dennhop

Nope. IIRC, hydroboost started in 97. I've thought about swapping out to it..I think all I need is a different powersteering pump, and the booster, and I"ve got everything else to swap, but it's a lot of work, and I really don't have the time or money to do it right now.

I'm loving the new steering, but I honestly can't say what part fixed the issue...my PS fluid came out dark brown, and I've known for a while it was bad, just was trying to replace everything at once. It definitely improved the steering-it's a ton easier to turn, and with the new gearbox, it tightened everything up significantly. What used to take me 4-6 inches of wheel turn to stay straight on the road, now takes an inch or so, and I find myself oversteering a lot, until I can get used to the truck handling like a car again! The vacuum issues with my brakes has definitely gotten better, but I think my issue now is my idle is too low...unfortunantly, until I figure out whats wrong with my CPS, I'm going to have a hard time adjusting it, as my tach isn't working yet. That being said, between the new balljoints, steering brace, and all new steering components, it drives like a new truck! Now I just need to redo the back brakes, which I'm not looking forward too, and get the trailer plugs wired back up-I've been putting that off consistently!

I'm tracking now!

I'll have to do some more fine tuning on the drag link, but I got it a bit better...went a little too far to the left, so I'll have to bring it back, but it's pouring outside, and the truck doesn't fit all the way into the garage, so that will wait for a different day! RD, I'm currently running the EMS Offroad manual lockouts, so that's not an issue anymore...I was more hoping I could throw a 2001/02 outer knuckle on, so I can run my brakes in front of the hub, as opposed to behind-that way, next time I do this, I can slide the rotor off, and then unbolt the hubs from the knuckle and remove them and the axles as one assembly, without having to take them apart.

So its been busy this weekend...ball joints Friday and Saturday. First time I've ever done them, wasn't horrible once I figured it out, but having to take the hubs apart to get to them was a PITA!!!! I want to know if a 2001 outer knuckle will fit on a 96 axle....Then, the Redhead steering box showed up on Saturday. I really didn't want to jump right back into it after dealing with ball joints for about 15 hours total, Friday and Saturday, but since losing my brakes and steering due to vacuum has become a daily occurrence, I dove into it today. Replaced the steering gearbox, rebuilt the vacuum pump (twice, since I put a seal in wrong the first time, replaced the lower steering pump, and added the Dodge steering brace. I also, while driving in the top bolt on the gearbox with the impact, ran the tip of the bolt into the fitting on my low pressure line...which was pinched between the bolt and the gearbox.:banghead: luckily, Advanced had a low pressure line with the right sized fitting...don't know what vehicle it was supposed to go to, bit I can tell you it wasn't for a 96 Dodge Ram 3500! So, now the steering is tight, super responsive-I'm gonna have to get used to driving a truck that actually steers when I turn the wheel! That all being said, my steering wheel is still off to the right...and its bugging the crap out of me! What's the best way to adjust that? Drag link, or other?

Well, after a little test drive today, with the DP gauge running, on a WOT pull, I got 55 psi on overall boost, 20 psi on the primary (atmospheric) and 60 psi drive pressure...pretty close to a 1:1 ratio. Only problem is my secondary still needs to spool faster. I'm going to have to go with a boost elbow or something.

Sorry, didn't have auto notification on! Let me check mine, and see if I have it...if I do, I'll take some pics, and if you like it, I'll sell it cheap. - - - Updated - - - Still forgot to turn notifications on....

I've had to replace several of those, and never had to shim any of them. And like said above, you can buy just the cable itself

Thanks guys! I gotta admit, it's getting difficult to monitor all the gauges Got the JGS drive pressure filter in today, and I ordered the metal line kit for it, since I don't have time to run around town and source all the parts myself. Installed, and works perfectly! Drive pressure guage is hooked up and functioning now, so all my gauges are done! I have zero plans of adding any more gauges to the mix-I don't think I could even begin to try and read any more if I wanted too... - - - Updated - - - Some slightly better pics.. It's not the best sanding job, and I could have spent more time doing it, but I needed the pod back in, so I left it at that...someone with a bit more experience and time with fiberglassing and filling could probably make it a lot more seamless than I did... The switch on the panel, controlling my fog lights... Manifold tapped for my drive pressure gauge... Pay no attention to the slew of wires in the engine bay! I'm not exactly known for my clean wiring jobs on my own vehicles...on someone elses, I'd make sure it looked like factory...on mine, eh, whatever... Oh, yeah, that's right, the stainless steel line coming off the manifold to the drive pressure filter. JGS Drive pressure filter. It has a tire valve on the top, with a turn valve on the bottom, that lets you blow it out periodically...also, the small cylinder is retained by a snap ring, so you can take it apart and clean it out also. It comes with two ports, so you could run a drive pressure gauge as well as a regulator/blowoff valve, but since I don't need the second port, I just put an old 1/8th NPT plug I had sitting around in it. You can just barely see the petcock valve on the bottom...And the front line for my dual feed. Top of filter, with the valve stem cover removed. Another view of the Drive Pressure gauge..

