JAG1

One of you guys should start a dodge parts superstore . I had a dream they stopped accepting United States currency but all stores accepted Cummins parts instead .

I just had my fuel module out and can see what Dripley is talking about. You want to turn it a little counter clockwise.Also check the wires connection on the top of the tank. Mine doesn't click in or lock anymore so I had to zip tie it.

I think I know what you mean... you don't have the truck yet but have your heart set on one, right?They are nice trucks.... can't imagine buying a full size truck without the Cummins in it. I'd rather have a standard trans instead of the slusher behind it though.

Do you have to pay for shipping is all? Thank you.

Thank you everyone. I will be cutting the D/S end the correct way. I'll report back.

How old are these pumps you guys have on there? How many Miles?

It is very sporadic and just momentary. It does it more frequent going up a hill and gettin' on it a little harder. You can watch the pressure gauge bouncing at the same time. I can also get it to do it more frequent on mountain road turns. If you hit a spot with lots of switch backs, it will do it more often even though it's level ground and the tank's half full.

That's good thought Dripley. That straw might be at the bottom of the tank. Wish the rain would stop it makes me lazy.

My check's going out soon..... the thing you have to remember is the money sent to Mike does not disappear like the Gov't . Mike and this site will always comes thru for you.

As you may know from my previous posting that I have this strange sound like a hoot sound and can watch my fuel pressure drop when it happens. I have completed the fuel tank access door in the truck bed so I full freedom to diagnose any issues. So now I want to blow a small amount of air pressure into the fuel line at the top of the tank to check for leaks in the suction side. Will it do any damage to the vp diaphram or other components if I blow about 10 psi into the fuel delivery lines to check on leaks?I removed the fuel module/ anti slosh tube and found my draw straw partially blocked by the fuel module housing. it was too near the side so part of the plastic housing and was partially blocking the bottom of the draw straw. Also I found the 1/2'' draw straw was cut with a tubing cutter that reduced the I.D. size where cut. So I used a tool to trim a slight bevel to the inside of the DS and got it to a full 1/2''.I cannot find the problem yet with the hoot sound and sudden pressure drop, but want those interested to know I have the intank screens cut out for better flow to the draw straw inside the module.Any suggestions are very welcome... this site provides free Mopar Care for my truck and I appreciate it from all it's members. Nancy Pelosie hands off!

I think it's cause it sounds like it might be an Arab sounding name. Did you say your from NY? What's it like living /surviving there? Seems like it would be hard justto find a place to park a truck like ours.

I don't know if you know but, need to keep at least 10 p.s.i. air in those air bags or they can self destruct.

What happened to the one that came with the truck? Can you use parts of the old one and just piece it together with rubber hose lengths and some clamps? At that price I'd have a muffler shop fab one up perhaps. I know you don't much need the filler neck vent because mine fills just fine without it. My return fuel goes into the old filler neck vent. I can see the return flow inside the filler neck when removing the fuel cap. Then the filler neck vent termination point on the top of the tank became the tank vent hosed up to just inside the fuel door with a screened boat style vent there.

Don, it looks good with the 1/4'' aluminum diamond plate. It is flush with the top of the corrugated bed so won't snag . I like the look of that shiny new door in there too.

I think they want 4 year olds in school so they can get more taxes from the mothers being able to go back to work sooner.I think they don't mind taxing more and more because it keeps us poorer / willing to work for less and less. This helps hold the dollar value in spite of the money press working overtime.When Gov't. people retire don't they get pretty good levels of income?...So.... the poorer we are from the taxes.... the richer they are by comparison, when retiring.I saw a guy building a home. Nothing out of the ordinary as far as safety goes, but the Gov't fined him around 15,000 bucks for just little stuff. By comparison the average homeowner always does those things around the house the same way. This made me mad cause the guy is a nice guy... a good carpenter builder.

Mine is sucking air at a half a tank....... does anyone know if the fuel level sender fails when still showing a full tank?I need to know because sucking air at a half tank seems impossible unless it's really near empty and gauge shows half..

Yes, where are you from?I get all the news I need on the Mopar Forum. Hope you do too.

I would like to know when your fuel gauge sending unit goes out, does it go all the way to empty? Or does it fool you into thinking you have enough fuel and you just end up running out of fuel?Anyone remember? Thanks very much.

Hello. Lotsa goods folks around here. You will find good information every time you have a question.:thumb1:This forum's at the top of my list for news........ welcome.

:lmao:

Another time with my first gen I was coming home from work late and my fuel module, for whatever reason, decided to brake off and flop around in the tank. Tried to fill it up but still had to be towed.I needed that truck the next day and had to be there. Ended up working on it till 3 am dropping the tank and reinstall. It would have saved time if I had an access door and could have avoided the tow home if I rigged the draw straw for temporary.

I knew you weren't judging Caj, I was just being funny's all. I'm getting older and plan on keeping the truck. My problem has been contorting my body and reaching above the tank at the same time. It's getting harder for me to hook everything back up too. Now everything is all right there, an easy reach. I notice my fuel lines are already cracking and have another possible problem with the draw straw. I don't know.... I just wanted another challenge to modify the truck, the way it should be built, INMHO. I still have the original fuel gauge register in there too.

CAJ, because now all I have to do is lift my access plate cover and there everything is. Unbolting two bolts is no problem it's everything else that goes along with the complete drop and reinstall. That's why:tease:

I just did mine and realized what to do but, need some input on this idea.First of all I want to point out that the bed rib frame right in the way over the tank lid is very thin gauge steel. So my thought on this is to go ahead and cut it out of the way and place new steel reinforcement that makes it removable and stronger than original.My idea is simply to add steel reinforcement that sleeves/ slides inside both ends of the cut away bed rail and bolt them together with a few bolts. It would need to be rectangular tubing that fits inside the other just like a reciever hitch does with square tubing. When you want tank top access you simply remove the two or three bolts and slide the reinforcement steel out of the way further inside the bed rail or pull them out.I did not realize this easier fix till I completely reframed the cut away access area. It was a pain and needed lots of planning to stay with using all existing factory frame holes for bolting. I did not want to drill the frame at all and didn't.Pics to come later after it quits raining.... I'm such a wus.

Thank you ISX I see it now:ashamed: Duh!