rebuilt Denso style. The Ultima sticker shows it is a rebuilt alternator. According to reviews that rebuilder has a bad reputation. That's beside the point anyhow, but, it looks like to me that the previous owner did not want to cut off the plug and put on the right electrical terminals in case he wanted to go back to the Bosch style alternator. Getting wire to that plug is near impossible so he went back to the source rather than trying to deal with the pin plug.Yesterday I pulled my Bosch alternator and put in a new Denso style. I just cut the plug and added terminals like your supposed to. And it does not matter which wire goes to either small stud on the back of the alternator. They are none polar.You want to watch rebuilt alternators rebuilt by Ultima is the word out there.I have reason to believe that the Denso alternators are a little better than the Bosch.BTW, looling at the pics again tells me you have an alternator that is for a different rig because it should have two smaller studs on the back. Not that thing on top where the pins look cut off. The denso also has a stud connection for a alternator housing ground to go to the negative side of the battery. Someting is not right with that alternator that's on there. It should be a 136 amp alternator with that added ground stud.

Mopar Man says if the pump gets jammed from debri or the elect motor seizes it will burn up the ECM. That's why you should get the power from the batteries instead, letting the ECM activate a relay.

Can you rely on a heavy cable ground from the alternator housing/ frame to the neg. battery post? My Mech book says this is a very good thing to do especially when the alt. bracket is powder coated. I found some resistance in grounding from that coating.

Was your lift pump still powered from the ecm when this happened? The new aftermarket ones power off the batteries AND a relay is activated by the ECM/ old LP power supply line which helps to save the ECM.

I always wanted one that had good style, following the contours of the truck, without the heavy austrailian outback look. I would like diamond plate on top for standing on to do engine work. A couple tow hooks, fog lamps and probably no brush bars or at least of minimum of bars.Might be cool to have a lockable compartment for the jack and tools.

Incredible, he left 'em in the dust or the water vapor. Absolutely incredible! Thanks.

Are those codes for a gas engine? Did they sell you the correct PCM?I hope you find it.

Personally I have heard about enough tank vents clogging that many could be marginally clogged and truck owners don't know it. I think the tanks need to breath better anyhow. It makes the lift pump work harder otherwise.

Big lines all the way is even better. I did that with a major improvement overall.

You never said what the pressure was at idle.....

The vented caps sometimes have a flapper, air can only go one way. Think it may restrict flow. I found one on the road still new and it fit my first gen truck so I use it. Needle nose pliers gets the flapper junk out. I knew to do that because this old truck has always had a clogged tank vent.Before I just drilled a 1/8th in. hole the non vented fuel cap. You drill only thru the first layer of the cap on the bottom so moisture doesn't go in the tank.I am sorry I can't get the pics on my fuel tank mods. I did go out and get the shots, waited for the sun to shine too, but, when I went to load them on my computer we cannot find the camera cord. Still looking

I will do that today. Some of the plumbing is a little backyard mech but it works.

Nice truck and interesting pic.... I would like to nominate this for TOTM .

Sorry I did not get back about the tank vent till now. Been very busy working a lot .Any how the symptoms you have is definitly a clogged tank vent. The owner of Source Automotive who only works on the ram trucks said he's seen 4 or 5 like that. He said a couple had the fuel tank almost completely collapsed. You can add your own tank vent just in front of the filler cap inside the fuel door is where I have mine. I just used the filler neck vent hose and routed it to the new screened vent there. It does not make the truck fill slower nor overflow all over the paint this way Then put the return fuel line on the filler neck (what was the fill vent fitting). This way your not dumping the hot return fuel next to the fuel supply in the bottom of the cannister or module in the tank. Helps the injector pump stay cooler. This helps to see the return fuel by removing the cap. See how your truck's doing and able to better mix 2 cycle boat motor oil when you dump it in for fuel additive. Believe me you should go with 2 cycle for lots of reasons with this new goofey diesel.With the new tank vent put on with what was the filler neck vent hose from the tank you can add a few extra gallons since it vents enough to really fill up the tank. You should cut out those goofey in tank screens in the module and put on a real pre filter before the lift pump too.Anyhow there's a lot of info if any good... 2 cents

I got good advice when I got PacBrake air bags. I was told the best are the ones that go over the leaf springs and on the outside of the frame. Drilling required however.I had to watch really close as to where to drill the holes in the frame cause of stuff in the backside. Once you mount the lower bracket and the truck is sitting without a load you need to cut an 8 inch block to rest on the lower mount so the upper bracket on top is parallel with the lower one and at the correct distance of 8 '' above.PackBrake is supposed to have thicker brackets. I saw a bent firestone bracket from loading a truck camper, but Firestone does make a stronger bracket if you pay the extra. I paid $320 back a couple years ago.

Me too..... I sure wish someone could get another replacement pump that they don't want and tear it down with pics. Might be very interesting.

I had this problem once and found my factory filter cap was not torqued enough. 25 ft. pounds is all. It's plastic so check for cracks and the O ring is on there correctly. When you tighten the filter cap you gotta' use the big socket not the center square part. That's how some have cracked in the past.I added my own tank vent because some factory vents have clogged in the past.Just a shot in the dark

I have the factory sport package. When you turn on the brights you really know it. It lights up the road like your helping a C-1-30 locate a runway. Wouldn't wish those brights on anyone coming the other way. And you know those occasional people that don't dim their headlites? Well, the sport headlites makes everyone behave themselves and mind their manners:lol:

Wish Mike would chime in. If you are sure about your connections I would take the VR back for another one. I have also read that batteries act like a big resistor/ capacitor so I' m guessing here..... What if the VR was hooked to the battery furthest away from the PCM? Would that steady the voltage and pulsing?I'm afraid I'm not much help.

Please let me know what you find. I need to do this to my truck sometime soon.BTW, Did you follow Mopar's wiring article? Assuming you did... I sent a PM to Mike about this.

Ah ha... So that's why they call it 'battery equalization' . It mixes the tendency to settle at the bottom.

I think your right there, the gauge is just showing voltage level.... Is it possible The VR is bad? Wires hooked up correctly? I know I'd dbl check. Another thought is and I can't remember, if there is a wire that is supposed to be disconnected from the PCM now that there's an external VR.The only time I ever saw a voltage spike like that was when I had a bad ground to the chassi. All the gauges were reading too high until I found it. Shoot.... do I even remember that right?

Thanks. There are no remote starters or anything like that. Fortunately, I do know how to locate what is sometimes called 'Earth Leaks' with my volt meter. I'm planning on poking around later when it warms up. I like the idea of using solar simply because of the thought of something plugged in all the time could be an eventual fire hazard. I did have a charger get so hot once it melted it.Still considering all options.