walsey

Cranked the truck up this morning. Started fine like always. Half way between home and the shop I noticed my fuel gauge showed 0. I got to the shop shut the truck off and bumped the starter and didn't hear my lift pump running. This evening I'm gonna get a mechanical test gauge to see I its the gauge but if it ain't how do I test the pump. The gauge is a isspro ev2 0-30 electric gauge. I'm thinking its my sender but don't know.

Im running hankook mt's right now but they are 285x75x16's. I've liked them but i've only had them for a short time. I bought them used but they've held up good so far. I can't comment on the 315's personally but I have a couple buddies running cooper at's and they both really liked them. I think they got them on sale for around 800 bucks a set. I will probably go up to that size when mine wear out. As far as the leveling kit if you fit 295's without a lift or level I assume you would be able to fit 315's as well. I like a leveling kit so I went a 2.5 inch leveling kit I just need to fill some space with bigger tires. Good luck:thumbup2:

If your lift pump is still on the side of motor then you do not have a pump in the tank. The original place for the lift pump was on the motor. That turned out to be a bad place so dodge tried to right a wrong by placing the pump in the tank which most would say was just as bad. So there's not two pumps just one either on the motor or in the tank. As for aftermarket lp I would stay away from factory type replacement. I looked at those to try to save money but after research and advice on here I spent a little more on a quality lp. Airdog, fass, raptor. I chose the airdog 100 because like you I don't plan on any mods and the 100 is enough for me. Also if you do get the AD 100 you don't have to drop the tank to install it. No matter what you chose you don't want your fuel psi drops below 10 but it's also better to be over 14 psi to keep the overflow open on the vp44 to help keep it cool. mop atman and others will chime in to give you great feedback. Congrats on the purchase you will love it.

The back quarter panel of my truck is stained black from the smoke. It was that way when I bought it. I don't mind it being like that in between washing but when I do wash it I would like for it to scrub off. Didn't know if there was a special product out there that would take it off without hurting the paint. If I can get it off I have thought of probably putting a turn down on it and not worry about it again. Thanks

Thanks! I missed that when I looked a geno's the other day.

That's exactly what I have. Turn signals are perfect. I wonder if sport trucks are even worse seeing as how I have the four bulb set up. Im gonna check all the headlights out that were mentioned and try to find the best one. Time to go headlight hunting!!

I am looking for exact oe headlights. I don't really care for "euro" lights and projectors. I just like the stock look. My truck is actually a sport so I have the quad bulb setup already but the headlight housing is bad (fogging, yellow). Found those oe headlights at lmc which say they are stock factory replacements so should be the same as what I got, I just don't know about the quality. Hadn't called the dealer yet but I might not wanna know how much theirs are.

Was looking online to find some oem replacement headlights and the only ones I've found are from lmc. I've also found some on eBay but after searching I found out they are pretty much junk. Has anymore had experience with these before I pull the trigger on them. Thanks

Glad everyone's ok. I haven't done it personally but I've seen people running very similar to what you described. Don't know how long they ran it though. I do know I asked the tire shop I deal with in town a.year or two ago the that question out of curosity and they told me nothing would be hurt. I'm sure if you were cruising around town you'd be fine but pulling a fifth wheel on a 1000 mile trip . Sorry I couldn't be more helpful

I agree. That's what I was trying to say. Not real good with words I was just using the grease gun hose as a point of reference between his set up and the way mine used to be. I only used the grease gun hose to connect the banjo/snubber bolt and the sender together. I wasn't using it for any added benefits.

Is your gauge electric or mechanical? I have an Isspro EV2 electric gauge that started out being the exact same set up with the snubber/banjo bolt from tork teck except with a grease gun hose and I expierenced needle bounce pretty bad so I know the sender was getting beat up bad. I only run that set up for two days and changed it. IMO, I dont think its a good set up. I would go with something like Mike's setup or maybe top of fuel canister but I wouldn't waste my time putting it there. Just too close too the vp to stop the "hammering effect" from the vp without a needle vavle. You'll be replacing that bolt, sender, or the gauge long before you want too.

Sorry hadn't been on over the weekend worked a lot. My numbers were slightly less today than what I posted earlier. It was probably 8-10* cooler than normal. I do think I will be moving it up to Pre-turbo to get an accurate reading.

Was doing some research yesterday evening as I try to do on these trucks and realized that I put my EGT probe in the wrong spot. I installed it post turbo and from what I read last night they need to pre turbo to get an accurate reading. I researched this before I order my gauges as I've done before and I have no idea how I missed it. I know some can go post turbo but I want an accurate reading. I don't think I have gotten to hot seeing as how I only touch 1000* once before (hadn't towed heavy with it yet and I don't have a programmer.) I read somewhere that running it post turbo you lose about 300* on your gauge. If that's true I prolly wont be in a rush to change it but if it aint I need to do it pretty quickly. Normally I run about 300*-400* idle and riding at 60 mph may 600*-700*.