Wasn't too bad. Since the three gauges were isspro ev2's they had a wiring harness that I tied into all three gauges, so there were only a few loose ones. The isspro drive pressure gauge isn't wired yet because I still need to get it setup first, but it only took about 15 minutes or so. The dp gauge is a bit off to the side, but from my normal vantage point driving I can still see it. And really I'm not too worried about it because once I get everything tuned, its not a constant monitor gauge either.

LMAO! I like it! I'm stealing that one! Just another update, all I need is the paint to dry, and I can put it back in! Sprayed it down with a rattle can herculiner, so it would flex better, and hold a little bit more texture-that's the idea, anyway! I'm not spraying the inside, I could care less how that looks, since no one's ever going to see it but me! The bottom pod sprayed...not the best picture, but it melded together fairly well, considering I've never fiberglassed a thing before in my life! Top one...Yes, it looks really funny from this angle, but that's the same angle I had it at before I actually fiberglassed it to the pod. From inside the truck, the angle's really not that bad...same angle as the first pic I took of it, just a little less material now. Hoping the paint will dry by this evening enough to put it all back together...the wife really needs the Jeep back; been driving it for the past two days now with my gauges and wires hanging all over the truck right now!

A few more pics as it stands right now....note to self...either use actual fiberglassing epoxy or switch to a 5 minute epoxy...the 5 minute epoxy allowed me more time to lay the fiberglass and to smooth it out before hardening... Top pod redone Overall pod.... Bottom one mostly sanded.... Inside of pod. I ground it out so the hole matched up with the outline of the pod itself...

It is, but after a lot of research, it seems to be the best one out there, to filter out both the soot and the moisture. Everything I've read is that with all the other filters, it seems to be a bit more of a pain to keep them clean, and they don't seem to catch everything. With the JGS one, I haven't heard of anyone running into issues keeping their lines clean. I don't know how often it needs to be cleaned out, bt the come with a petcock on the bottom of the filter, and an air fitting on the top, so you can hook up a air chuck to the top of the filter, and blow all the particulate matter out the bottom. - - - Updated - - - Thanks for the bigger pics! I think I will mount to the bottom of the pod, but with the setup I've got, I'm thinking I'm going to go on the other side, as it will fit a bit better...I might do some mockup tonight, and see what I"ve got going on... - - - Updated - - - I just pulled it out of the truck tonight, to modify it some more, as I've decided to mount my 5th gauge on the pod. I marked the pod in the truck, so I know it fits, and then pulled it all out to mold them together. As I marked it, and before I cut the hole out for the wires to go through... Hole cut out with a dremel, and then smoothed out with the sander wheel on the dremel. This is the second pod of the 2 gauge pod, after I've cut it to fit the area...it doesn't like up exactly right, but with how I'm planning on mounting it, I'm not too worried... 1st step, I used some 2 part 1 minute epoxy, and some fiberglass. I cut out strips of fiberglass, laid the epoxy on the plastic, and then placed the fiberglass down on the pod. If I had to do it again, I think I'd get some slower setting epoxy, as it dried up pretty quick, and if I didn't get all of it on the pod immediately, I wasted a lot of it. It's solid though, there's absolutely no give on the pod... 2nd step, I got a small tube of glazing spot putty, for metal, fiberglass, etc, and then coated the pod over the fiberglass. Once it dries out, I'll sand it down, and touch up if needed. Once that's done, I'll paint it over, and reinstall.

Just adding more real life data to the mix...My 2001, which dyno'd at 501/1026 (on a bad clutch, ujoint, and VP44) was setup as follows:Scheid 150 hp injectors, 315/75/16 BFG KM2's, Edge Comp/TST Comp, NV4500, running a 65/71/14 S300. I typically ran the Edge on 3x5, and the TST on lvl 3 for daily driving. Hand calculated, with the GPS tracking mileage and speed, I ran a long road trip from Indiana to Iowa. On the way out, I was running 55 mph, and averaged 18 mpg highway speeds. On the way back, I was running in a hurry, running 75 mph, and my mileage dropped to 15 mpg.

Can you shift into any of the other gears, other than 4 or 5? I had a similar issue a few years back, and (unfortunately) it was far more serious than just an input shaft bearing... My trans overheated, and welded the gears together, necessitating a full rebuild on the trans, as well as needing to get a new clutch. If for some reason yours is truly just an input shaft bearing, if you can pick up another input shaft, it's about a 5 minute fix...but going off of what you said about the smell, I'd be willing to bet that you have far more serious problems. The first thing I would check is to see if the trans will shift and run in any gear-1,2,3,R since you stated already that it wouldn't go in 4 or 5. If it doesn't shift into any of those and move easily, then the trans is smoked. If it does shift into those, it's possible you broke 4 or 5 somehow-which would still necessitate a full rebuild on the tranny. Hopefully someone else will chime in, with more info...I'm a little scatterbrained right now, having been up for almost 24 hours now, at work...

what kind of cupholder you looking for? the stock one, in the bottom of the dash? I may have an extra one floating around...

