Baconbitsforu

Yes it will fit just fine. The napa 4509 is a par 34 bulb

Yea I saw stories where people would run duct from the front of the bumper to some kind of boat blower? Then run that to the top of the vp also have it on a timer to run after the Motor shut off

So I had seen where a member had in his sig VP Blower and Heat-sink. Does this work? I know the hardest on a vp is after shut down when the fuel stops moving and the heat of the motor hits it. Just looking at ways to save the vp.

Yea it will tell you where it goes. Each pole is numbered.

I ran to wires from the relay one to each light. I see no reason to run to relays. Its going to be running off the same power anyways. You can ground to the frame if you want. I grounded to the trailer wire ground and ran it to each light. Just how I am also I had a ton of wire. That relay should work great!.

The lights have a NAPA number Ill find it in a sec. The holders are normal par 54 rubber supports. On the relay you will want a head light relay. rated for 40 amp or more. Most auto stores have them just tell them they are for work lights. 5 or 6 bucks IIRC. - - - Updated - - - Bulbs are $15 to $18 bucks. NAPA# 4509. As for the power the trailer +12 volt will only be hot when the key is turned on. So keyed power to keep from drains and leaving the relay on with no power. Any more questions feel free to ask!

[ATTACH]4163[/ATTACH] - - - Updated - - - The pic might help but yes you will run a +12 volt to the switch as a control. That will go in to the relay as the control. When you have the switch on it feeds +12 to the relay to switch the relay over so that the 12+ from the trailer wireing will power the lights. I know the feeling I learned all this bit by bit Im good at it now.

Yes you would need a switch. One pole will go to the battery of a fuse, the other will go to the relay to trigger the relay. You need a relay because you do not want that much power going through small wires and a switch. In Mike's set up you pull power from the trailer wiring harness. That is a thick wire (not sure on gauge) but it is also switch so it will only be hot when the key is on. The point is you wire the lights to the trailer harness +12 Volts. The relay is used to turn the lights on and off. If not the lights would be on 24/7 when the key is on. Also the trailer wiring is on its own fuse and relay in the main power panel under the hood. - - - Updated - - - Check this out. The only thing I did after that post is water proof the connections. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/5309-Mopar-Man-s-Reverse-Lights!-PICS!

I also run moparmans set up it works great and is cheap.

^ Same here glad to hear your ok.

I picked up a remote for my second gen off eBay for 10 bucks. Then I went to the local pop a lock and they programmed it for 15. Dealer wanted 95 to program it.

Oh yea it is.

Yes they are 100% the guy at the tire shop thought they were new. He was sold on them!

Thanks! Sure beats the 359 I was about to pay for a bullitt one. Im only going to 400 hp on this 2gen so Ill take my saved money and get a fass. --- Update to the previous post... I did notice it said in large red letters "with OUT weight" Does it need one? Or is this a plus

Im glad I saw this thread. My problem is that the system will run cool then stop. Mostly in stop and go it will go hot. So Im guessing its from high pressure. A orifice tube and drier could be my problem? I mean when the fan blower works (got a new one on order) It will get cold but only for a bit then will run hot cold hot cold. --- Update to the previous post... Also to replace both these parts I will have to discharge my AC system. Ive seen flush kits that use shop air and flush it out. Is that a good idea or should I get a shop to take out the freon and put it back in.

You have a link for this flexplate? I need one soon when I go in to redo my TC VB and Bands.

Tires are stupid Pricey. I went ahead and got a set of Treadwrights on sale for $400. (Best deal for a broke college student like I) IICR It was a 2 year warranty on anything. They last around 60-70K. Ive had mine for 15K no problems work great and grip like crazy. Will buy again. https://treadwright.com/

Good news got to love easy fixes!

I sprayed both my bumpers, Grill and rims with the stuff. Its cheap easy to use and very smooth. Also is a semi flat black looks mean. --- Update to the previous post... But to do a whole car is stupid.

Same thing happend on my cummins. Check all the vac lines. One goes to the driver battery for the cruse. Another to the 4X4 if you have it and one more to the AC. That one will go up to the Vac T and over the motor to the pass side fire wall.

Ill look and see but from looking at it in the pic they are 100% the same. At least on the out side --- Update to the previous post... Your right! I looked it up via the internet. I just got started with honda's this is my first honda (CAR) picked it up for 500 bucks!

I went to HID's on both my Headlights and my Fog Lights. Its bright and looks great. --- Update to the previous post... Brights and fogs on. --- Update to the previous post... Back up lighting.

Thats the same motor I have in my 97' CRV

I have a garmin. I never leave home with out it! Also use it with work has over 200,000 miles on it.

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