I think I have the same problem that wagntagn has a couple post below. I think my I.O.D. fuse is blown but I can't figure out how to get the plastic protector off the fuse to replace it. - - - Updated - - - Nevermind. I finally got that booger off. Problem fixed.

Mine went out day before yesterday and couldn't figure it out. How do you get the black cover off that is over the fuse.

Hope this helps http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/2033-Turbo-Cap-Boost-leak-tester

Do the needle valve. I bought one and actually tapped the injection pump with it and I had needle bounce and I'm sure I was getting the hammer effects. I know your tapping into the fuel canister so it might be different but I would use the needle valve.

Everything looked normal to me no programmers or boxes. I guess with all the injector and programmer talk im doing I prolly should be saving up for a upgraded clutch.

Ok guys I'll check those out after work. I don't know much about programmers, chips, etc.... My cousin has a 2001 and went to plug up a programmer up and it messed something up on the truck because either a programmer was already on the truck or it messed up the programmer. Anyways, my smoke is closer to a haze rather than thick but i do think it might be more than the average. Mine smokes more than my cousin's. I might need to pull my injectors to make sure they are stock before I go buying new ones. Trucks running great though and just looking for some more mpg's. Like I said just had me thinking out loud.

Hey guys, was on the computer last night doing some research on possibly getting some RV275's for some better mpg and ran across a thread that has got me thinking. I bought my truck being told it was stock and I've only done to it what's in my sig. My question is how much smoke does a stock cummins make. I know every truck is different but my truck sends a puff of black smoke out everytime it cranks and smokes through every gear. I'm not blacking out the road by any means but it is noticable. How would I check to see if there is a programmer on my truck without having the programmer. Oh and what does everyone think about the RV275's. I've read they are the best bang for your buck but is it a noticable increase in hp and mpg and maybe they will clean up the smoke.

Are they the heated power oem replacement for $93? I paid $230 for my set because I needed brackets. You having manual mirrors already means you have brackets. I think the AM Autoparts heated power are $200 so I would look and definatly make sure those are the same mirrors. As for the AM Autoparts mirrors, they have worked great for me. I've had them a several months now with no problems. When I was looking online trying to decide which mirrors to go with I narrowed it down to Kool Vue and AM. I read more bad reviews on the Kool Vue than on the other so I went with AM.

Yeah I think thats a good price but one question. Are they polished aluminum or the chrome clad? That made a difference to me may not to you. I was/am sorta looking for 3rd gen wheels and any set worth buying I found was around $400 or better and I'm talking 2006-2007 wheels. Little different wheel than the ones your looking at but you get the picture. If you want em I would ****** em up.

Yea I'm sure if you had a bulletproof formula to make the vp last a while you would be a very very popular man. Maybe they changed mine out maybe they didnt doesnt really matter now its running great now so I will cross that bridge when I get there. Back to my original question, what could/should be my next upgrade. Clutch, intake manifold, injectors.......Even though I don't really want to do any power mods I would consider doing injectors right now. I dont really want to put a programmer on there anytime soon but I don't know much about injectors. Maybe some 50 or 75 hp?????? --- Update to the previous post... I've mainly being looking at bosch rv275's for injectors. I think they are 40 hp

Yea looks exactly like that. Truck is running great no complaints I just figured it was the original after reading that and being that I assume the truck never had a gauge or aftermarket lp (wasn't even the updated in take pump it was still on the block) that it has 119,000 miles of abuse that the vp could have gotten might not be good for me but you on your 3rd one makes me feel better. Reckin how you could tell if it is or not. --- Update to the previous post... Doesn't make me happy your on your 3rd pump its you still have the sticker. I read that back to myself and I didnt word that the way I had it in my head. lol

Got my 5" exhaust in from RSD yesterday and got it on today. Very very pleased so far with the sound and price. $260 to my front door aint bad for a 5" exhaust. With that being said, what some options for me to do next as far as reliability is concerned. Maybe upgrading the clutch just in case I get a wild hair and add some power mods down the road. One maybe not so good thing I found out the other day as I was checking older threads on here the other day, I ran across an old thread on how to tell if you vp44 was stock or not and it said if your vp has a void sticker on it that it was the original. Well guess what, mine has a big ole yellow sticker that says void on it so maybe I need to be saving my money for the "what if" instead of