Ok, thanks! I'll have to look into it, and see if what I'm thinking will fit there-I'm planning on wrapping the gauge in the last port on my cut up 2 gauge pod, and I don't know if that's going to fit between the window and the bottom gauge...

As soon as I get my DP gauge installed, I can give you some numbers on what I'm seeing with my setup, since I'll have overall boost, primary boost, and DP at the exhaust manifold. To be truly consistent, I really should do a second DP gauge, off the secondary exhaust housing too, but that's more money, and to be honest, I'm not sure if I could deal with 6 gauges on my A pillar!

I got this formula off another site, but figured I'd toss it out here in case anyone else was looking at tuning either single turbos, or compounds...it's really more for balancing pressure ratios between compounds... Pressure Ratio is (atmospheric pressure + gauge pressure)\atmospheric pressureSo an example would be as follows (and I'm using my current setup as the example)Right now, my overall boost is maxing at about 55 psi, and the primary (atmospheric turbo) is maxing at 20 psi. Pressure Ratio is (atmospheric pressure + gauge pressure)\atmospheric pressure, then my two pressure ratios are as follows:(14.7+55)\14.7=4.74 overall Pressure Ratio(14.7+20)\14.7=2.36 Primary Pressure Ratio (PR)Then to reverse engineer the pressure ratio and boost of the secondary:overall PR\Primary PR=Secondary PR4.74/2.36=2.01 Secondary PR.then, reverse the original formula, so 2.01*14.7-14.7= 15 psi at the secondary. What this tells me is that with my current setup, my atmospheric (primary) charger is working harder than the secondary, which means I need my secondary to hold the wastegate closed longer, in order to get the secondary to spool more. Also you can see, the pressure ratios aren't quite matched up, which also shows the imbalance between the two, and the fact that my secondary is acting more as an airflow blockage, than anything else. (I really need to get my drive pressure gauge hooked up!)I just figured I'd toss this out there, for you guys to play with, in case anyone was curious. The atmospheric pressure is going to be different according to your location and elevation, so make sure you look it up where you do most of your driving, to get the most accurate numbers!

I did find that picture last night, at some point...from here, it looks like its just the gauge, right? not a full pod surrounding it?

Sorry, I'm trolling old threads, since I'm stuck on duty all day today- Battalion Officer Of the Day (BN OOD). Ugh...they got me good. Payday weekend, and a company that just got back from deployment. Here's hoping tonight stays calm.. (knocks on wood!)I enjoy using a gps, however I've found depending on where you're at, you may or may not have a good enough signal for it to work. In the desert in 29 Palms, I was able to rely on the gps consistently. However, here in NC, in the trees, it doesn't work consistently. In 29 Palms, I was able to also get my hands on some good, solid topo maps of the surrounding areas, so when I was hunting for coyote dens, I'd plot it out on a map, take my compass and my gps and my map, and go to town. I always cut the map sections up, so I could take them to a commercial laminator, and get them laminated. Waterproof and I could draw on them if I ever needed too. I haven't found any good maps here in NC, but the areas I hunt are pretty wooded. For the most part, if I'm going to fight my way into the brush for a good spot, I usually take some sort of marking tape with me, and tie it off or wrap it so I can find my way out in the dark if I need to. I found a roll of reflective tape at work, and that was awesome...just turned on the flashlight on the way out, and looked for the reflective tape. The one time I thought I didn't need it, I was up in my climber stand, came down, and knew it was only about a 50 yard shot to the path back to the truck...problem was, as soon as I dropped out of the tree, and started heading back, the brush was so thick that I got myself turned around... Felt pretty stupid, and didn't want to admit it to myself, so I hung out for a bit, and kept going, until I finally admitted to myself I should have hit the path by then. Once I figured that out, I decided to quit being lazy, and ran the climber back up the nearest tree, till I could clear the brush, referenced a clearance light on one of the power towers, found my azimuth, and came down. Headed the way I thought I needed to, and within a minute or two, broke through the brush, and hit the path. The biggest thing I can say is keep your cool...as long as you stay calm and start reasoning things through in your head, you'll eventually be fine. If you start to panic, and let it take over, you're screwed from there.

I kinda like this one...

First time in 3 years I haven't made it...I hate being stuck in NC right now...hoping to be back in Indy shortly!

The step bits worked fine...just make sure you actually use a good quality one, not the harbor freight variety

Just a suggestion...I don't remember which wire off the top of my head, but diesel manor has install instructions for gauges-and they show the wire that you're supposed to tap for the gauges to light up, and for them to dim with the dash lights. I know the instructions are on their website, as I've used them before. I would identify that wire (it will show a drop and rise in voltage as you adjust the dimmer switch) and trace that to the back of the cluster. If nothing else works, you can always run a tap to one of the lightbulbs on the back of the cluster itself, as it will act to complete the circuit and provide light and dim the cluster illumination.