JAG1

You might need to find out if the filter is designed to operate on the suction side. Also, remove the intank screens if you get a prefilter. This will help to some degree for better flow. Intank screens have been known to eventually varnish up or clog.Best job is 1/2'' ball shut off valves on either side of the pump and filter. That way you don't loose prime nor drain diesel all over you when changing pump on the road or filter at your shop.I like the 1/2'' inch lines all the way with my big draw straw.

What is it, or why is it bad to get your transmission serviced with a Power Flush???I have been told that it is very bad for a transmission, but, Why? T.I.A.

Mine will shift into OD at around 45 mph. I understand that is a little hard on it to let it do that so I usually manually control that till around 55.

Thanks MnTom. I did do a google search but was unsuccessful. Just read the manual, what I could understand. It is very technical, showing how sensitive this dvm is, but it's okay. I know enough for most of my needs anyhow.

That's pretty good if actually shows the AC fluctuations. I said the above cause a friend of mine brought over another brand of dvm and it showed a steady 30 vac also. Lowes is better for sure. I mostly do business with locally owned building supply shops. They have guys that will search products and prices for me from various distributors. They have been very much of an asset to me for this reason. They have been able to beat HD's prices on many big ticket items making me look good to my customers after they've shopped the HD prices. I like keeping the money local that way too Now to find a FLUKE model 77 owners instruction manual.... Anyone know where I can download one? .

I did that years ago... bought a lesser expensive one, but, it won't properly detect AC noise from an alternator. When switching to AC mode it always incorrectly show 30 vac as if the alt was bad. I don't know if you know about excess AC noise, but, can burn up the pcm or the ecm and cause confused transmission shifting. A fluke is the very best dvm. I noticed a major difference immediatly just watching the voltage regulator do it's adjustments. My old one could not do that. No offense.... I skip Home Depot every chance I can get and I'm a contractor.

About two weeks ago I crossed the wrong wire and sent a full 13 and 1/2 volts positive thru the whole grounding system on my truck. Thanks to Michael Nelson's phone conversations he helped me with getting some problems cleared up. After disconnecting the batteries for awhile the temp gauge started working again and the trans started shifting again. Next with a code reader I had the trouble codes cleared.Mike still reminded me that I may have burned one of the diodes in the ALT. This was a bad deal since I had put in a new alternater only about 25 miles ago..Well I got the bright idea to check Craigslist for a Fluke multimeter since they are so expensive, but work correctly, not like the lessor expensive ones. Well, I got double luckey. The meter was 40 bucks for a model 77 and works very well and the new alternator was still good as new with very low AC voltage noise. Hurray!:hyper:Nothin' like having a good volt meter just before going on a long trip.

It's been a long time but I think I tried all different ways to stop the heat. It would only happen when running lites/ tail lites and marker lites on the tow vehicle were on at night.

Driply... you want the best looking most useful truck around? Put on an aluminum ProTech flatbed with the full length side saddle tool boxes.:drool: Man ! that makes a nice truck

My head lite, tail lite, dash dimmer switch used to get so hot when running at night while towing. You couldn't hardly touch it. I finally added a long heat sink piece of copper to the back of the switch. This helped alot, but, the best way is to use relays to solve the heat problem by not running everything thru the switch.

Thanks, I call it beatin' the system You can come take a look if you like. Maybe when your heading my way sometime on the weekends. By shear embarrasment of the two days project to fix what I had chopped BTW, I set my heavy camper in the bed for a week long camping/ weight stress test. It's doing great... like it never got chopped.

I can have my fuel module out in 2 minutes :tease:but...... it took me two days to reframe the truck bed correctly after cutting an access door

That's the problem Dan, Our fuel does not stay under the Bosch maximum score value. Your always going to be accelerating injection pump wear without 2 stroke oil added. Most other fuel additives are best to use cleaning paint brushes and can even increase the scoring/ scrape value.

I lift mine on the axle tubes as close to the springs as possible. Do you guys still use the factory jack? I'm thinking it's not too great of a jack and should get a small hydro jack, but, wouldn't that leak under the back seat?

I notice how it affects it more on my 12 valve work truck. Going up the same hill every morning, I can tell when I forgot to add 2 stroke cause it has noticeably less torque.I hope epa doesn't get wind of how us 'diesel dads' love this stuff, they could take it to the tank BY requiring some sort of mandate mixture.

Say you get stranded out in the middle of almost nowhere and your Cam sensor goes out. Isn't there a way you can just hot wire it till you get back into town?:think:What about the crank sensor too ?

Good post hexOrz. Thanks much.

If you have to work in the heat, I learned from a very smart lady that you do much better if you keep the back of your spine cooler. Just keep your T shirt wet down the middle with some water. Keepng your spine cool will help the rest of you too. It works good.

Even though I'm a long ways from these fires I still wanna say thank you Mike

I would love to see pics of this. I've no right to ask as I've never posted the pics showing my fuel tank access hatch/plate in the bed like I promised

My overloads wore down and got weak. Had an extra spring added and that lost strength also. Next truck I got Pac Brake A/Bags on advice from Source Automotive and they perform just right. They get the thumbs up:thumbup2:

I read about a guy, on another forum, that had the same issue. Bought something like 3 different brands of vented caps and tested them. He found the best one was the Stant and the Napa brand did not vent at all. His buddy tested them down at his smog station diagnose equipment. One guy on this thread said his tank collapsed so bad it cracked. Yes, the vent is the one on the far left top of the tank. I do not trust these Dodge tank vents because once when I topped off my tank that vent continued to spew out a stream of diesel fuel that didn't stop for about 6 or 7 minutes. So mine failed to hold the fuel in. I eventually just blocked it off for good. I forgot to say...... I could get away with blocking my tank vent because I already had another vent mod of my own installed.

I just allow for the discrepancy on my trans temps. I works fine as a warning. I really like mine.

Joe, you are so close to source Automotive I would go down there and make them an offer on a deep dish trans pan with the service drain and hold 4 extra qts. If your ever towing heavy in the mountains in summer you'll be very glad you did. It has the trans temp sensor stud already.It's a cool item