Great work!

Auto or manual tranny? Could be trans fluid not oil

Check the control cable for sticking or frayed wire and make sure the return spring on the tranny is good. Also check for dirt, mud, snow packed in the cable area. While your under there unplug the tranny wiring and clean connectors. You might try swapping the trans relay in the PDC with one of the other ones. Did you relocate the PCM ground with the WT mod? That part of the mod is very important.

Any fault codes?

Sometimes the injection pump key gets smashed. The shaft is tapered and the key might not have aligned with the gear when installed. That causes the timing to be off a little bit.

The 4 wires that run down the back of the VP go the the injection solenoid in the center of the injector lines the lower solenoid at the bottom rear of the VP is the timing control solenoid. If any of those wires short to each other or ground out it's usually bad news for the VP. Unburned fuel causes white smoke. If fuel is leaked or sprayed into the cylinder too early or too late after the compression peak you get white smoke.

Pull the exhaust manifold off and check for oil residue in the ports. You could run it that way too and see which cylinders smoke.

Hopefully a 12 valve guru will reply. The last one I tampered with just did the modified washer thing found on Google or YouTube can't remember but it only had the 2 spring setup and worked out great no stalling or bucking. The shift point is controlled by the transmission valve body and won't have a noticeable speed difference but your engine will power thru and not start refueling at 2700 RPM.

Premium models have an amplifier built on to the back of each door speaker. The amps have to be powered. Or you can replace the speakers with normal ones.

Dirty air filter, restricted fuel supply ie fuel filter or lift pump. Watergate not closed all the way, bad turbo or clogged exhaust. MAP sensor.

I had a dump truck that would eat up alternators. I finally rigged up the switch that ran the electric lift so that it would shut off the alternator while dumping. Solved the problem.

They are actually avalanche rated. Which means the makers actually bothered to measure it. The it being how repetitive and severe the voltage spikes can be in the normally non conducting state and still the device can survive. Basically means more robust and bragging rights for the maker. Most non avalanche rated devices just have an absolute spec and thou shall not exceed it, but you may get lucky a few times.

Timing can cause rough idle and higher EGT. Did you get the right number key in the pump shaft. It also has an arrow on it too. Has to be installed correctly.

I mean the power assist is weak. It's a hydroboost type. The brake fluid gets changed regularly every time a line rust through lol.

My brakes are weak too. I'll drive it some more and change the fluid and see what happens.

Hydroboost yes. I changed the fluid 2 or 3 years ago because it was noisy in the winter.

I haven't been driving my truck for a long time, but went to the lake and the steering just seems heavy. It always was if you ask me but even worse now. Considering changing the PS pump. Anybody care to chime in? I would hate to change it and not get an improvement.

I took lots of pictures of the last one that I did. Main shaft broke. It looks like the 1-2 shift collar with the wide bevel goes to the front and the squared up end goes toward the rear.

Did you drive the truck with the 01/02 ECM? Did it run at full potential or in a default limp mode. Seems it would not like the signal from an incorrect cam gear. Anyway, Check the signal coming out of the crank sensor with a good meter or scope. It should be a 5 volt square wave while the engine is cranked. Maybe the older ECM came from a truck with a factory security system i'm not sure how those work could be it needs something from the PCM.

They changed sometime to a cam only sensor. For that you need the cam gear with the fine tooth trigger wheel on it. The older sub gen on the 99 uses a cam gear with only one notch on the back and the tooth wheel on the crank. Seem dodge was worried about run away trucks like Toyota. So the ECM and vp and APPS have a complicated system of checks and multiple shutdown methods. First the CAN bus can command it to stop. Second there is a shutdown wire VP pin 5 LT blue/red 12volts kills it 0 volts is run you can cut it and let it hang leave enough wire to reconnect later it may throw a code. Third the ECM deenergizes the fuel system relay shutting off power to the VP pin 7 red/lt green. The VP won't rev up unless the idle valve signal VP pin 4 goes to 0. When it sees that, it changes a bit in its CAN message reply back to the ECM this is a cross check if things mess up you can get a dead pedal or a complete shutdown. Make sure you have the right cam gear and sensor(s) to match the ECM.

I mean put the hose between the filter and VP. The 150 may be sucking in some air when it warms up

Those relays in the PDC can get old and finicky and don't always work when hot or cold or low voltage. Try swapping the fuel system relay with one of the other ones and see what happens. Also try running a few feet of clear hose along the windshield wipers to watch for bubbles in the fuel.

Blue wire gets 12v from PCM. The green wire 'TOGGLES' (PWM) to ground through PCM. So blue to 12v and green to solid ground equals max alternator output. Basically the blue and green each go to a insulated plastic brush holder. The brushes where out and the springs behind them can make contact with other parts of alternator internals or excessive field current overheats the regulator inside the PCM. If you use an external old school mopar regulator the case of it must be grounded. The trans relay can be bypassed too but you will hear humming under the truck with it powered up and engine off. That sound is the governor solenoid doing its job. My truck has lots of bypass and an external regulator. I also have ECM split wide open dangling by hay wire totally hacked and I rigged the vp44 with an external transistor. I also have the lift pump and grid heaters bypassed. I just refuse to buy anymore black boxes for my truck. LoL.

Remember you have oil jets that cool the pistons too could be you flushed some crud out of one and that would explain some of it.

Check grounds like IBMobile said. If you have a meter that reads frequency probe(pierce) the gray/black wire at the pcm C1(black) pin 8. Set meter for AC volts and select Hertz. It should read about 2X the RPM frequency 1000Rpm is 16.6 Rps or 16.6 Hz times 2 is about 30 Hertz at idle. It is a square wave that goes from 0 to 5volts peak. It originates in the ECM on pin 45. Another problem is the dark blue wire from pcm C3 pin 25 could be shorting out to ground usually from a bad alternator with severely worn brushes or slip rings worn through. Some folks put a small inline fuse on that wire to protect the PCM. Mopar man has some articles about it.

Try the cold water trick on the Vp next time there is a long hot crank. If it fires right up thats usually a sign of electronics on pump failing.