CUMMINSDIESELPWR

UPDATE the head is off and was a clean pull. The head is perfectly fine, head gasket was in great shape (no penetrations). I found #6 to be only cracked at appx 10 o'clock if you were looking at it from the front. The bore is scuffed but not gouged and a heavy hone should clean it up. i will still measure the bore before i purchase pistons and that will determine if the block needs to come out. I am hoping i can just hone it and it will be fine, i felt all the way around and there are no light or heavy gouges, just surface burnishing. It looks like when i realized i was pushing it too hard i backed off just in time before i had total meltdown and a effed up bore. I will take pics of the piston and bore tomorrow once i pull it out. If i can replace with a stocker i am going to order the ceramic coated stock size pistons with rings and wrist pins and have a whole new set ready to fire up. Plus gaskets water pump while it out and a couple sensors that are not wanting to come out (stripped cam sensor bolt...) So with that, where are good places to purchase new piston kits and which head gasket should i go with? again thank you all for your assistance in my screw up.

as he sits right now

ok so i got the injectors out, no visible signs of issue. I took all the front guts off to get to the engine, all that is left is the turbo/exhaust manifold and fan. the head will be off tomorrow afternoon. I am expecting cracked/melted piston bore will be fouled (hope i can hone it clean) i will end up putting some ceramic coated stock pistons (or oversize dependent if bores need oversized) new rings and wrist pins. new gaskets too i will still check the bottom end by dropping the pan and inspecting the rod ends for ANY play at all, also inspect the oil for any brass when its time to order parts after i assess the repair, i will ping the forum for best MFG's of parts and gaskets. I will be replacing the head studs with stockers as im not putting stupid power out of this and keep it below 30psi

check hoses too, one could have sprung a leak or come off?

here is a short vid just for audio, cold start and you can barely hear the knock but then at 8sec it goes, heard better with headphones on. its a subtle ping then lights to a bang ping . . . ping ping . . . . . ping bang bang bang bang bang and so on... i believe its #4 and it doesnt light up immediately like the others but when it does its noisy. Video.MOV

starting to investigate and teardown the engine today yaaay

ive had my rig downhill steeper than that with no issue. hope you get it sorted out

or just rig the clutch switch so you dont have to hold it down while starting

called it lol

pay for quality or pay for new turbo.

oh ok

broken flax plate?

lmao

ahh the ole gas-axe

yep a brass drift and a BFH will knock em out easy. takes 5 minutes to replace a ujoint once you get everything ready and off the truck

when mine went out, it actually walked its way out of the housing and i was feeling a hard bang when i went on or off throttle. hopped under and it was seized. limped it home and fixed it next day.

when you replace it, take it where they have a heavy duty press as mine almost stalled a 12T press when taking the bearing off. they almost cut it off. i have a write up on how to replace it all in the article section. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/28-transmission-systems/244-driveshaft-center-carrier-bearing

id be leery of a truck that low mileage and owner wanting to trade. those CR injectors are $600 each and hopefully his isnt going out and he aint telling. keep your reliable rig.

5/8" winch plate gusseted with 1/2' angle, boxed with 1/4" 2x4 welded to frame and 2" DOM tube for mine. yaaaay

i broke a half inch drive and a press pulling mine out... not fun. having the right cups for the job and a press that could handle it would have worked better for me but i got it done with a lot of sweat

probably regretting the emissions crap that it comes with...

man am i happy my 2500 is paid off and mine outright! now to fix him...

the alternator will only put out a maximum of X amps at ~14vdc output, the current load/draw for grid heaters comes from the dual batteries, otherwise the alternator would work very very hard and have a short life. so yes a filter can be made to match the maximum current output of the alternator or even a bit more as it wont be exceeded. (make sense?)

couldnt one place a secondary component on the output of the alternator so it covers everything? still checking for ac noice between the secondary diode and the alternator, gives a second layer of protection so you have a chance to catch a failing alternator before it destroys components..

so my theory is, the transistor is a switch of higher voltage via a low voltage input signal. whatever the load is being put through the high side of the transistor is either too great or the ability of heat dissipation is too small. Remember the thermal load on this little guy is wafer thin stuck on a big block of HOT metal, the heat generated has nowhere to go except in its small thermal footprint and "poof"... Or there are voltage surges spiking after time that finally put it 6' under. or an AC voltage erroneously hits and poof... or gremlins...?