JAG1

Make sure the truck will roll easy in neutral to make sure brakes aren't stuck with a bad caliper. You can also check by feeling for excess heat at the center of each wheel after a run. That will tell you which one. It happens often if you don't change the brake fluid every two years because water builds in the bottom of the caliper and pistons. I had a squeal that was engine related. I could not tell if it was from the water pump or the idler pulley and since I travel long distance I solved the problem by replacing both. In your case if you get to a large parking area you could shut the engine down while rolling to see if it goes away. And when its rolling quietly you might listen with the window down to see if the brake pedal changes the sound any. Another thought I have is the carrier Bearing. Also Dripley is good man for saying rear differential fluid change by opening up to look for excess metal chips and wear. My front and rear diff. fluids were all up to correct levels, but were very dark. After changing them my mileage went up noticeably. It's a good thing to do and not neglect it like I did. I went to a hundred thousand before servicing and the gears have thin film of black sludge starting to coat everything. I cleaned the bottom residual oil at the bottom with the covers off too. I think it's better to use the gaskets with a thin film of rtv on both sides. Without the gasket I tried just the RTV, but it leaked. So I changed both 2nd gens, 4 differentials in all with gaskets and not having one leak. Many guys use no gasket and are good. I was not good at that. You will need the pump that fits on the gear oil bottle to pump it in there and you torque the bolts to 18 ft pounds. Torque in a star pattern to 6 then to 12 then to the 18 ft. lbs.

I had trouble with both my 2nd gens when I put new Raptor pumps on each truck. I couldn't get steady fuel pressures for anything until Mopar Man suggested I adjust the regulators up to around 30 then down to about 7 a few times. That solved my problem. Perhaps the regulator is oscillating or screaming somehow and you should try adjusting it up and down to see if any difference. I don't really know but I think there are similarities between AD and Raptor pumps. I wonder if its cavitating starving for fuel from a tank screen clog or tank vent clogged? Did you install 1/2 inch draw straw and get those clog screens out of the tank?

Out of the two brands of fuel pressure gauges I own and have tested for accuracy, the Isspro is the closest to actual pressures. my excavator who was in business for over 40 yrs owned lots of equipment, says always go with and stay with Isspro. If you call Isspro in Portland, Oregon they will tell you the best source on where to buy and avoid retail that's been added on retail. I cannot remember the source they gave me but it's on Airport Way in Portland, Oregon. They will remember and help you. They good people down there.

After a good long run place your hand on the wheel center to see if the passenger side is hotter than the left side. I'm going to buy one of those temp sensor guns, have it under the seat as I've had a lot of caliper failures. Changing the brake fluid every two years helps alot. Keeps the water from settling in the caliper pistons and causing rust.

I tried some leather but it curled real bad in the sun.

You just gotta stop tryin to make all the money and you'll be alright You know I heard about Riggins and New Meadows going into recession till you make a bank deposit and money supply good again. Just a little humor Mike, couldn't resist

That [nline filter is so small it will restrict fuel flow enough to do damage to your VP44. It would be better left off of there. What you really need though is a bigger canister type filter before the lift pump, a big line kit, a fuel pressure gauge and an after market lift pump capable of holding a minimum of 14 p.s.i.. We have all had to do this for a healthy long running engine and injection pump.

Glad to hear Eileen is doing well again and everything getting back to normal. It was nice to meet Eileen on the telephone on New Years Eve.

I was thinking about posting the same thought. I would jamb the door open using some rolled up foam padding, Standing inside the bed, reaching over the cab across to the window frames on both sides I would start pulling both sides together. I would start gently adding more pressure as needed until the drivers window is aligned correctly IBMobile .... just givin ya hell cause its funny Boss

IBMobile had the top of his door pulled out so hard I believe it broke the glass. A bear did that trying to get to the candy he won't stop leavin in there. He has no teeth left, but won't stop eatin it. Hopefully he will jump in to say what he did to fix it.

Yep my wifes car we bought used had a K&N oiled filter. While it only had 98K miles the intake tubes and intake system had a sticky dirty oil coating. I had to clean all that out. I hesitated to throw out the K&N sitting on the shelf, but after a year laying there I tossed it We got a deal though as the car was considered to have very high miles, but with her work only 3 miles away it became a low miles car within a few short years. Everytime you wash a washable filter, the filter membrane breaks down a little each time. Plus any filter that needs to have oil saturating the filter will coat your intake and let fine dust pass thru.

Your need to maintain minimum 14 P.S.I. at all times even when hauling heavy uphills, accelerating etc. Add some 2 strike oil and get the fuel lubricity within Bosch specs for the VP44. Most of us with long living VP44's have had to go to the Vulcan half inch line kit to keep pressures within range. Make sure your not sucking fuel thru an old stock in the tank lift pump too. Sounds like your VP may still be under warranty. Make sure you get a replacement with the new PSG board and that your fuel tank vent isn't clogged by running with the cap loose to see any difference. The half inch line kit from Vulcan is pretty much needed to keep your VP happy. I'm sorry to hear about your troubles.... welcome to this forum.

Cool, nice truck and welcome to the Forum from Oregon.

Thanks IBMobile.... thats a good photo of Dripley while at the helm down there at the other ECM repair shop.

Around here its the ground squirrels making nests in there when you have the block heater plugged in all the time. Nice and warm and they like to chew the insulation off the wires.

Let me see if I can write an example about testing with a volt meter..... Say you have a stretch of positive wire that you want to check....... by placing the two probes anywhere along that line it should not show any voltage if a good wire without problems. Same thing with the two probes on a known ground wire, it shouldn't show any voltage when probes are placed on both ends of that ground nor anywhere in between. However, a wire that has a problem will show some amount of voltage since there is a leak along the line somewhere. I think this principle can help you locate a leak somewhere where as using an OHM meter mode can be confusing when there are sensors and other components hooked up. You have to be careful using OHMs because it can be very confusing and make you think a problem exists. You are not concerned with resistance so much, but finding leaks in the system is an important aspect in order to find shorted circuits. Hoping someone else can add to this because if you do find voltage running thru a wire that shouldn't have any voltage, I think there is a way to test, by moving the probs along that wire, exactly where the problem or leak exists. Just remember with both probes on the same wire, not same circuit, but again the same wire, there should be no voltage if a good wire exists with no leaks. I learned this from Dripley when he blew off every feather trying to do electrical. We have a picture floating around somewhere when that happened.

I am sorry for getting off topic. You obviously have real trouble with your truck. You know a while back guys were talking about a hot headlight switch problem. Hot enough to melt wire insulation and even the switch itself, they were rewiring with a relay to let the switch trigger the power to the lights direct off the battery instead of thru the switch. I wonder if the trouble with your headlites is related in some way. The big question is where is this short to ground causing the ECM to burn out. It can be difficult to isolate. However, something I read awhile back.....that no voltage should show on your volt meter with both probes on the same wire. Weather a positive or a negative wire makes no difference, a good circuit will show no voltage if no leaks to ground and visa versa. A wire that has a problem showing a leak can therefore be isolated in this way. Im probably not helping as much as I would like.... please don't give up posting due to my getting off topic, Thank you, the7t7

I promise not to drill your house

Thanks dripley for catching that. I don't think sometimes in my desire to help someone. It's obvious its under pressure not vacuum because of what the turbo does.

Okay, while on your creeper (not talking about dripley) look at the intake boot that goes under the drivers battery. There is a small area where part of the sharp edge of the fender can rub a hole in the boot. Many of us have had to take pliers and fold the sharp edge away from rubbing. It is possible the intake suction can pull enough to open a small hole, but when checking by hand, engine off, it may only feel like a soft spot in the boot. Look for any intake leaks by doing an intake vacuum pressure test.

After a run place your hand near the wheel hubs to see if excess heat. You should be able to feel they are only warm not cookin hot. I do this often on long runs. Also in the morning I place the truck in neutral and let it roll too see if all calipers are unstuck. My driveway is slight slope and if it will roll slow I'm good to go. Map sensor comes to mind as well as intake boots and clamps. I think a muddy/ dirty intercooler will also cause poor mileage. I changed differential oils and noted an increase in mileage on a long haul. At a hundred thousand mostly hauling heavy all the time the rear pumpkin oil was pretty dark. I noticed a big difference after changing it.

I can only guess as to what to look at. Check all fours for any leaks, after a run make sure none of the wheels near the center are excessively hot from a stuck on brake caliper. Check fluid level. Other than that I cannot remember if the brakes on a second gen has vacuum assist brakes. If so, check the vacuum lines and clamps for leaks or deterioration and cracks. Hoping others will jump in with more than I can offer. Be careful out there.....

I would have to say, like an electrical engineer once said, that a lot about circuitry is proprietary information to protect a companies interests. You would think a good rebuilder though, would give some helpful tips for protecting the ECM. Perhaps another way of approach would be to ask, what are the ways a person could destroy an ECM if they actually wanted. It might help us to understand what circumstances arise that we need to be watchful of in our maintaining our trucks. Dieselfuture has armor plate around his ECM